Hey everyone, i have a situation here with my Norc SKS. I screwed up the firing pin a while ago by putting it in upside down and driving the retaining pin into the bolt. This deformed the firing pin enough so that when i put it in the right way, it would sit extremely tight in the channel, no matter how clean it was. Needless to say, i was getting some slam fires. However, i fixed this by some careful filing with a fine file. The firing pin now fits perfectly and rattles nicely when in the bolt. But, i'm still getting the slamfires. I've noticed that once i fire a round (and dont get a string of shots), and let the trigger reset, a lot of the free travel is already taken up for the next shot. So, the next trigger pull requires next to no pressure. I'm guessing that sometimes, for some reason, all the travel is taken up, and this causes the strings of rounds to be fired. Is it something to do with the sear engagement? I've never even taken the trigger assembly apart as i understand that its a pain. Any suggestions, comments? Anything would be help. Thx a lot fellas!!
non-bolt related slamfire?
- Thread starter serbian
- Start date
.... I've absolutely no experience with an SKS, but the obvious cause, pretty well has to be the firing pin hanging up, even though you've filed etc. .... is a new firing pin hard to find/expensive ? .... David K.
- Location
- Surrey, BC
If the firing pin rattles in the bolt, it won't cause slamfires with milsurp ammo. It sounds like the hammer is just barely catching the sear for some reason. Disconnect bar is bent, maybe? Take the trigger group out and play around with it a little bit, something may be binding and causing inadequate hammer/sear engagement. I've got a link on my PC at home that describes the trigger group pretty well, I'll post it for you later today.
Sounds to me that with a lack of trigger pressure needed to fire susequent shots that there is a defect in the trigger sear where it engages with the hammer. the SKS does fire from a closed bolt like the C1/L1 so there fore if the pin is free to move and there is no spring restrining it from jumping forward as with the C1/L1 then the hammer so to speak must be falling!
That is a very dangerous condition for a semi auto or in fact any rifle, have you tightened all the retaining screw in the trigger group? Something as simple as that could throw every thing out of alignment allowing the hammer to hit the rear of the pin when the working parts are released!
Sadly I cant own one otherwise I'd love to try and simulate this for engineering reasons you understand. I have seen worn sears cause semi auto rimfires to go into burst so it does happen!
That is a very dangerous condition for a semi auto or in fact any rifle, have you tightened all the retaining screw in the trigger group? Something as simple as that could throw every thing out of alignment allowing the hammer to hit the rear of the pin when the working parts are released!
Sadly I cant own one otherwise I'd love to try and simulate this for engineering reasons you understand. I have seen worn sears cause semi auto rimfires to go into burst so it does happen!
You could have a very dangerous situation if a round goes off out of battery you or someone beside you could get hurt.
re stripping the trigger group: watch you fingers when trying to release the hammer, the spring is bloody strong.
-Also, wheredid you file the firing pin exactly?
Personally, I would buy an entirely 'new' bolt from districorp (for 20$) to see if it solves your issue... but if you say your firing pin is now moving freely, it really sounds like the run-off shots you got might have damaged/ loosened something in the trigger group which is preventing the hammer from being fully retained.
Be careful.
re stripping the trigger group: watch you fingers when trying to release the hammer, the spring is bloody strong.
-Also, wheredid you file the firing pin exactly?
Personally, I would buy an entirely 'new' bolt from districorp (for 20$) to see if it solves your issue... but if you say your firing pin is now moving freely, it really sounds like the run-off shots you got might have damaged/ loosened something in the trigger group which is preventing the hammer from being fully retained.
Be careful.
yeah, i'm pretty much positive that its the sear/hammer causing the problem. i don't really feel confident in taking apart the trigger assembly and playing weith it as i dont really know what i'm looking for. the only gunsmith around here is the one at shooters choice in waterloo. should i take it there?
- Location
- Surrey, BC
Unless the guy knows SKS's pretty well, I wouldn't even bother. Many gunsmiths won't touch an SKS.
What you could do is send your trigger group to Kivaari in the US for a trigger job. Not only will he fix the hammer/sear engagement and straighten any parts that are bent, he also polishes all the moving parts in the trigger group and gives you a little bit of positive hammer engagement, which is much safer than the usual neutral or negative engagement seen on almost all SKS's. Here's a couple links, one of which is his personal website;
h ttp://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/skstriggermaster/index.asp
h ttp://kivaari.com/SKS%20Target%20Match.htm
(just copy/paste the URL's into the address bar of your browser, and remove the space between the H and the TTP part of the URL)
What you could do is send your trigger group to Kivaari in the US for a trigger job. Not only will he fix the hammer/sear engagement and straighten any parts that are bent, he also polishes all the moving parts in the trigger group and gives you a little bit of positive hammer engagement, which is much safer than the usual neutral or negative engagement seen on almost all SKS's. Here's a couple links, one of which is his personal website;
h ttp://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/skstriggermaster/index.asp
h ttp://kivaari.com/SKS%20Target%20Match.htm
(just copy/paste the URL's into the address bar of your browser, and remove the space between the H and the TTP part of the URL)
The obvious test is to make sure it's empty, blah, blah, then #### it and smack the butt down on the ground or carpet. Try a few times with sufficient pressure. If the hammer falls, it's a sear engagement thing. Bum somebody elses trigger group and try would be another option. Taking the TG apart isn't going to fix anything. If the sear is cut wrong that's the end of the story. Could be a scary situation. You can get new sears and they are easy to replace. I second the vote for a whole new bolt assembly too. Maybe the pin is turning and jamming after a shot. If you filed both sides down that could be possible. Or a burr in the channel. Was the gun working before the pin incident?
- Location
- Surrey, BC
Here's that link I was talking about that shows the sear/hammer relationship. It's in the context of a trigger job, which you probably shouldn't worry about at this point, at least not until you get the thing fixed;
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/skstriggertips/index.asp
One more guess at the problem; the front of the trigger group, the part with the rails that the sear rides on, is bent & binding the sear. This can limit the sear's fore/aft travel so that it can't ride all the way back to catch the hammer.
Like Calum said, a new firing pin is cheap insurance. A new bolt is slightly more expensive, but still cheap compared to reconstructive surgery on yer face
Marstar sells replacement SKS parts, as does Lever Arms. Check their websites and order up whatever you need. Good luck!
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/skstriggertips/index.asp
One more guess at the problem; the front of the trigger group, the part with the rails that the sear rides on, is bent & binding the sear. This can limit the sear's fore/aft travel so that it can't ride all the way back to catch the hammer.
Like Calum said, a new firing pin is cheap insurance. A new bolt is slightly more expensive, but still cheap compared to reconstructive surgery on yer face
Marstar sells replacement SKS parts, as does Lever Arms. Check their websites and order up whatever you need. Good luck!
