Oiling the Lee Pro 1000

cbabes

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I know it is recommended to oil every moving part in the Lee Pro every few thousand rounds or if it is not used for a couple of weeks. Seems like a stupid question as all moving parts should be obvious but say for instance the shell plate, it moves so should I oil under it? I don't want the primers to contact the oil right? Could someone with experience oiling the Lee Pro shed some light on what places to oil and what places I should never oil?

Thanks In Advance!
 
I don't oil under the shell plate, because then the spilled powder will build up in there. When it is dry under there it just falls out.
 
I just found it helpful to tear it apart and clean it. I also found that if you clean the main shaft often and lube it with something it helps. I work hard at not missing the primer but every once in a while I miss and that powder causes grief and it does build up interfering with the spring to let the primer down.

Great thread as I am curious as well.

I have to go now and clean my press as I loaded about 500 rounds yeasterday and its not working anymore. :eek:
 
I been using Hope 9 gun oil on the cylinder and the rod shaft that goes threw the carrier for 15 years and never had any problems i always wipe and clean the shaft and cylinder after every 250 rounds with no ill effects .Loaded 1000's of rounds and still like new..
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have read two books, Lynman 49th and Lee's Newest Edition, taken one of my reloaders completely apart(does it ever help when you have a second one that is fully assembled to refer back to! LOL) and bought everything I need to reload 9mm and .45. I am ready to take the plunge. Going to reload only 100 rounds of each caliber first and take them to the range to see how good I did. Wish me luck, I can't afford a new hand or a new gun so I am being extra carefull!
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have read two books, Lynman 49th and Lee's Newest Edition, taken one of my reloaders completely apart(does it ever help when you have a second one that is fully assembled to refer back to! LOL) and bought everything I need to reload 9mm and .45. I am ready to take the plunge. Going to reload only 100 rounds of each caliber first and take them to the range to see how good I did. Wish me luck, I can't afford a new hand or a new gun so I am being extra carefull!

FWIW, the first 100 rounds of .45 ACP I reloaded on the 1000 gave me 8 squibs. Make sure you do a full stroke! Currently, I have an inspection mirror standing upright by the bullet station and angled so I can check for a powder charge (also helpful to detect double charges as well once you learn the approximate level of the powder charge you're using). Works great on 9mm as well and not so good on .357 because of the height of the case so I do it 'manually'. It slows down the rounds/hour but it's not a race for me and I don't want any accidents.....Good Luck!! :cool: :)
 
I oil under the shellplate, the shaft and at the axles on the arm. I've never had problem with oil in my primers. Parts need adjusting every now and again to keep it moving smooth and I tear it apart and clean about every 3000 rounds or so.

30,000+ rounds and still going strong.

**The only part I would never oil is the primer slide, it needs to be dry. I clean it with a dry q-tip every now and again and lube with graphite (though it's not really necessary)
 
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