No4 repair?

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I seek wisdom.

I've just received a No4, and it looks to have some damage. I'm wondering how repairable it is.

A section is missing from the track along which the bolt head travels. In addition to the normal bolt-head-sized bit.

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This allows the bolt head to skip out fairly regularly.

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Anyone seen this before? And if so, how did you repair it?
 
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I had one the same way. The only way to fix it properly was to replace the receiver. That's what I did. It was a nicely sported hunting rifle. I don't know if a mil surp collectable owner would go this way.

Darryl
 
We need another photo angled more to the inside of the track. You will see the rail where the bolt head slides in. If it is chipped away larger than the machined opening then, yes, you have a problem.
There are a couple of repairs that can be done but it is not a simple thing.
Where are you located?
 
We need another photo angled more to the inside of the track. You will see the rail where the bolt head slides in. If it is chipped away larger than the machined opening then, yes, you have a problem.
There are a couple of repairs that can be done but it is not a simple thing.
Where are you located?

There is the normal, healthy, bolt-head sized opening in the track.

There is also an additional, rough area where the lip of the track has been chipped away. The bolt-head is sitting up in it in the second photo.

Calgary.
 
That was the criticism of the Mk. I* rifle vs the Mk. I.
If the rail is damaged, repairs are difficult. Once the bolt head is jumping out of the track, the receiver is unserviceable.
 
That was the criticism of the Mk. I* rifle vs the Mk. I.
If the rail is damaged, repairs are difficult. Once the bolt head is jumping out of the track, the receiver is unserviceable.

Mostly.. Yes. I have repaired a few by tig welding and rebuilding the track. Takes a bit of finness and patience. But, not worth it if you are paying someone.
If the track is only slightly chipped, you can bevel the groove in the bolt head just a bit. This is a last ditch try. It only works sometimes.
Sad thing is that there aren't many gunsmiths that work on Lee Enfields anymore. If you have another receiver, you have to pay more than it is worth to get it changed out. What you have now is probably a parts rifle.
 
When the No4 MkI* was in the service this would have resulted in the receiver being scrapped. It was the weak point of this model.
 
Your bolt guide rail is worn or damaged causing the bolt head to jump out of position. The most economic repair is to replace the receiver. Alternately it can be tig welded and machined to size. Finding somebody to do later is going to be difficult. A log shot is to clean up the rail with a honing stone to remove the roughness and then replace the bolt head with a new one...done this a couple times and got lucky. Ron
 
This thread is why I will never have another MK1* Enfield.

To the OP, good luck trying to do anything with it. The best you can do is blend and smooth with a jewellers file followed by some emery cloth. This is what I did on the last Savage I had.

Dave
 
If it's a full wood No4 mk1*, I'd be interested in buying it for the parts...looking for wood for my No4 mk1*...non-rear band lower wood model (rear lower wood with,through bolt model) :). PM me if your interested.
Cheers
Brian
 
That was the criticism of the Mk. I* rifle vs the Mk. I.
If the rail is damaged, repairs are difficult. Once the bolt head is jumping out of the track, the receiver is unserviceable.

Tiriaq, what are your thoughts about trying it with another bolt?
 
Tiriaq, what are your thoughts about trying it with another bolt?

I'm not the aforementioned moderator but I've run into this twice. A tighter fitting bolt (assuming it headspaces) may keep the bolt head from clocking out of position if you cycle carefully but it doesn't make the problem go away. I remember another member mentioning using a heavy grease on the threads to keep the bolt head from skipping out of position but his gun was only missing a very small chip out of the rail and it didn't always work.

Both of my damaged rifles ended up as parts donors, one barrelled action becoming a very attractive fire poker ;)
 
Thank you all for your input.

Weld repairs to a stressed portion of the receiver (or barrel) are a non-starter for me (for a bolt action, at least) because it inevitably ruins the heat treatment (and strength) in the surrounding area. My face is ugly enough already without snuggling it up to a compromised 50ksi pressure vessel.

I will keep looking for a No4, but now know to stick to MkI's unless the bolt rail is pristine.
 
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