Norinco M-305 newbee questions

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Hello new on this site,

I currently use a 270 Win bolt action or a SKS 7.62*39 semi-auto for Deer hunting. Fisrt is very accurate at long range and powerfull the second, good in dense wood but lack accuracy and power for eventually hunting moose.

I am considering the 308 caliber as a good compromise between the two and considering buying a Norinco M-14 model 305 from Marstar Canada. I would like to install a scope,eventually change the stock and do a bedding job.

Norinco's are cheap but is there serious reliability issue (head space, double firing, soft metal bolt )I should consider before buying such a gun ?

Since I am a newbee with theses guns any comments are welcome:confused: .

Thanks

Alll
 
for the umpteenth time there is NOTHING wrong with the norinco 305 current model- what you're reading applies to the pre-ban AMERICAN import, and not all of them- the headspacing and soft bolt issues have been addressed long ago- a good mount will cost almost as much as the gun and a usgi fiberglas stock about another hundred, provided you do the work yourself- read the stickies at the top of this column- it's a little heavy for hunting ,but super reliable- the only limitation is that you stick to 165 or lighter loads, which is wonderful for deer but maybe marginal on bullwinkle
 
Marstar was sold out when I phoned them about 3 or 4 weeks ago, so I bought from Dark. Comes with one 20/5 round mag,and two 5 round mini-mags.

As this is a topic of newbie questions, I'll toss in my own rather than start a new thread.
As soon as I got my gun, I went to SurplusRifle.com for info on it.

http://surplusrifle.com/m14m1a/rifledisassembly/index.asp

In pictures 37 to 41, they show the gas spindle valve being able to turn. This is on a US gun, not a Norinco. I was not able to rotate the thing on mine. It seems to be pinned in place. Comments?

Also, pictures 34 and 35 show the flash suppressor being removed. I don't have the tool shown, but a quick look at mine appears to be locked in place. Can it be removed? I have a lot of corrosive Czech ammo, so I would like to be able to clean EVERYWHERE.
 
tootall said:
In pictures 37 to 41, they show the gas spindle valve being able to turn. This is on a US gun, not a Norinco. I was not able to rotate the thing on mine. It seems to be pinned in place. Comments?

Also, pictures 34 and 35 show the flash suppressor being removed. I don't have the tool shown, but a quick look at mine appears to be locked in place. Can it be removed? I have a lot of corrosive Czech ammo, so I would like to be able to clean EVERYWHERE.


Gonna use it at the Tac matches next year?:)

The spindle valve does not seem to turn on my rifle either.:confused: As for the flash suppressor, mine was machined out of register and had a cant to the right. I bought a usgi unit that was modified to match specs to replace it. When I started to loosen the castle nut the suppressor wouldn't budge. Seems they are silver soldered on! Some members recommend drilling, but I just took 4 good swats with a hammer and a good size pin punch against the flats of the sight and bayo bosses and it popped right off.:) Rifle looks and works so much better with a front sight that is straight!:D
 
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hey All,

I also recomend Dark for your M305 purchase if in fact you do go that route. As far as I kow Marstar is sold out until some time in the new year and most of the other places that have them are much more expensive.

I have had my 305 for about a month and am in the process of trying to tune it up for hunting.

First, look at the cost of mounts if you intend on running a scope; high quality mounts are quite expensive (ie smith, arms 18). I ended up ordering a b-square mount from SIR Mailorder for about $110 but most people on this board will probably tell you single point mounts are crap.

Second, T-Star is right, this gun isn't light, I ordered a USGI stock from Sarco Inc. in the states for about $60 shipped, but it isn't exactly show quality. The USGI stock does make the gun a little less heavy but not much.

Third, if you are a perfectionist or are used to high quality, high finish items you are going to spend a few dollars getting this gun to the point where you are happy with it.

Fourth, this gun is f***ing cool! it is fun to shoot, cool to look at and fun to #### around with all for a fraction of the price of the Springfield units, but once you are done making a few changes you could probably have bought a good remington 700 or tikka T3 if hunting is you only priority.

As far as durability is concerned I haven't had mine long enough to find out first hand but all reports indicate this is a very robust, quality unit once the initial bugs have been worked out.
 
Are you sure about the weight difference between the Chu wood and USGI synthetic? I remember somebody mentioning that the synthetic was heavier. Could be wrong though.
 
odp said:
Are you sure about the weight difference between the Chu wood and USGI synthetic? I remember somebody mentioning that the synthetic was heavier. Could be wrong though.

always someone looking for data..:p

Actually I'm not sure, I havent checked the weight of each stock but the original wood stock that I recieved is quite heavy, so the synthetic stock "appears" to be a little less heavy.

Either way the gun is a bit of a porker, I dont know its dry weight but compared to my 26" 870 it "appears" to be heavier.

my mistake sorry.
 
the usgi fiberglas is a much finer stock- finer as in thinner and not so clunky- the chinese has a forend like a pump shotgun- big beavertail type- lots of wood up there to hang on to- probably better if you want to attach a bipod as there's more bearing surface- as for the mounts, although all the latest are 3 points or better, take a gander at what was available and the yardages in the vn war- they were all single point attachments at that time- the third generation didn't come out until the 80's-later 80's at that- i've got a second gerneration springfield and it still is a single point mount-reason being that they still wanted to be able to use the charger clip option if necessary in the bush- your 3 point mount deprives you of that- but you may lose your zero in the process if dismount/mount- the rest of the beef with the mounts comes from the fact that aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates- which may or may not apply in your situation- and the fact that aluminum is softer than steel and recoil tends to hammer the aluminum- but you also get what you pay for- and it's about 300 for a steel or better
 
Laniru said:
Gonna use it at the Tac matches next year?:)

The spindle valve does not seem to turn on my rifle either.:confused: As for the flash suppressor, mine was machined out of register and had a cant to the right. I bought a usgi unit that was modified to match specs to replace it. When I started to loosen the castle nut the suppressor wouldn't budge. Seems they are silver soldered on! Some members recommend drilling, but I just took 4 good swats with a hammer and a good size pin punch against the flats of the sight and bayo bosses and it popped right off.:) Rifle looks and works so much better with a front sight that is straight!:D
you do know it's a push in, then turn?
 
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