Ok to use 304 SS screws in carbon steel receiver?

Thanks. Decided to replace receiver screws with a more durable stainless variety.

If you think that 304 is more durable than carbon steel you are misguided. They are less than half the strength of Grade 8 Socket Cap Screws. They also have a tendency to gall, which could cause serious problems for you.
 
If you think that 304 is more durable than carbon steel you are misguided. They are less than half the strength of Grade 8 Socket Cap Screws. They also have a tendency to gall, which could cause serious problems for you.
I would second this and add that a copper based anti-seize is typically used to prevent galling and galvanic corrosion of these two varieties of steel.
 
op,
as mentioned any 300 sereies stainless is NOT your best option.

300 series stainless is non magnetic....good...but is not heat treatable....bad.

anti seize of any color was never designed as an anti galling lubricant.
designed for the plating & heat treat industries.....ONLY.
 
anti seize of any color was never designed as an anti galling lubricant.
designed for the plating & heat treat industries.....ONLY.
LOCTITE® LB 8008 C5-A anti-seize lubricant paste is packaged in a brush top can, with copper and graphite suspended in a high quality grease. Applications include screws, nuts, pipes, exhaust bolts and brake caliper bolts. Resistant to extremely high temperatures (up to +980°C) and protects from rust, corrosion, galling and seizing. It has an NLGI Grade of 0.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/anti-seize-lubricants/loctite_lb_8008_c5-a.html

There are many products used for masking in the plating industry, I have never seen anti-seize used. as for heat treating the burn off would make a mess unless only used during the tempering stage.
 
Loctite also helps with corrosion if you have issues with screws coming loose. They have light stuff it`s purple if i recall correctly. Blue would be max to use . Don`t use green or red.
 
As far a galling stainless is concerned... I worked part time helping a welder friend on a big job he had to complete... it involved a lot of stainless bolts and locking nuts... every one was assembled with Anti Seize... if you didn't - the chance of the nut galling and breaking the end of the bolt was very high.
 
It's no problem, and if you're stripping the threads or the heads there's a torque/operator issue... I've used 18-8(304) screws on my steel actions like the Barnard for my TR/FTR for years. Yes a good quality steel bolt will be stronger but with the torque levels used on most rifles parts/accessories neither should be a problem.
Galling is mainly an issue when mating 2 materials of the same hardness, stainless on stainless can certainly be a big problem but stainless on steel generally isn't. Aluminium on aluminium can be a real problem too...

About 98% of what I manufacture 7 days a week is 316ss and many other flavors of stainless/duplex, 625, 718 inconel etc, some units have to be assembled without the use of any loctite or anti-seize due to contamination issues(nuclear work or such..) all stainless on stainless, yes it can be a effing nightmare, but with extra care and cleanliness it gets done. Yes you should use anti-seize or loctite whenever required or possible, but I generally don't use either for my stainless on steel applications.
 
Thanks all. There's so many conflicting opinions on this matter. My research has lead me to believe, as noted by SND above, that stainless into carbon steel should be fine. I will coat the threads just in case. No nuts, just a 3M stainless screw into a steel receiver. We see lots of stainless barrels into carbon steel receivers, and doesn't Ruger use a stainless bolt with their super hard cast receivers?
 
It's like new jewellery.
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I have carbon steel screws on order as well.

If anybody needs SS or Carbon 3M countersunk Allen screws, I have plenty in 8, 10, 12, and 16 mm !
 

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