I have a very nice ex-ranger issue 1950 Longbranch that has had the barrel counterbored...I would like find a nice barrel to replace it with....where might one find such an item? Has anyone ever built a stainless replacement barrel for the 303?
Number 4 303 barrel replacement
- Thread starter wannabe
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I am unaware of any current source for NOS No. 4 barrels.
Maybe in England, but export from England could be an issue.
Stainless? This would have to be a full blown custom. The hard part would be the front sight base lugs (and bayonet lugs if desired).
Perhaps finding a bubba'd sporter with a good barrel would be a possibility.
Maybe in England, but export from England could be an issue.
Stainless? This would have to be a full blown custom. The hard part would be the front sight base lugs (and bayonet lugs if desired).
Perhaps finding a bubba'd sporter with a good barrel would be a possibility.
Only sources for barrels is old sporters as tiriaq has stated. I have found a few barrels without receivers which someone had previously taken apart. New barrels setting in storage from years ago are extremely rare to find. I have found one in over 15 years of rebuilding Lee Enfields. LE barrels can be difficult getting off and you need proper wrenches.
There are always people using Lee Enfields as the basis for .45ACP, etc., conversions. Sometimes full length barrels with decent bores do turn up.
Then again I've been advertising in the EE for a No. 4 barrel with pooched bore to line to .22. No luck. If one with a bad bore isn't easy to find, one with a fine bore could be a real challenge.
The last supply of NOS No. 4 barrels I recall were 1950s BSA made replacement barrels which sold at 3/$100. Those days are long gone. I have my last one cached away against the day a bubba'd 4T falls into my lap.
As Snider shooter indicated, pulling Lee Enfield barrels can be an adventure. I have found SMLE barrels not to be too bad, but No.4s can be right up there with P'14s and Ross Mk. IIIs.
Don't try without good tools. If a detached No.4 barrel is offered have a good look to see if any damage was inflicted removing it.
Then again I've been advertising in the EE for a No. 4 barrel with pooched bore to line to .22. No luck. If one with a bad bore isn't easy to find, one with a fine bore could be a real challenge.
The last supply of NOS No. 4 barrels I recall were 1950s BSA made replacement barrels which sold at 3/$100. Those days are long gone. I have my last one cached away against the day a bubba'd 4T falls into my lap.
As Snider shooter indicated, pulling Lee Enfield barrels can be an adventure. I have found SMLE barrels not to be too bad, but No.4s can be right up there with P'14s and Ross Mk. IIIs.
Don't try without good tools. If a detached No.4 barrel is offered have a good look to see if any damage was inflicted removing it.
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Pooched # 1 barrels aren’t a problem, I have a couple ,but #4’s have excellent bores and are destined for rebuilds. Both of my loose barrels are Canadian marked. I need a few more pieces before I rebuild them.
I have one LB .22 receiver left, a bolt head and a liner, so I thought it would be worthwhile to find a suitable No. 4 barrel. Install the liner and keep the bits on hand for a rainy day.
Sporters with full length barrels and fine bores aren't low cost any more. But there is a market for project actions, so breaking a sporter for the barrel can still be an option.
Sporters with full length barrels and fine bores aren't low cost any more. But there is a market for project actions, so breaking a sporter for the barrel can still be an option.
https://criterionbarrels.com/products/lee-enfield/lee-enfield-no-4-barrel-2/
https://www.lothar-walther.com/drop-in-gun-barrels/enfield-no.4-mk1/
Hope this helps
Edit: pls remove if not allowed.
https://www.lothar-walther.com/drop-in-gun-barrels/enfield-no.4-mk1/
Hope this helps
Edit: pls remove if not allowed.
Barrels aren’t cheap. Expensive route to go. Easier to find a sporter and swap barrels. If you were building a target rifle one of those barrels would be the way to go.
It all boils down to COST.
OP, obviously cost isn't important to you or you wouldn't devalue that Ranger issue rifle, which has substantial value as is and would lose value if you rebarrel it.
As mentioned by tiriaq, it may be difficult to find a smith with the proper tooling to do the job.
No1 and No4 receivers don't have a lot of areas to fit a wrench on and are quite soft in comparison to other types.
Very easy to make a mistake and mar or crush the edges.
It requires a special base for the bottom of an outside wrench over the breeching area, with a cut out for the king screw pedestal, and an upper with a half round cut out, with just enough clearance for a brass shim, so the two pieces can be clamped together equally on both sides, so you don't deform the receiver ring area when applying torque to the wrench.
I have seen barrels that twist like pretzels when being held in a barrel vise while taking them off the receivers.
If that rifle shoots well, leave it alone, would be good advice IMHO. If it was done by an armorer, it's "correct" as issued and IMHO doesn't cause much, if any, loss in value.
OP, obviously cost isn't important to you or you wouldn't devalue that Ranger issue rifle, which has substantial value as is and would lose value if you rebarrel it.
As mentioned by tiriaq, it may be difficult to find a smith with the proper tooling to do the job.
No1 and No4 receivers don't have a lot of areas to fit a wrench on and are quite soft in comparison to other types.
Very easy to make a mistake and mar or crush the edges.
It requires a special base for the bottom of an outside wrench over the breeching area, with a cut out for the king screw pedestal, and an upper with a half round cut out, with just enough clearance for a brass shim, so the two pieces can be clamped together equally on both sides, so you don't deform the receiver ring area when applying torque to the wrench.
I have seen barrels that twist like pretzels when being held in a barrel vise while taking them off the receivers.
If that rifle shoots well, leave it alone, would be good advice IMHO. If it was done by an armorer, it's "correct" as issued and IMHO doesn't cause much, if any, loss in value.
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