old Dominion 303 ammo

xcaribooer

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I came across a very old box of Dominion/CIL 303 British SP 180gr cartridges.On the box it states that the cartridges have a MV of 2540 fps. This is quite a bit faster than new factory 303 ammo at 2460 fps.
Just wondering what recipe a guy would use to duplicate this performance if handloading. and is it a safe load..
 
Take the bullet out of the cartridge and weigh ... weigh the powder ... copy load in new brass, bullets ... ;)

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA

P.S. I'm just learning myself about loads, re-loading, etc ... it's fun ... :D
 
And why is that 90fps that important?:confused: Has some animal learned to run that fast?:p Is it going to alter 303 ballistic significantly?

Just sayin'.
 
Do Not Do This!

Take the bullet out of the cartridge and weigh ... weigh the powder ... copy load in new brass, bullets ... ;)

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA

P.S. I'm just learning myself about loads, re-loading, etc ... it's fun ... :D

NO...NO..ABSOLUTELY NO

DO NOT DO THIS. Yes, you can dis-assemble a cartridge to see what is in it, if you do it carefully.

However, it is ABSOLUTELY INSANE to think you can identify the powder used in factory cartridges. Factory cartridges are generally loaded with powder that is not available to reloaders........the burning rates are different.

When powder is made, no one really knows the burning rate. It is tested in a lab to see how fast it burns. The powder company then notifies the manufacturer that it has X number of pounds of this powder, that it burns at such-and-such a rate, and suggested cartridge suitability. The Ammunition manufacturer then can buy it, and set his machines accordingly to give a certain pressure and velocity.

You can not identify the powder by looking at it!

Another example of powder is Hercules Red Dot powder. There are actually 10 grades of Red Dot, depending upon burning rate. Only one grade is released to shotgun reloaders, thus the burning rate of each lot available to the reloader is similar. The other NINE grades are sold to ammunition companies and are not available to the handloader. However, all are known as Red Dot shotgun powder.

It is a very dangerous thing to disassemble a cartridge, and substitute a powder for a factory powder that you know absolutely nothing about. If you are wrong, (and you will be), you can blow up the rifle by using a faster burning powder. You have 50,000 pounds per square inch of pressure just 6 inches in front of your nose. If you guess wrong, you will have a new ornament in your nose...it is called a rifle bolt.......providing you survive.

YOU HAVE A LOT TO LEARN ABOUT RELOADING CARTRIDGES. GET SOME GOOD RELOADING BOOKS AND READ THEM.

I have been reloading for over half a century, and your advice is one of the worst I have ever heard. It is dangerous, irresponsible, and could easily get someone killed.
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Agree with the guys above, it is such a very dangerous practice to swap powders.
More, these commercial cartridges are now considered as collector's items.
 
Like Buffdog said....

I worked at the CIL ammo plant in Brownsburg, where we made that box of ammo. I guarantee the powder in that case is not a canister powder sold to reloaders.

The velocity quoted was the velocity out of our SAAMI spec test barrel. It may not be similar to the barrel on your rifle.

If you reload, use a suitable powder to develop a load that shoots well in your rifle. I would nto try to go after that last 100 fps because it is so hard on the brass.
 
The Canadian Industries Ltd (Imperial and Dominion) products were usually hotter than most US made counterparts (in many caliber, though).
The .303 Brit, 8X57IS etc were loaded to approach the CIP level, thanks to the mother Co., ICI (UK), wich was providing it's own experience with these calibers. Also, in the US, there was (and still is) the risks of being sued if something bad happened (we all know the US lawyers system....).
 
Pick up a loading manual or try handloads.com.

Find a load that will give you what you want with known components. Fire off the factory ammo and you have once fired brass.

If you just have to know the MV you can buy a small cheap chrony for $150 or so. It will last you a lifetime (or until you put a round through it.)
 
Reloading ammunition

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While reloading ammunition is a worthwhile part of our shooting hobby, it is a relatively simple process. We reload ammunition to save money, to improve our own rifles performance, to taylor a load for a specific instance, and to improve accuracy of OUR rifles.

While this process is simple, there are a great number of factors that affect the reloading of ammunition.

First is the condition of YOUR rifle. Some design of actions are not as strong as others, and using the .303 as an example, loads that a P-14 (strong action) will digest could wreck a Lee Enfield (weaker action.) Even in the Lee-Enfields, a No.4 action is generally accepted as stronger than an earlier No.1 Mark III, or even earlier Lee-Metfords....all of which take a .303 cartridge. Rough bores have more friction, and raise pressures. Even ammunition companies in North America download cartridges such as the 7x57 Mauser because of the possibility of someone using one in a weak action Remington Rolling block, or the 8x57 Mauser because of older rifles with a smaller bore size (.318) versus the later .323 bore.

Temperature and altitude are other factors. A safe load developed in the Arctic could be an overload in southern Alberta in August, due to a hotter temperature. Substituting components such as primers (which have different burning characteristics), powder (which has different burning rates) and bullets (even in the same weight, some bullets have more bore surface area than others and can cause more pressure.) Cartridge cases from different manufacturers can vary in internal capacity. Add to this, the age of components, especially primers and powder. Even the same powder can vary in burning rate from Lot to Lot, although it has the same name or number on the can. Loads with 4831 powder (IMR) are generally hotter and faster than loads with H-4831 (Hogdon) powder, even though both are labeled 4831. Bore condition (smooth versus rough and pitted) can cause pressure changes, and using the .303 again, although the bore specifications is .312 average, some wartime ones have gone up to .318 diameter. your barrel can even have a tight spot in the bore, a long leade or freebore, a tight or oversize chamber, and other factors. These are just a few common things that affect a cartridges performance.

On the other hand, a game animal does not care if it gets hit with a 150 grain bullet out of a 30-06 or a .308. If it is hit in the right place, it will go down, even though the 30-06 is about 100 fps faster. A lot of us are too enamored with speed.

It is no good having something going like a bat out of hell if you can not hit anything with it. Only hits count. Accuracy, not speed, is what counts.

When you reload, you can custom make cartridges that provide better accuracy in YOUR rifle. Reloading is fun, and testing loads to get the top performance from YOUR rifle is a great way to get to know what your rifle will do, and enhance its performance. However, just because a load works in YOUR rifle does not say that it will work as well in your buddys rifle. Rifles are like fingerprints.....they are different. THE BIG THING, THE NUMBER ONE THING IN RELOADING, IS SAFETY, SAFETY, AND MORE SAFETY.

Be sensible, work your loads up slowly, keep good records, and enjoy the hobby of reloading.
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