norinco tokarev trigger...HELP!!!!

manboy

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anyone know how to lighten up the 19 pound trigger on a tokarev? i have NO experience gunsmithing but have no fear about learning on my 179.00 masterpiece. maybe the only cure is 10000 rounds of communist ammo to loosen it all up?
 
ok. so do i actually need to disassemble the whole trigger assembly? i just got it this AM and only field stripped and wiped out as much gunk as possible, but i didn't take apart the whole trigger block, or whatever you call it.
 
manboy said:
i have NO experience gunsmithing but have no fear about learning on my 179.00 masterpiece.


I'd be more concerned about it buggering you up. It going full auto with a clip full because you changed the sear angle so it slips instead of hooks or you took a bit too much off when you were getting rid of creep and you don't have enough engagement distance (over lap) anymore, would not make for fun times.

If you're going to be messing with the trigger the thought of taking it ALL apart shouldn't scare you ... getting the hammer back in can be fun but once you really look at it it's not hard.
So once you've cleaned it up really well put it all back together study how the trigger group works while it's in your hand then decide if you know enough about it to start lightening things and smoothing.
If you don't feel comfortable then don't do it ... it not the $180 it's where in you or someone else the stray bullet goes as it flips back. If you work on it only load 2 rounds for the first while.

Remember not to take so much off that you go through any case hardening.

It would be easier to see where things are meshing if it has some witness marks on it from shooting it for a bit.

It can be a fun shooter though if you work at it or are lucky enough to get a good one.

Cast bullets can be hard to get to seat straight for the 7.62 you need to bell quite a bit.
 
actually,i just soaked my trigger in degreaser and then sprayed it dry with compressed air- then a light oiling squirt and that was it- but how did you get 19 pounds- did you actually measure it with a trigger pull guage, or is this just a guess?- mine was no where near that- about 7 and gritty
 
thanks. after ripping it all apart again last night and studying it a bit, i decided i'll put a few hundred rounds through it before i do any home-smithing. i did miss some of the grease the first run.

question: what would be the bad effects of using brake cleaner or engine degreaser to strip that goo off? other than it would probably eat the plastic grips....
 
I like taking the trigger groups form each of my guns apart, and running them through a brass tumbler with walnut media and a little rouge overnight. Everything is mirror shiny and smooth the next day. This will, however, remove most finishes, so don't put any blued or parkerized parts in there that you would like to STAY blued or parkerized.
 
manboy said:
19 pounds measured with digital fishing scale
that's about as good as a swag- remember there's a fairly long takeup before the sear actually engages and then breaks, releasing the hammer- at least there is on mine- if you're just pulling straight back on the trigger, yoou're getting a false picture
 
t-star said:
that's about as good as a swag- remember there's a fairly long takeup before the sear actually engages and then breaks, releasing the hammer- at least there is on mine- if you're just pulling straight back on the trigger, yoou're getting a false picture

fair enough.
 
I like taking the trigger groups form each of my guns apart, and running them through a brass tumbler with walnut media and a little rouge overnight. Everything is mirror shiny and smooth the next day. This will, however, remove most finishes, so don't put any blued or parkerized parts in there that you would like to STAY blued or parkerized.

That sounds like a great tip. I just have to find a source for rouge and I will try it. Thanks!
 
I would advise against just dumping parts into a tumbler overnight. By it's nature this method will remove more matieral along sharp edges and corners than it will on flat areas. And in some cases you want to maintain sharp corners or profile them to a desired contour under more control than tumbling would provide. If anything good came from tumbling the parts of a trigger action it's certainly due more to good luck than to good planning. Taken to extremes you can put square blocks of steel into a tumbler with an abrasive filler and really nice round balls will come out. This is not the sort of action you want to use on trigger mechanism parts even in a minmal way.

Here's a link to the M213 Tokarev Mod thread from about a year ago. There's a bunch of good material in it that will help you. As you'll see I wound my own springs. But not everyone is set up to do that. For you I'd suggest a Wolff spring set for a Tok' and then do the other bits of work that you recognize as being within your own ability.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369929
 
ok. so do i actually need to disassemble the whole trigger assembly? i just got it this AM and only field stripped and wiped out as much gunk as possible, but i didn't take apart the whole trigger block, or whatever you call it.

Get a small disposable aluminum baking pan or whatever that will not be used for cooking again and drop the parts into it...take out to a secure patio outside and hose 'em down with G96. When the air clears bring them back inside and let them sit for a few hours and then use a clean rag to wipe them down with.

Also watch out as the main spring is under a lot of pressure...So you might want to take that apart indoors. :D
 
Snap-caps. Will help with accuracy down the line too. Imprint the trigger pull in your muscle memory, and helps break it in.
My opinion; for what it's worth
Stay safe
 
It depends on many things... I happen to believe in things that are well made, put together by people who are blessed with the right amount of expertise, experience and passion for their trade. That goes for anything I purchase, which means that quite often my patience is put to the test, over and over again. I guess I would rather wait another 8-10 months and get a real thing (Bryston SP2 or BMW f800GS or whatever) than to indulge my craving for instant gratification.

I do not support the notion that the Chinese make some damn powerful and complex weapon systems, therefore small arms too- that kind of expertise does not necessarily translate into well designed and produced consumer products. Think Kamov Ka-50 and Lada... have you ever driven one?

Perhaps if you delay your purchase and keep saving, you will end up acquiring a nice, modern German or Austrian made handgun that will really give many, many years of satisfaction and joy.

Good luck.
 
I would advise against just dumping parts into a tumbler overnight. By it's nature this method will remove more matieral along sharp edges and corners than it will on flat areas. And in some cases you want to maintain sharp corners or profile them to a desired contour under more control than tumbling would provide. If anything good came from tumbling the parts of a trigger action it's certainly due more to good luck than to good planning. Taken to extremes you can put square blocks of steel into a tumbler with an abrasive filler and really nice round balls will come out. This is not the sort of action you want to use on trigger mechanism parts even in a minmal way.

Here's a link to the M213 Tokarev Mod thread from about a year ago. There's a bunch of good material in it that will help you. As you'll see I wound my own springs. But not everyone is set up to do that. For you I'd suggest a Wolff spring set for a Tok' and then do the other bits of work that you recognize as being within your own ability.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369929

Thanks! I've been reading your other posts and was already wondering how you did your own springs. Wolf sounds like a goodd option for me.
 
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