norinco oprod?

444 marlin

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I have a norinco m305 shorty,I have 400 rounds through it,twice I had the op rod jump off the bolt roller,and the empty case was still in the chamber it looks normal.I am useing norinco ammo,it is suprisingly accurate for a 400 dollar rifle.has any one had this problem and how do I fix it?
I did not see this issue on the web site
Thanks Wayne
 
Thanks,I am going to strip it down tomorow and see what I can find.The last time I stripped it I put the op rod and bolt in with out the spring and it passed the rattle test.
How do you adjust the op rod guide?
Thanks
 
If the op rod guide is loose it is an easy fix ,
Just remove the pin and slide the op rod guide forward.
Use a center punch and make alot of dimples in area where the guide was.
Use some permanent loctite and replace guide and pin.


 
I think I may have found the problem,the stock was touching at the front end of the operating rod in the action closed position.It was bad enough that it turned the rod slighty due to the angle of the relief cut in the stock,as the action unlocked it turned the rod out board.The rod was also not straight,it was high at the rear were the cut out is,I stoned it and straight edged it a few times now I don't have that notchy feel when the rod is let down by hand.
I will shoot it tomorow and see let you all know
Thanks for your help
 
I think I may have found the problem,the stock was touching at the front end of the operating rod in the action closed position.It was bad enough that it turned the rod slighty due to the angle of the relief cut in the stock,as the action unlocked it turned the rod out board.The rod was also not straight,it was high at the rear were the cut out is,I stoned it and straight edged it a few times now I don't have that notchy feel when the rod is let down by hand.
I will shoot it tomorow and see let you all know
Thanks for your help
Hmmm...
This sounds less and less of a loosey goosey op-rod and more like an alignment/timing issue. Is this an Canada Ammo shorty M14?
As for all those out there in the garage gun smith land who don't want to peen there barrels. (*Even though it states to do this in M14 accurizing manual.*) Be on the look out for this material:
8-12.jpg

Turned many of people into a believer at the M14 clinic's and saved us a whole bunch of time too.
 
Hmmm...
This sounds less and less of a loosey goosey op-rod and more like an alignment/timing issue. Is this an Canada Ammo shorty M14?
As for all those out there in the garage gun smith land who don't want to peen there barrels. (*Even though it states to do this in M14 accurizing manual.*) Be on the look out for this material:
8-12.jpg

Turned many of people into a believer at the M14 clinic's and saved us a whole bunch of time too.
I shoot it again yesterday,and a small piece of the op rod that unlocks the bolt chipped off and hit me in the forhead,it embeded slightly.I stripped it down and checked it with out the trigger group,and recoil spring I noticed that only .062" contacted the bolt roller,and it was the corner that chipped off.
The op rod is to far away from the bolt roller so I drifted out the op rod guide pin,and moved it so the op rod was closer at the bolt roller area.The guide was out more than I would have expected,I had to drill the pin hole to .125" and repin it.I will retest it tomorow with my full face motorcycle helmut,any more problems and I will strip it and save it for parts,not safe to sell.
 
Hmmm...
This sounds less and less of a loosey goosey op-rod and more like an alignment/timing issue. Is this an Canada Ammo shorty M14?
As for all those out there in the garage gun smith land who don't want to peen there barrels. (*Even though it states to do this in M14 accurizing manual.*) Be on the look out for this material:
8-12.jpg

Turned many of people into a believer at the M14 clinic's and saved us a whole bunch of time too.
I have loctite 620,I work in a machine shop,great stuff
 
.... Did I read it right that the OP was hit with a shard of metal that came off the rifle/oprod?
If it wasn't brass and was indeed metal that used to be part of your rifle.... I wouldn't even screw around, make sure the metal was not from receiver or bolt. If it can be isolated to metal from the oprod... You need a new oprod and one that fits better. Don't mess with it, replace it , or you may be risking your personal safety.

Anchoring the oprod guide on the barrel, aligning the oprod tube with gas piston is common practice and recommended.
 
.... Did I read it right that the OP was hit with a shard of metal that came off the rifle/oprod?
If it wasn't brass and was indeed metal that used to be part of your rifle.... I wouldn't even screw around, make sure the metal was not from receiver or bolt. If it can be isolated to metal from the oprod... You need a new oprod and one that fits better. Don't mess with it, replace it , or you may be risking your personal safety.

Anchoring the oprod guide on the barrel, aligning the oprod tube with gas piston is common practice and recommended.
The shard of metal was from the op rod,It was a small chip that came off the tip of the slot that opens the roller.The rod was to far from the roller so only a small contact area was avaiable to contact the roller for opening causing a very high loading.
I shot it today after the guide adjustment,and it no longer dismounts at the roller now it does it every 4-5 shots at the rear of the op rod were it passes the dismount slot,I figure the rod is not bent properly,who sells norinco parts?
 
Dlask used to have some.

Armtac has some.

I've got my old op rod if you can't find one.

Fit not gurrantied , but it may work.

You did have a tonne of grease in the bolt roller slot??
 
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Dlask used to have some.

Armtac has some.

I've got my old op rod if you can't find one.

Fit not gurrantied , but it may work

You did have a tonne of grease in the bolt roller slot??
not a bunch of grease,light coat of lubriplate 630 used an artist brush.What do you want for your op rod? did it work ok in your rifle?do those after market rods fit or do they require hand fitting?
 
They require fitting. Emory cloth or stone. Time consuming. Little bit at a time and hundreds of test fitting but doable.

I bought a black feather and swapped all the parts in my build. My oprod has never been fired.

I can send you the oprod. You pay shipping and if it works you pay me $100 if it don't ship it back.
 
When Yomomma says takes a little time, he is not kidding either. For mine (a Dlask OpRod) I used a little (and I mean a little) lapping compound to get the proper fit, but also to really smoothen the guide channel. Mine works flawlessly. If you have never used or are not familiar in the use of lapping compound (as in lapping valves or other machining related tasks with the stuff) - stick to the emery.
 
What I've found with the dlask oprods (manufactured by RWB) is the pad above the oprod tab often needs stoning to even get the tab to engage the slot.
Once you have engagement, fine lapping compound and a rubber mallet ;)
The results of hand fitting a new oprod can be very satisfying
 
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