"no gunsmithing" mount or drill/tap? PICS now!

canadian hunter312

canadian hunter312

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im thinking i should get my enfield drilled and tapped rather than getting one of those mounts that requires "no gunsmithing". how strong could a mount be that isnt drilled and tapped?

if i decide to get it drilled and tapped, what bases would i need? its a 1944 no1 mk3.

thanks

PS. if you have any input on the mounts that reuire no gunsmithing make sure you post it.
 
If the rifle is still in full military configuration, drilling and tapping will drop the value by half. If you insist on a scoped No. 4, buy a previously bubba'd rifle and check the headspace before you do anything else.
Most "no gunsmithing" mounts require removing the rear sight completely. Damage the scope or mount while hunting and you get to go home.
 
Properly installed, they are stable. Although they are called no gunsmithing mounts, they occasionally require some mount-smithing on the No1 MkIIIsince the side profile varies somewhat. The rear sight remains in place.
The No4MkI mount replaces the rear sight so there is no fitting issue there. You just have to be careful not to lose the E-clips before they are installed.
My experience is mostly with the B-Square no-gunsmithing mounts so what I have written here deals exclusively with the B-Square product.
 
B-Square mounts

I have installed several B-Square no machining mounts on No 4s and No 5s (also a No 8 .22) with very good success. In some cases I have had to modify the mount slightly to fit the receiver, but since it is made of aluminum that has never been too difficult. Accuracy has always been fine. While the mount may seem expensive, keep in mind that you save the value of your rifle, you can use this mount on other No 4 series rifles later on, and you won't earn the nickname "Bubba".
 
I'm assuming that its a lithgow or ishy manufacture No1 MkIII so advise on the No4 mounts is not much use.

I would hesitate drilling a reciever simply because once its done its irreversable. And if its a full wood rifle you will make me cry :(

Perhaps you could trade for an allready drilled reciever or buy another rifle that is drilled.

Marstar has advertized no drill mounts as well for the No1 rifles that you might want to look at. One that uses the ejector screw and safety screw as attachment points would be the best.

Do you have pictures of the rifle and reciever.
 
i sent marstar an email asking how theirs attaches to the gun but they havent replied in a few days. ive seen some that use set screws or clamp on and i dont think they will be good for anything but a headache.

if there is a mount that uses the safety screw as well as the screw on the side of the reciever than that is what i want because it will be sturdy.

thanks for any help guys.

enfield1.jpg

enfield2.jpg

enfield3.jpg
 
i might not "bubba" the gun because i dont know how well i can shoot it yet with the sights. ive had it for 3 years i think and i havent even taken it to the range:( i know, i deserve to get punched in the face :redface: ....

the b-square mounts seem to place the scope pretty darn high doesnt it?
 
SurplusRifle.com has information on a mount that replaces the rear sight block o n the smle, but this requires that you get a scout scope or maybe any old pistol scope. Another option is getting a MOJO peep sight for it, this replaces the usual smle rear sight. Bubba is stomping and punching himself.
 
All the whinging aside, its your rifle. Your options are few. The Weaver TO-1, and then use 22 style rings, I would suggest Milletts, OR, get a Parker Hale side mount. I regret to say I gave away all my PH scope base charts, so I don't remember which it is. They had two though, one that was a top mount, and one that is a side mount.
Wholesale sports (IIRC) used to stock the Parker Hale mounts, but I am not sure if they still have any. You could call and ask.

The reality is the drilled and tapped are stronger, but look like crap (IMHO). And the TO-1 is not something I would recommend...sorry. I have drilled and installed alot of them, and the PHs, and to me the PHs were always the better. The TO-1s were something I used only when a customer chose them.

I have used B-square and SKs no drill ones, they can be ok, you can also modify them a bit, and get ok results on a #4mk1, but I see your using a #1mk3.
 
Dunno if this is relevant but I had an sk mount on my #4 and it just seemed to move around and was too high anyway. Drilled her out for the angle iron mount a la Steve Redgewell and yay tres happy. As much as I like it it will never match a new Savage for accuracy but it is sorta cool.
 
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