Norinco 1897 12guage Barrel Loose

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dodgecrew

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My Norinco 1897 12guage barrel is loose. The barrel moves up, down and side to side as well as being able to turn it right or left. it is tight about an 1/8 of an inch past the bead being vertical but the shell extractor slot is not aligned with extractor on the bolt. How should one tighten the barrel. I removed the barrel again and reinstalled it is tight to receiver when the barrel is about 1/8 inch past center. It is like it needs a thin shim or locking compound like blue locktite? The shotgun is used with light 2 3/4 loads 7.5 or 8 shot for Wild Bunch Shooting.
 
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The original Winchester version had an adjustable sleeve with teeth on it that you could take up slack, but the Norinco may not,I can't find a parts diagram, Cimmaron version doesn't seem to have it. Maybe you could make a thin shim washer to tighten it up. Most Norinco made anything I've seen left a lot to be desired.
 
Like smokinbarrel said, the takedown winchester version had a sleeve that could be adjusted to tighten the fit. It is shown pretty well in that video (https://youtu.be/ANwA_bwB5eQ) even if it's not the same model. But I think the norinco copied the solid frame version so I don't think it would apply. I'm no expert on that model but like you said I would probably try to find something to make a thin shim + blue loctite can't hurt. The hard part would be to find a perfectly sized piece of thin steel. What's the diameter on the thread of the barrel?
 
Well apparently they sell barrel shims specifically for the winchester 1897, so that might be somewhat common. (http://www.bullcreekarms.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71). If they ship to Canada, that would probably be your best option. Otherwise I'm thinking an s&j hardware wave washer for mag tube extension, but that may be too large. I have one on hand though so I could take the inner and outer diameter.
 
You can also drive the threads back slightly on many take downs. Grind a chisel so it fits the side of the thread while chisel is at about a 45 degree angle. tap on threads towards muzzle, working around them. Go easy and check fit often b/c you can overdo it. You don't have to get full tight contact on all threads, if you can even get a few tight spots it will do the trick. Works best if you keep hammer blows consistent and work evenly around all threads.
 
Measured the barrel threaded end OD 1.047 and ID 0.910. This is not a take down model. When barrel bottoms out in receiver it is still 1/8 in past the bead being vertical. If there was a shim between the barrel and receiver it would require trimming on both sides for the bolt shell extractors. The shim would then be two pieces.
 
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You can "tin" the barrel threads with soft lead solder and flux. Use a propane torch and a brass brush. This will enable you to index the barrel yet still remove it needed. Stays tight and in this instance better than loc tite.

Darryl
 
smokinbarrel said:
You can also drive the threads back slightly on many take downs. Grind a chisel so it fits the side of the thread while chisel is at about a 45 degree angle. tap on threads towards muzzle, working around them. Go easy and check fit often b/c you can overdo it. You don't have to get full tight contact on all threads, if you can even get a few tight spots it will do the trick. Works best if you keep hammer blows consistent and work evenly around all threads.
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This is something I’ve heard of doing ... but have never heard or seen anyone do it. Or tried it myself....Doesn’t ( and it’s just me asking a question) weaken the threads , after pushing them forward? It would be something that I wouldn’t want to have to do more then once or maybe twice. And yes I know we’re just trying to move them, just a “red hair” forward, but it’s got to put some tension on the base of the thread( shear force) .
Cheers
Brian
 
quinnbrian said:
This is something I’ve heard of doing ... but have never heard or seen anyone do it. Or tried it myself....Doesn’t ( and it’s just me asking a question) weaken the threads , after pushing them forward? It would be something that I wouldn’t want to have to do more then once or maybe twice. And yes I know we’re just trying to move them, just a “red hair” forward, but it’s got to put some tension on the base of the thread( shear force) .
Cheers
Brian
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I have done it a few times, I think I read about it originally in one of the old gunsmithing books. In most cases you're not moving the threads very far and they are generally malleable enough to stand it. I've found it easier on "V" threads, but can be done to others.
 
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