Older Auto 5 choke question.

miff

miff

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Hey guys,
Quick question here about my 1953 FN Auto 5. Its got a poly choke on it but after I unscrewed it to clean the thing because it was getting really gummy and wouldn't open/close properly. The rubber gasket fell apart so now when I screw it back on tight it over turns and the bead is off center. I would love to get this old gun choked permanently to modified and start shooting smaller steel shot #4 max out of it so I can use it for ducks and geese. I know there will be lots of nah sayers about steel through this barrel but I've heard lots of people say its fine as long as its not full and your arn't shooting larger shot. My real question is How much would getting this done be on average I would imagine they would need to cut the end of the barrel a bit to get rid of the outer threads and choke it and then put a bead on it. Any feedback would be appreciated. This gun is not a safe queen it is my go to field gun I'f I could shoot not toxic shot out of this I will never need another scatter gun for anything that flies.
 
Rubber gaskets will do that. I suspect having another changeable choke put on will cost less and be easier to get done. Epp's does that for $100 plus the cost of the tubes.
I'd talk to Precision Arms in King City(literally across Steeles Ave from TO) as well. They're shotgun specialists. They'll confirm the steel shot thing too. Add the W's. .precisionarms.ca
 
Ya but new steel shot in cupped very well down the barrel also they were being very conservative to save themselves grief from people who shot #2 steel through a full choke and were like wtf happened here.
 
miff said:
Ya but new steel shot in cupped very well down the barrel also they were being very conservative to save themselves grief from people who shot #2 steel through a full choke and were like wtf happened here.
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Na not that at all. The gun in 1953 was not designed for the pressures and the hardness of steel shot and even the best shot cups they will still cut through and wear the barrels since they are softer than the shot.
Big issue is it devalues the gun big time but you say it is not in collectors condition so no biggy here.
It is like drive a 1953 chevy on unleaded gas. Works great so they all said yes until some years later when their heads were screwed in the valves, guides and seats since the lead was needed for lubrication.
Same here unless they see the usual barrel bulge all is good but really one is slowly killing the gun with the extra stresses and just cannot see it yet. Some are even now saying they are seeing stress cracks in stocks now after using steel for some time
For sure don't cut that barrel until a smith sees it since you may not have an option to even install a choke tube. Many are too thin.
Cheers

good example of a A5 bulge
 
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Thanks for the imput 3macs1...Maybe I will just try and clean up my poly choke and get a new gasket for it to align my bead. I guess I can just shoot bismuth if I really needed too, expensive yes, but I dont duck hunt that much so its always an option right.
 
miff said:
Thanks for the imput 3macs1...Maybe I will just try and clean up my poly choke and get a new gasket for it to align my bead. I guess I can just shoot bismuth if I really needed too, expensive yes, but I dont duck hunt that much so its always an option right.
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Using the poly choke with a new ring is by far your best and cheapest option
I'm pretty sure some of the boys here shoot small diameter steel through their poly chokes on the a5 so hopefully they will chime in and give some feedback which I cannot
I only have one a5 and it is a real nice sweet 16 so no way in hell will that puppy ever see steel
If yours is just a shooter and not collectable maybe the wear etc you can live with if that is indeed the only damage possible but I don't know that
Yes bismuth is fine but also a cheap pump designed for steel can be had for a few hundred bucks

I would contact poly choke and ask what the gasket/ ring is and where to get one. They will probally mail one to you
http://www.poly-choke.com/choke.htm
Cheers
 
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I have a few Poly Choked guns and I don't know where a "rubber Gasket" would be. If your choke body has loosened from where it is threaded to the barrel just clean the threads real well and add some red Loctite. Make sure your bead is top dead centre and let the Loctite set up. ideally this should be silver soldered but I have seen a few that were loctited and stand up well. Your Poly Choke ( I assume it is a brand name Poly Choke, some people call any collet type choke a Poly Choke) will easily handle steel shot up to #2. Try to find the lower velocity steel loads as they are little kinder to older guns. Keep it set at IMP MOD or looser. There is no need to use FULL and it does beat the device a little.

Darryl
 
Your barrel has no choke at all, it was removed when the adjustable choke was added... the constriction is all done by the adjustable choke on the end... so you can shoot steel shot very successfully if you open the constriction to improved cylinder... steel shot does not require much constriction to give excellent patterns.

SHOTGUN BARREL ALTERATIONS FOR STEEL SHOT

Forcing Cone Alteration:

Factory shotgun barrels usually have a fairly short and abrupt forcing cone. The forcing cone is the tapered area just ahead of the chamber where the shell is contained. Altering the forcing cone, so it is one and one half or two inches in length, reduces recoil and improves the pattern density. Trap shooters and skeet shooters have been doing this for many years. It is a good benefit to the steel shot user as well.

Choke Alteration:
Choke designation from the tightest to the most open are:
Extra Full, Full, Improved Modified, Modified, Skeet II, Improved Cylinder, Skeet I, and Cylinder Bore.

Steel shot does not require the constriction that lead shot needs, to produce good patterns. In fact too much constriction, causes poor, erratic patterns, and in some cases, permanently damages the barrel. I have seen barrels bulged at the choke, I have seen barrels where the choke split right open, from using steel shot.

For steel shot, with thin barrels, chokes should be altered to at least Skeet II. Often, over & under, and side-by-side shotguns, are best altered to Skeet I and Skeet II chokes. Heavier barrels can be left at Modified choke but may see an improvement in the pattern if opened slightly.
 
Awesome info and advice guys. I just didn't know enough about these collet style chokes to understand that the restriction is completely in the choke and not in the barrel itself. So with that said tonight I'm going to clean it and get it so it can adjust properly and then locktite it in place, cheap fix and now I can feel safe shooting steel out of this old girl. Absoluty love this shotgun was my first shotgun and second gun purchase and needless to say i'm very pleased with the design and function. Stripping and cleaning it was another story lots of small parts in that chunk of steel.
 
If you can find some Winchester Dry Lock #2 or #4 2 3/4" steel loads @ 1 1/4 oz your gun will perform well. Think Home H--dware they carry a lot of Winchester ammo. These loads are also a little slower than the 1550 fps stuff out there so they are easier on your gun.

Darryl
 
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