Np29 aftermarket parts?

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notyalc

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Whats a good site in Canada that I can get aftermarket magazines and extractor for my Norc 1911 in 9mm? Looking for half decent parts at a decent price. Found a extractor with a quick search but it's over $100.

The gun has a problem with stovepiping every couple shots. Took the gun into Dlask arms and they fiddled with the extractor and replaced the barrel link because it was jamming and stovepiping. After they did all that it functioned great. Now it's stovepiping again. So I'm assuming it the extractor.
 
If the cases that do make it out are barely dribbling out over the back of your hand it may be that the recoil spring is too strong or you're using reloaded ammo which is weaker than normal. If the slide cycles lazily due to either situation then it can produce more stovepipe jams than otherwise. If the empties don't fly out more than a foot before falling below the gun height then the recoil is pretty light.

Another hint that it's one of these two things is if the lock back after the last round is questionable. If it fails to slide lock properly even now and then it's a sign that the slide isn't kicking back as far and fast as it should be.

There's a way to test for the extractor. With the slide off the gun you should be able to hook an empty case under the extractor hook and have it rest against the slide face with just a very slight droop of the casing from horizontal. Like about 5 to 7 degrees. If it's more or if the extractor is holding it firmly in place that's not good. But if it passes this test then it's likely not your extractor but instead the ejector. That's the fixed finger thingie that sticks out of the slot on the left side of the slide when it's most of the way back. If that finger doesn't have the right face shape it can cause issues. But this assumes that the recoil spring is correctly matched to the ammo power first. And the test for that is the way the ejected brass behaves.
 
Thanks for the info. Seems that the extractor is holding a case pretty tight. Guessing that means I should bend it a bit to make it loosen up a bit? I also noticed the ejector isn't really tight and has a bit of play in it. Should it have play in it?

Turns out brownells will actually ship to Canada. I swear I tried before and they wouldn't. So I ordered a Ed brown extractor and a Ed brown extended ejector. If these two don't solve the problem I'll probably look into replacing the mag. I've heard the mags that come with them are pretty ####ty and could cause some problems.
 
Stovepiping live?
then its the mags. The tops are weak. You can pinch them together with pliers but they eventually will go back. New good quality ones will feed flawlessly.
 
All this talk makes me want to ask what are the best (value) 9mm 1911 mags out there? I hear a lot of good things about Wilson Combat. Any other recommendations and leads on where to find them for a good price?
 
Just be darn careful with bending the tip. Load it up wrong and it can snap off at the inside corner. If you need to alter the curve keep the grip from the pliers a little back away from the hook.

Most of the reasoning for the slight looseness of the extractor is to ease the slipping of the NEXT round's rim up into place. Not to extract and toss away the old empty. So again if the empty case is the one that is stove piping then I'd be watching how strongly the other cases that do make it out are doing and watching for an odd direction of the ejected brass with the recoil spring being the primary suspect and the EJECTOR, not the extractor, being the other suspect. Very slight changes in nose shape and angle on the ejector can play a huge part in how the empty cases are tossed out the ejection port. It's as important as the slide moving smartly enough to give it the energy for the ejection.

If the gun chambers fresh rounds cleanly the extractor would be way down the list of suspicious trouble makers. Same with the magazine. The mag doesn't play a part in extracting and ejecting the empty cases. The empty casing is already on it's way out the port by the time the spine on the lower side of the slide moves back past the head of the new round and allows it to snap up against the mag lips.
 
Describe exactly what happens. What ammo too. As mentioned, stove piping can be a feeding issue or an extraction issue. And when was the last time you gave it a really good bath?
 
It will fire a couple round fine, and then it will stovepipe. I've tried several different types of factory ammo and it does the same thing. I give her a bath every time it happens, with the same results. Oh and when the gun was at Dlask arms, he polished up a few areas.
 
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