Offset Aimpoint on an AR

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FPembleton

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This post can go on a variety of forums, but I thought I'd put it here since it has to do with configuring an AR. I have a 2.5-10x24mm Nightforce scope on a Noveske that I want to use for service rifle this year. I feel the fine lines of the NP-R2 reticle are too fine for some of the faster shooting stages under 100m.

I picked up a KAC offset mount to try out, but I can't find a good way to mount it (I had an extra Aimpoint micro laying around). I'm right handed and I have it mounted on the right side rail. I've tried it at the front of the rail, and the rear of the rail, but when I cant my rifle I find the optic far too low to get a good sight picture. The dot ends up either out of picture or on the very edge, if I'm lucky.

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When you roll your rifle over, the Aimpoint is not at the same height as the primary optic. It will sit far lower, and you have to readjust the height of your eye much lower. I have a feeling I should have gone with a Larue LT 724 for what I wanted. I've also tried mounting it to the top rail, but that requires turning the Aimpoint 90 degrees, and requires canting the rifle nearly 90 degrees.

I guess the positive points about the mount are its low profile, ease of access to the battery knob, and low bore-axis.

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I am just curious what would happen if you mounted it further forward like by front gas block but not on the right side - put it on the left side (so your primary optic doesn't block POV) and use it like a scout scope. Would that help at all? I am assuming that you can unscrew it from the base and reverse the aimpoint as well.
 
Moving it forward is worse as the FOV is cut down even more. The right side doesn't make sense ergonomically. It would also either put the battery knob in the way of the primary optic, or right into the top rail.

For this optic, I'll probably mostly use it on 5x. THe eye relief is better.
 
I have something similar to that set up but I'm using a Daniel Defense 1 O’clock Offset Rail for my red dot. I'll probably move it to the front of my scope mount when I get a rail. It works fine for the tacrifle shoots.

It might be an option for you.

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I have used the DD 1 O'Clock rail with an ACOG and a Micro, and it was very fast. I think the DD or LaRue mount (if you want high budget) would work better for the roll and shoot option.
 
While I don't actually like dual-optic setups, the DD 1'o clock mount is the one I prefer.

You can order it right from Brownells, but if OneShotTactical is carrying DD, might as well pay a Canadian retailer for it.
 
angryeyebrows said:
I have used the DD 1 O'Clock rail with an ACOG and a Micro, and it was very fast. I think the DD or LaRue mount (if you want high budget) would work better for the roll and shoot option.
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Yeah. My first choice was the Larue... unfortunately I went with the solution that was available, not what I really wanted.
 
Satain said:
Hence why the piggy back ACOG Dr.Optic is still the best route to go hands down.
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For you perhaps

C. Reed Knight III offered to swap it for a top right mount on the scope body. I haven't taken him up on it, because that solution may be even worse for me. I don't know about you, but I don't want to have to change my cheek weld, and then to think about the +X up offset then +Y right offset up close.

Simply rolling right 30degrees and having the same offset would be ideal for me.
 
Satain said:
Hence why the piggy back ACOG Dr.Optic is still the best route to go hands down.
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Had a chat with some Trijicon Folks at shot in FLA asking why they put it on top, the guy incharge of buying them wanted it there even though the users didn't is what I was told.
if having it on top was faster, you'd see that setup being used by everyone on the 3G circuit, but they're not.
 
You might wanna run it right at the front of your rail... the 'eye to optic' angle will be less severe, if you see what I'm sayin....

Would running it from the TOP rail improve the situation or make it worse?
 
FPembleton said:
For you perhaps

C. Reed Knight III offered to swap it for a top right mount on the scope body. I haven't taken him up on it, because that solution may be even worse for me. I don't know about you, but I don't want to have to change my cheek weld, and then to think about the +X up offset then +Y right offset up close.

Simply rolling right 30degrees and having the same offset would be ideal for me.
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That my dear friend is truly classic kool-aid type of response.
Your right rolling your head up and down and having an uninterrupted field of view is way worse than rotating the entire firearm side to side and having your field of view partially obstructed by another optic.
As for many people running this setup during 3G match they are far and few between due to the fact that the ACOG best sutied for this is restricted for Military personal only. As matter of fact that is the whole reason why there is this option in the first place. But what do I know...
Anyone can get the TA01NSN right???
P.S. This set-up is only 16.1 ounces.
 
You can't get a TA01NSN, but you can just get a TA01 and then just add the parts that would turn it into the TA01NSN.

The cant-mounts are best due to being able to maintain cheekweld, and use the second optic with a mere twist of the wrist.
 
16.1 oz. Great set up. I agree that the cant maybe a good option for some. I have tried and cant adjust to an ACOG and reflex sight. I loose cheek weld and there are better 1-4x options out there... (S&B etc). but the costs are relative.

As far as the TA01NSN .. they come up on the EE every know and then.
 
My current favourite setup is a Trijicon TR24 with a cattail for really quick magnification adjustments.

It doesn't leave room for NVD, but not a huge issue for me right now (need to find me a PEQ-2 first... or a PEQ-15!).
 
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