No1 Mk3 scope and mount systems - Aussie/brit options?

H Wally

H Wally

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I'm thinking about getting another No1 Mk3. It has already been drilled and tapped.

Because of that, who out there can recommend a mounting system for a scope on an enfield? - I know the S&K system is supposedly the best no gunsmithing solution, but wondering about others.

On that topic, I've seen one or two pics of enfields with scopes mounted on them, one from WW1 and the other from Korea I believe, what's the deal there? Is it possible to do at least a semi correct repro job?

Anyone have pics that'd show what I'm looking for?

Edit - here's a youtube vid of what I'm thinking of:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8u67E5KTDM

More info on aussie snipers- http://enfieldrifles.profusehost.net/ri17.htm

http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/Tikirocker/RIFLES/?action=view&current=LithgowMuseum3.jpg

http://enfieldrifles.profusehost.net/ri17_files/image010.jpg

Front view of the see through:
http://photos.imageevent.com/badger...sie high mount-front scope mount _Medium_.jpg
 
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Where is it drilled and tapped on the rifle?
The mounts in the video are very high. Your head wouldn't be placed right.
B-Square makes a mount. Attaches via the ejector screw and a clamp. Most of the 'no gunsmithing' mounts aren't very solid.
 
The most common drill and tap mounts used recently on SMLE rifles are the Weaver and the Parker Hale. The Williams is another possibility. These are not particularly like any of the original sniper rifles, but all are quite usable for mounting a scope.
 
H Wally, I have bought one of the S&K bases, its not really good, for one thing, you can't use the irons after you put it on there, and I heard it's solid, but I am not convinced, I have an XS scout scope base for my #1 MK III* when I get my arse in gear it's going to be put on this rifle (bubba, clean metalwork), reason? - I like this rifle as I'm left handed and can work the bolt quite rapidly, it would help for low light hunting, and I might be able to get a smith to put some sort of open sight on the rail, as a peep sight I think would get in the way of my hand operating the bolt, and I could use chargers (low priority)

- Heres a crazy idea I thought up while thinking what would be a good scope base for the SMLE #1 MK III*, 1: it would have a forward base on the receiver ring area, * got to stay away from the serial #* or maybe 2: a cylindrical portion affixed to the knox-form area of the barrel, which would accept the forward weaver base. 2: an angle piece would affix to the right rear of the reciever, where it's flat and * I am supposing, is 'plumb' and at right angles to the sight plane; the angle piece would be made such that the bolt head would just clear the bottom of the angle piece, when you needed to remove it. The 2nd weaver base would be affixed to this portion, or; you could just affix a picatinny rail to the fore and aft 'bases' as the SMLE has a detachable magazine, this would not be an issue. The only drawback to this method is it might be too high to allow the iron sights to be used, so some modifications might be have to be made to the iron sights to allow their use when the scope was removed, to my mind it would not make sense to have an SMLE with a scope/flimsy base/not able to use the irons when the scope is removed, I think the Australian Snipers allowed iron sight usage with the scope removed. There must be a good reason there are lots of SMLE's around drilled & tapped for the Weaver TO-1 bases and the bases are not with the rifle. - Another option would be a cantilever set up, you could use something like this and have it rigged up such that the cantilever and scope could be removed allowing use of the iron sights. . . the XS base is 6" long, you would have to hack 2" or so of it off the front to allow the issue rear sight to remain on the gun. Best regards Tony. :)

whoa, here's another crazy idea, get a solid dovetail on the side of the reciever and affix a quick detachable base of some sort to it, kinda sorta like a POSP scope in general concept, this would be a good one, but how to do it. . .
 
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