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I just started reloading some 9mm luger ammo today and ran into a few cases where the spent primers insisted on sticking to the end of the ejector pin and then catching on the pocket as the pin was withdrawn. Only a few did this and I caught most of them by the lack of the primer fall sound and the funny feel to the seating. But a few snuck through so now I need to run them through the bullet puller that I still need to buy.
This is the second time I've run into this issue. The first was with a replacement pin I had to make for another die set when I managed to break the old one by indexing the plate while it was lifted up for some crazy reason during the die setup. The new one was doing this fairly consistently with the .38Spl cases until I put a much more rounded shape on the nose. This new problem pin seems a little worn and flat on the end so I guess I've got the same problem
I'm wondering if there's a "best shape" for the end of the ejector pin. Is a half spherical shape the best one or should I try stoning this new problem pin to more of an egg shape?
The only time that I've encountered this was sizing and decapping military .223 with crimped primers using RCBS dies.
Perhaps it could be the material that you're using to make your pins is too soft and its developing a point. KD
Had this happen to me a couple times but the primer usually falls off on the downstroke. Must be sticking pretty hard to actually pull them back into the primer pockets.
Joe, this is a stock Dillon die set I'm working with at the moment. I think we may have a "BINGO" with your experience to back up my own. I guess I'll go with the smooth polished half sphere again since it did the trick for my other die and for you as well.
Dixda, the one I did used some hobby shop music wire as a replacement pin. That's pretty tough stuff. Also it worked fine for many hundreds of rounds once I put the half spherical shape onto it. No signs of wear yet. In all the cases where I've manipulated it I've been sure to put a fine polished finish onto the shape as I expected that if it were too rough it could hold the metal. But apparently a flat'ish nose with rounded corners manages to dig in an hold well enough to just barely pinch the primer into the mouth of the casing before it lets go of the pin. From there the primer seating stroke finishs the job and seats the spent primer in fine style using the new primer as the anvil....
One thing I've definetly learned from my reloading so far. It takes a HECK of a lot of abuse to set off a primer. I have yet to do so despite inadvertently crushing them, bending them and other modes of torture and destruction. I've even pushed good primers out of a few bad cases after emptying the primer loader, putting away the powder and wearing gloves, a leather jacket and safety glasses. No issues at all. I tried a couple of these "salvaged" primers in proper cases with no powder or bullets just "primer only" in a gun to make sure they still go off. No issues there either. They really are quite tough little so and so's... And yes, they are a LOT louder than the old red paper cap guns we had as kids
