Non CRF .375 H&H rifles

Would you buy a non-CRF .375 H&H rifle?

  • Yes, CRF is not important to me

    Votes: 26 36.1%
  • No, CRF in this caliber rifle is a must

    Votes: 24 33.3%
  • Don't care either way

    Votes: 22 30.6%

  • Total voters
    72

geologist

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I see a lot of .375 H&H rifles in non-CRF actions, Rem, Sako etc.

I cannot see the logic in owning one of these without controlled round feed.

Since there are so many out there I must be missing something. Please educate me.
 
I don't care either way.......... For hunting here in NA, the old push feeds have worked great on all game, including bears, for years.

If your gonna have CRF for your 375, wouldn't you want it for ALL you big game rifles?







 
Ive seen an off the shelf Model 70 classic stainless in 375 H&H that wouldnt feed all the time, so what good is CRF unless it works 100%

Ive never jammed a Remington pushfeed, although Ive never been in a situation where I had to reload super quick because a grizzly bear was bearing down on me :p
 
geologist said:
I figure CRF is a must on dangerous game rifles.

Rifles for non-dangerous game don't require CRF IMHO.

My 700/375Mag will never go to Africa and it's not likely I will either. Push feed on this one is OK.

I like it both ways. My Browning FN Safari in 300H&H is a favourite too. :)






 
CRF is hype. I've fired many thousands of rounds from various pushfeeds, and never had a problem. So statistically, this makes CRF the least of your worries. Statistically, you have a MUCH greater chance of some other failure.

Plus, who says the 375 is ONLY good as a DG gun?
 
geologist said:
I cannot see the logic in owning one of these without controlled round feed.

Since there are so many out there I must be missing something. Please educate me.

I believe that what you are missing is the fact that PF rifles function fine, and some people prefer the other features of the Remington 700, Sako AV/75 to the features of the 70 and 98 types, above theoretical advantages of CRF over PF.

Having said that I have two 375 pre-64 M70's and wouldn;t have it any other way:D :D , and am building an open sighted 9.3x62 on an FN
 
CRF is highly overrated. Fine if you "feel" you must have it, but not vital for 99.9% of all hunting. I had a 700 in 375 H&H for a while and I tried to make it malfunction. I tried every position, cycled the action slow, fast and in between, but nary a glitch. I think of all the Weatherbys that have gone to Africa, and the number of animals [dangerous ones included]taken with these push feed rifles, and I just know that this CRF issue is more a personal preference than anything else. Regards, Eagleye.
 
A woman hunter in BC got mauled a couple of years ago. She was hunting with her husband and despite having a loaded rifle was unable to get a shot off. The news report at the time said that her bolt action rifle had jammed. I always wondered if it was a double feed.

I like CRF because it can't easily be double fed. If I was moose or elk hunting in a non-grizzly habitat, I would happily use a push feed .375 H&H.

If I have to shoot a grizzly at 25m or less in a defensive situation, then I want a CRF, even if the advantage is theoretical. I see bears at close range in the bush and tundra and believe me, when they're close, the adrenaline dump makes your fine motor control go out the window.
 
While I certainly prefer CRF, I don't think that choice of action is the single factor by which a dangerous game rifle can be measured. If one word describes the dangerous game rifle it must be reliability. I rather doubt that the majority of .375's sold are ever tested against dangerous game, but that's besides the point. I believe these rifles must be built with that use in mind, and nothing short of absolute reliability is good enough.

When the action is worked, it will be worked with great force because the followup shot might have to be made very quickly. If the second round in the magazine jumps out as the bolt hits the stop, you are in serious trouble - regardless of which action you choose. I think that choosing the CRF is a good idea, but then you must take the extra step to ensure that the rifle works every time. Rounds cannot hang up in the magazine, nor jump out. It should not be difficult to lift the bolt handle when you work the action, yet there must be enough main spring energy to fire the cartridge every time. The trigger must be crisp and neither to light nor too heavy. The bolt cannot run across the top of the round without picking it up. When the round is picked up by the bolt, it must feed smoothly regardless of how blunt the bullet design. Ross Seyfried has written of rifles which will feed empty cases, and this is the kind of feeding that a DGR owner should strive for. The floor plate cannot swing open and dump your rounds in the dirt from the recoil of the first shot. The sights or cross hairs must immediately come into view without the shooter having to hunt for them. The double rifle I used when I went over seas was worth $40K, but to me it was worthless because when I threw it to my shoulder I had to wiggle it around to find the bead.

Mass production is responsible for the vast majority of the rifles we purchase. Some examples are very good, but unfortunately some are not so good. Expect some tweaking by a gunsmith to be required before your DGR's reliability becomes absolute.
 
If you're going to Africa sure take a CRF. For hunting North America I don't think its required. I personally like Mod. 70 CRF guns best, and normally hunt with then. That said my .375 is a Sako AV with open sights and QD mounts. It feeds flawlessly and at 7 3/4 lbs scoped its pretty hard to beat. I just traded my CZ CRF Rigby for a push feed Mark 5 in 338/378. I consider it a serious hunting gun. I've had grizzlies on several kills while packing P/F guns. Had some close encounters but never fired a shot and guess what, no jams. If your gun feeds it feeds. To say you need CRF is a load of crap. If you like it use it but to look down your nose at P/F guns makes me laugh.
 
I just want clarify that last post. I consider the .375 an all around hunting round so either action is O.K. If I was going strictly DG hunting I'd be packing a CRF gun in something much bigger.
 
It sure would be interesting to poll dangerous game guides/outfitters on this subject. For dangerous game...reliability, reliability, reliabilty...IMHO. :)
 
CRF..PF..B.S......try loading these guns without taking your shell out of the chamber....you can't yet people hunt dangerous game with them, go figure!
 
It doesn't matter what type of action a rifle has. If it feeds, fires, extracts and ejects, it is a good, reliable rifle and will serve it's owner well. I knew one fellow who grew up in Africa. The rifle he used most was a 1965 Winchester M70.
By the way, I have two Mauser actioned hunting rifles and both can be single loaded with no problem so that's a non-issue as well.
The only real advantage of the Mauser over a remington 700, for example, is the ease with which it can be repaired in the field without tools. In the unlikely event an extractor breaks, it's easy to install another. Broken firing pin? Same thing. I have to add, I've never had either happen to me so this may be a non-issue as well! Regards, Bill.
 
The MAIN point of a CRF is not smoothness or ability to feed a round, it is to save your ass if you do something like:

-pushing the bolt forward..NOT TURNING THE HADLE DOWN...drawing the bolt back then trying to chamber another round. On a Push feed the fist round would be left in the chamber, then the second round would be jammed into the fist. A CRF would extract and eject the fist round, then chamber the second.

-Draw a fired round only 3/4 of the way back so the case is NOT ejected but clears the chamber then run the bolt forward again. A PF will cause the brass to get jambed up. The moment a case leaves the camber it is pushed against the side of the action by the ejector, if you were to push the bolt forwards at this point the mouth of the brass would jamb up in the corner of the action and bbl. A CRF will hold the brass straight in line with the chamber, when pushing the bolt forwards the and brass gets re chambered rather than jambed.

-The bolt is slammed forwards deforming the brass and it is not able to fully chamber, the brass is stuck 3/4 of the way into the chamber. A PF extractor cannot grab hold of the round until the handle is closed but the handle cannot be closed because the action is 1/4 open. Rife is jambed. A CRF will be able to draw the damaged brass out if the chamber because the extractor is already over the rim of the brass --Don't laugh on this because it happened to me with a 416 Rigby, the soft Norma brass deformed at the shoulder, I could not close the bolt fully but was still able to remove the round (Ruger CRF)

I guess there are other situations too but I don't feel like typing anymore.

95% of the people that argue the PF and CRF thing just don't seem understand the mechanical issues then rant off about how their Remington has never jambed. HEY the issue is not if the rifle can feed a round it is if it can help correct your fukcups when a hippo is 6 feet from you.
 
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Republic of Alberta said:
95% of the people that argue the PF and CRF thing just don't seem understand the mechanical issues then rant off about how their Remington has never jambed. HEY the issue is not if the rifle can feed a round it is if it can help correct your fukcups when a hippo is 6 feet from you.

Actually, I think 95% of us understand the mechanical issues just fine, thank you.

We just find the probability of short-stroking a PF with hippos in close proximity to be fairly low.
 
^ 'zactly. If I was THAT worried about mechanical failure or user error, I'd have to go with a double. But I'm not. Compared to a double, the differenced between PF and CRF are minimal indeed
 
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