?? on spot blueing Winchester steel

Pre-1898

Pre-1898

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I have a nice little winchester model 62A and someone had drilled some holes in the side of the barrel to mount a scope. I had the holes blocked by screws then filed them flush with the barrel in order to hide them ( was very unsightly) My gunsmith did a beautiful job and the are barely noticeable. the only thing the spot bluing does not seems to hold very well . I tried some bluing solution and after a few rub with a rag it wipes OFF. If it was not for that no one could ever tell there was holes there.

Shall I send the whole barrel for hot re-bluing, or can I buy some better bluing solution that will stay ?

Any help appreciated !
 
Pre-1898 said:
I have a nice little winchester model 62A and someone had drilled some holes in the side of the barrel to mount a scope. I had the holes blocked by screws then filed them flush with the barrel in order to hide them ( was very unsightly) My gunsmith did a beautiful job and the are barely noticeable. the only thing the spot bluing does not seems to hold very well . I tried some bluing solution and after a few rub with a rag it wipes OFF. If it was not for that no one could ever tell there was holes there.

Shall I send the whole barrel for hot re-bluing, or can I buy some better bluing solution that will stay ?

Any help appreciated !
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I once filled a bunch of holes on an old 22 I had, cleaned it up real nice, polished and reblued the whole rifle... it came out great except for every hole I had filled, perfect little bight circles of stainless looking at me... somehow the steel I had used was stainless...

Hopefully that is not what you have... but in order to blue properly the steel used is important...
 
The steel used when the gun was manufactured is way different than the steel plugs you have used. To the collectors, the holes will always be visible and if just for your own gathering, they are about the best you will get them.Been there.... did that
 
The screws and the surrounding steel immediately turns to a dark black as soon it touches the blueing solution but as soon I rub it to shine with oil after having neutralized the solution with water the blue is slowly rubing off to leave the area gray. Just like if the steel was not absorbing the solution deep enough. Maybe a hot tub would do the trick ? I wish not to sell it as a collectors piece (or selling it period) The barrel as been professionally shortened and re-crowned so no longer as a collector value. But I would like the two spot to blend with the rest more than possible.
 
"...neutralized the solution with water..." No water is involved with cold bluing. Don't rub with oil either. Just put a bit of oil on the screws after bluing. Make sure you completely degreased 'em before applying the clod bluing too. Assuming you don't have SS screws.
 
sunray said:
"...neutralized the solution with water..." No water is involved with cold bluing. Don't rub with oil either. Just put a bit of oil on the screws after bluing. Make sure you completely degreased 'em before applying the clod bluing too. Assuming you don't have SS screws.
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Will try it that way (without water). The screws are holding the blue much better than the barrel so they are not stainless. the problem is the barrel steel itself it does not seem to assimilate the blueing solution.
 
Remove all the wood, and heat the area, hot enough that water will boil off, then blue it while still hot.
A heat gun is perfect, but a propane torch will also work. Don't get too carried away with the heating, but get it quite hot.
Bluing takes much better when hot.
 
John Y Cannuck said:
Remove all the wood, and heat the area, hot enough that water will boil off, then blue it while still hot.
A heat gun is perfect, but a propane torch will also work. Don't get too carried away with the heating, but get it quite hot.
Bluing takes much better when hot.
Click to expand...

:D:D:D Thanks J Y C for your valuable advise ! Did exactly what you said and it did the trick ! Am a '' Happy Puppy'' now !

Thanks again !!!
 
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