ok, stupid question, but ...
- Thread starter Bulldog
- Start date
I just bought a do-hicky from Stoney Point
most people tell me my riflescopes look crooked
here's the link to what I bought, Its easy to use
http://www.stoneypoint.com/sight_lines_index.html
Probably the best way would be a level on the receiver/base, and one on top of the scope
most people tell me my riflescopes look crooked
here's the link to what I bought, Its easy to use
http://www.stoneypoint.com/sight_lines_index.html
Probably the best way would be a level on the receiver/base, and one on top of the scope
There is a rig that references off the top of the scope base, another off the bolt lugways. There is an easy way to check if the scope is true. Set up a tall target, a piece of shelf paper will work. Put an aiming point toward the bottom, with a vertical line running to the top. Use a plumb line to insure that the vertical line is actually vertical. Fire a group at the aiming mark. Crank the scope way up, 20 or 30 minutes. Fire another group. If the group is exactly on the verticle line, you know that everything is true, and there isn't going to be a serious zero shift at longer ranges.
That is a popular gunshop game. Mount a scope, hand it to someone, ask if the scope is on straight. Reset. Let someone else look through it. Repeat. Can go on forever. If you use one of the indexing jigs, and KNOW that the crosshairs are absolutely square with some mechanical reference point, the scope is still likely going to look slightly rotated, because of how you hold the rifle. If you check the elevation tracking on a range, you can be sure that the scope is mounted in a functionally correct manner.
I first leveled an action using a level and then installed a scope leveling the cross hair on target that I had installed level.... once the crosshair and the action were level I placed a bore sighter in the muzzle. Looking through the scope at the bore sighter grid, I leveled the bore sighter to the scope. I then placed a level on top of the boresighter and epoxied it in place. Once the epoxy had set I removed the boresighter....
Now to mount a scope level, I simply level the rifle in the vice, insert the bore sighter level, and level the scope to it....
Now to mount a scope level, I simply level the rifle in the vice, insert the bore sighter level, and level the scope to it....
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Mounting a scope
My method is cheaper and uses the age old principle of gravity.
Mount your scope, go out to the range, set the rifle in a proper mount and check that the mount/rifle are level using a spirit level. If you are using a bipod make sure that the table/bipod is level.
Hang a plumbline at 100 yards and align the reticle to the plumbline. You need a calm day or a shrouded target so that the plumbline hangs straight
It worked for the Pyramids!
My method is cheaper and uses the age old principle of gravity.
Mount your scope, go out to the range, set the rifle in a proper mount and check that the mount/rifle are level using a spirit level. If you are using a bipod make sure that the table/bipod is level.
Hang a plumbline at 100 yards and align the reticle to the plumbline. You need a calm day or a shrouded target so that the plumbline hangs straight
It worked for the Pyramids!
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Some time ago, PGW Steve posted what I thought was a good idea - adjust the scope so the vertical wire crosses the center of the cocking piece of the action. I've tried the various winged do-hickies, the plumb-bob trick, the horizon trick, and just lining up the vertical wire with the cocking piece seems to work as well as anything and it's quick. I might have to try the level on the bore sighter though - neat idea.
- Location
- In the clock tower!!
Try this one, I've done it twice now and I think its better than anything I've tried before, (including the above mentioned techniques).
I purchased a B-Square bubble lever (clamps onto the Picatinny rai), this allows the rifle to be leveled in sandbags, then blocked so it does not move.
I then took a laser level which has both horizontal and vertical beams, mounted it on a tripod, then leveled the laser. (It has 3 x bubble levels on the unit so all three were carefully leveled. I then projected the horizontal and vertical laser beams on white background and adjusted to the fines lines available, then verified with a carpenters level).
Now adjust scope in rings so that crosshairs match, then torque rings to setting.
Sounds a little complicated but its not, was fast, easy, and best I can tell the most accurate job of scope leveling I have done thus far.
I purchased a B-Square bubble lever (clamps onto the Picatinny rai), this allows the rifle to be leveled in sandbags, then blocked so it does not move.
I then took a laser level which has both horizontal and vertical beams, mounted it on a tripod, then leveled the laser. (It has 3 x bubble levels on the unit so all three were carefully leveled. I then projected the horizontal and vertical laser beams on white background and adjusted to the fines lines available, then verified with a carpenters level).
Now adjust scope in rings so that crosshairs match, then torque rings to setting.
Sounds a little complicated but its not, was fast, easy, and best I can tell the most accurate job of scope leveling I have done thus far.
