No4Mk1* hard to cycle

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johnrw

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So I bought a Savage No4 MK1* sporter here from another CGN'r .... intending to de-sporterize it as I already had some No4 furniture.

I am finding that it cycles OK when empty, but as soon as I try to cycle with a dummy round or an empty case it is very stiff to move the bolt.

I did some searching on the google and I see a lot of issues with the bolt jumping out of the rail - but this one doesn`t seem to have that problem.

Any ideas on what else I can check?
 
Is it hard just at the end, when you close the bolt, or all the way as soon as the bolt head touches the rear of a round coming from the mag? And, have you tried with another mag?
 
Chambering a round isn`t too bad (although it does take more force than my other No4) It is mainly when I am pulling the round out of the chamber and ejecting that I feel it binding. I have tried with two mags and the same issue.

I just swapped bolts between the two No4`s and it seems like the problem goes away when I use a different bolt in the `binding`Mk1* - so maybe the bolt head is the issue?
 
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I did find a small burr on the bolthead and gently removed that with a file.

However, there is also a small burr/nick/spot in the chamber which I could see when I finally got some better light.
 
"...very stiff to move the bolt..." Headspace issue, but like scott585 says, check the bolt head being on correctly. Have a closer look at the chamber thing too.
"...swapped bolts..." You CANNOT just change bolts without using proper headspace guages. Bolts and bolt heads are NOT drop in parts.
"...a dummy round or an empty case..." A DP round needs to be made correctly. FL resizing, load with no primer or powder then drill(and deburr) a wee hole in the case body. The hole is just so you can tell it's a DP by eye.
Empty cases have been expanded. If they were not fired out of that rifle, they'll be a bit off.
 
sunray said:
"...very stiff to move the bolt..." Headspace issue, but like scott585 says, check the bolt head being on correctly. Have a closer look at the chamber thing too.
"...swapped bolts..." You CANNOT just change bolts without using proper headspace guages. Bolts and bolt heads are NOT drop in parts.
"...a dummy round or an empty case..." A DP round needs to be made correctly. FL resizing, load with no primer or powder then drill(and deburr) a wee hole in the case body. The hole is just so you can tell it's a DP by eye.
Empty cases have been expanded. If they were not fired out of that rifle, they'll be a bit off.
Click to expand...


I'm using a set of of Okie (Go & No-Go) headspace gauges. The bolt head looks to be on correctly. It has noticeably less overtravel than the one in my other No4, not sure if that means anything.

The dummy round was made with a case that was new unfired brass and now I can see that there is a definite scratch on it once it is ejected. I'll work on smoothing out that burr in the chamber and see how that improves things.
 
johnrw said:
I'm using a set of of Okie (Go & No-Go) headspace gauges. The bolt head looks to be on correctly. It has noticeably less overtravel than the one in my other No4, not sure if that means anything.

The dummy round was made with a case that was new unfired brass and now I can see that there is a definite scratch on it once it is ejected. I'll work on smoothing out that burr in the chamber and see how that improves things.
Click to expand...

Where is the damage in the chamber? I'm guessing it's at or very close to the shoulder as most lee enfields have oversized chambers so a new piece of brass usually doesnt touch much of the chamber until it's fired.

Can you post a pic of the scratched brass?
 
I've done some polishing with some crocus cloth and a wooden dowel and that seems to have helped with the scratch. The brass just has a faint rub mark now about a half inch up from the rim.
I don't think my camera would be able to pick it up. It's still not as smooth as the other No4 that I have but I think it's getting better.
 
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