No more Stevens 200 rifles?

It takes five minutes to adjust the factory adjustable trigger on a Stevens 200. They go down to about 3.5 lbs, safely.

I can't imagine selling a rifle because I didn't want to put 5 minutes into adjusting an adjustable trigger....

I can't imagine having a rifle with a crappy trigger and not doing something about it. THat's why I adjusted my Stevens trigger until there was a relatively good pull. Just a hitch of grit in it, unfortunately, btu it shoots sub MOA all day, every day, with handloaded 180 NPTs.
 
Tell me what factory adjustment there is on it? According to the net, there is no adjustment on the 200. As well, why was there no mention in the manual of being able to adjust the trigger. With my Savage 22 mag it tells you how to adjust the trigger in the manual. However, we did look at the triggers on both and there was one screw there you could turn out somewhat. It made pretty much no difference on either gun. Someone said turning it much further would risk the gun firing when the bolt was closed.

Google is your friend.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=stev...fe=images&gfe_rd=cr&ei=Pb1CU5KvGuuM8Qftx4CABw
 
My only problem with Stevens 200 in 270 was that you needed a forklift to lift the bolt handle after firing.
You could not fire a shot and then cycle the bolt to load another round while keeping the rifle shouldered. Had to take it off my shoulder, push hard against my belly smack the bolt with my palm from below. This was a terrible "follow up" shot type of gun. Still very accurate and I miss it....sometimes.....
 
There was obviously something amiss with that chamber. I have owned and shot every caliber they were available in, except 308 Win, and never had that problem.

Wonder if perhaps there was some light rust in the chamber? I had that situation in a SAKO, of all things. It was a 222, and drove me nuts. I finally polished up a case until it literally sparkled after loading it. After shooting it, the case barely extracted, and you could see the tiny indentations on the surface of the brass. Took and old bronze brush, wrapped it with 000 steel wool, soaked it with some kind of light oil, and went after the chamber.

The first pass the wool came out filthy red. Swabbed the chamber clean with a patch, and went at it again with fresh steel wool. Two more times and the wool came out clean. Never had a problem extracting again!

Supercub on here had a similar problem, and it was also light rust in the chamber.

Ted
 
there was no rust in the chamber. It chambered rounds and pulled them out easily enough but I suppose the spring for the cocking mechanism must have been stiff hence the hard lifting.
 
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