On the fence on 338LM or 300 Win Mag

m_falafel

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I already have multiple .223’s… One 6.5 Creedmoor also. I’m willing to buy a heavy hitter for the longest range possible. Don’t have any other reason than because I want one. Part of why I want one is because I already lost my chance to get a .50 bmg since the OIC… At first I was sold on the 338LM, but since I’ve started researching the subject, I’ve read multiple sources stating that the US military mostly went with 300 Win Mag’s with heavy bullets in 230gr. One source even compares this load favorably with most 338LM loads.

Since reloading for 338LM seems to be about 3 times costlier than for a quality and heavy 300 win mag, I’m starting to wonder what I’d like most and even if I’d notice the difference. Also, I like shooting my firearms so the cost of using it definitely is a factor.

I’d like to have opinions of people who know more about these mind of firearms. I was mostly look at the Savages Precision or Elite Precision models. Maybe even the Savage 110 Tactical if I went for the 300 Win Mag since it seems way more portable.
 
OP - perhaps spend some time with ballistics tables? An acquaintance was using a 338 EDGE for out to 1000 yard gongs. Now he uses 142 (?) grain 6.5x55 - same B.C., same muzzle velocity, so same trajectory - if your objective is to make a hole way out there, do not really need a boomer for that. I suspect the USA military shooters are into MORE than just making contact - likely why they want the bigger momentum of the heavier bullet - but if that is not what you are doing, why beat the crap out of yourself and your bank account?
 
I'm in the same boat, I've decided on a 300 win mag for ammo prices alone. If you can't stack the ammo affordablly and easily you will not be getting much use out of your firearm. Probably gonna put out a wtb for a bar stalker in 300 win mag
 
If you are going 30 caliber I'd consider 300PRC .

I thought about it, but I’m far more likely to stumble upon cheap or free 300 win mag brass if I’m to go for the cheaper ammo option. Plus, I can always buy the cheapest hunting round at my lgs and re-use the brass.


OP - perhaps spend some time with ballistics tables? An acquaintance was using a 338 EDGE for out to 1000 yard gongs. Now he uses 142 (?) grain 6.5x55 - same B.C., same muzzle velocity, so same trajectory - if your objective is to make a hole way out there, do not really need a boomer for that. I suspect the USA military shooters are into MORE than just making contact - likely why they want the bigger momentum of the heavier bullet - but if that is not what you are doing, why beat the crap out of yourself and your bank account?

Like I said, I already have a 6.5 Creedmoor which stays supersonic up to 1200m. If I only wanna “make contact” far away without beating myself, I’ll take that. I only dream of something aggressive the same way I want a 1000hp modded Shelby GT500.
 
If you're trying to decide between .330WM and 338LM, (unless you need the energy that the .338 projectiles give you) you should really be looking at 300PRC or 300 Norma Mag. Both of which are way cheaper to run than a .338 and often outperform the 338 inside 2000 yards anyways (granted with less energy on target but realistically more energy than you'll ever need. My .300NM still has 1000 ft/lbs at 1600 yards). If you're going to build a rile from the ground up, I'd suggest the 300NM as it has a bit more performance than the 300PRC. If you're looking at just buying a rifle (vs having one built) that kinda rules out the 300NM unless you get an AI or Barrett, I think, but there are lots of rifles chambered in 300PRC available and good, precision ammo for 300 PRC is arguably easier to find than the same for the 300WM. In this day and age, there's no reason to get a 300WM unless you already have a bunch of brass and dies as the 300PRC does the same thing but was designed for precision from the outset.
 
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If you're trying to decide between .330WM and 338LM, (unless you need the energy that the .338 projectiles give you) you should really be looking at 300PRC or 300 Norma Mag. Both of which are way cheaper to run than a .338 and often outperform the 338 inside 2000 yards anyways (granted with less energy on target but realistically more energy than you'll ever need. My .330NM still has 1000 ft/lbs at 1600 yards). If you're going to build a rile from the ground up, I'd suggest the 300NM as it has a bit more performance than the 300PRC. If you're looking at just buying a rifle (vs having one built) that kinda rules out the 300NM unless you get an AI or Barrett, I think, but there are lots of rifles chambered in 300PRC available and good, precision ammo for 300 PRC is arguably easier to find than the same for the 300WM. In this day and age, there's no reason to get a 300WM unless you already have a bunch of brass and dies as the 300PRC does the thing but was designed for precision from the outset.

Agreed. The other thing is going to be hard to find a factory rifle in 300 Win Mag that will have a faster than 10 twist barrel, which you need to get the most out of 230 gr projectiles. I have not looked at the assorted 300 PRC factory offerings but would hope the makers use 9 twist barrels minimally.
 
Hi,
wow great comments here, I wanted a large calibre " moose gun" for hunting, I am really not enthused about taking a shot from more than 500 yards out (lets face reality, as in the forest, you will not be able to "thread the needle" over long distances.
I looked at a lot of the same items listed here, almost went with the Norma, but won a savage 110 bolt action win mag 300 with a stink bid at an auction a few years ago, it has the accu trigger, which I really like, I see these for sale around $800 or less
now and again. a buddy of mine has a browning semi auto win mag 300, he really likes it,,,

I love the flat shooting, ammo prices are reasonable vs some other choices and availability has never really been a problem. Recoil really isnt to bad, I have one of those "limb savers" the firearm itself is maybe 8 lbs with my scope (just a 3 x 9) I
just use it on hunting trips, dont really shoot it for paper... I am told a drawback of the savage 110 is you can burn out the barrel at 1,000 or so rounds (I did not get a "bull barrel" as It was an auction) so I shoot a couple rounds each year to "site in"
In 5 years of going on the moose hunt, I have not fired a shot. (my buddies managed to get lucky on 2 of the 5 years I have gone... this year, nobody is likely to draw a tag grrrrr)
 
If you need an accurate boomer, go 300NM and toss out your budget whining. Budget and accurate boomer do not co-exist. A pea shooter with the same bc and velocity will be very difficult to spot splash. Like talking up your larger than average manhood, it only works until you are forced to whip it out to prove your statements.
 
30-378 or 338-378 would be pretty extreme as far as 30 and 338 cals go. The 338lm would be sweet too. Everyone has a 300wm. Probably for good reason but a little boring. I've always wanted a 7mm stw for a long range rifle.
 
I have both a 300 prc and a 338 norma. I absolutely love my 338 norma, so easy to load for.

If I were to do it again I'd probably go 300 Norma just for availability of supplies. It's not much more than the 300 WM but much more capable.

Brass is a little pricier and a little more powder per shot but I think you'll be happier in the end.

the only reason to go 338 Lapua is if you really want the cartridge for some reason. There is plenty of better ones. 338 Lapua is pricey and outdated IMO
 
The 300 Norma Mag is a barrel burner, allegedly.

+1 for the 300prc.

Any 30cal magnum is gonna be a barrel burner if you push it at all. Sure the norma is a bit more so than the PRC but they'll both be pretty close, especially if you're trying to get norma performance out of your PRC. PRC might get you a few hundred more rounds. You'll still have spent many times the cost of re-barrelling on ammo to get to the point that it's burnt out...
 
Any 30cal magnum is gonna be a barrel burner if you push it at all. Sure the norma is a bit more so than the PRC but they'll both be pretty close, especially if you're trying to get norma performance out of your PRC. PRC might get you a few hundred more rounds. You'll still have spent many times the cost of re-barrelling on ammo to get to the point that it's burnt out...

Plus OP said in his original post he's going for boom. 300 NM wins that hands down. Most guys buying a gun for this purpose will not be firing enough rounds out of it to consider burning out a barrel anyways. How many guys out there actually shoot more than 1000 rnds of rifle a year? The circle gets pretty small in Canada at those "higher" numbers.
 
If you're trying to decide between .330WM and 338LM, (unless you need the energy that the .338 projectiles give you) you should really be looking at 300PRC or 300 Norma Mag. Both of which are way cheaper to run than a .338 and often outperform the 338 inside 2000 yards anyways (granted with less energy on target but realistically more energy than you'll ever need. My .330NM still has 1000 ft/lbs at 1600 yards). If you're going to build a rile from the ground up, I'd suggest the 300NM as it has a bit more performance than the 300PRC. If you're looking at just buying a rifle (vs having one built) that kinda rules out the 300NM unless you get an AI or Barrett, I think, but there are lots of rifles chambered in 300PRC available and good, precision ammo for 300 PRC is arguably easier to find than the same for the 300WM. In this day and age, there's no reason to get a 300WM unless you already have a bunch of brass and dies as the 300PRC does the thing but was designed for precision from the outset.

THIS

338LM is hellishly expensive to feed.
 
Only if you buy factory ammo for the 338LM.
If you reload the 338 isn't radically more expensive per round than a 300 PRC.
I have a 338 Lapua and 300 PRC, I have components on hand for 1000+ rounds of both (all but primers were purchased fairly recently), I did the math. The first firing on 338 Lapua brass is over $7/rd, and drops signifcantly as you get more firings on the brass. Everyone thinks the brass is the biggest cost delta, it isn't unless you're a low volume shooter. $5/pc for 338 brass averages down to $0.50/rd after 10 firings (1000rds per box of brass). Most people get 15 loadings or more, even loaded hot, so a single box of brass can go a long way. My 300 PRC Lapua brass averages down to $0.23/piece of brass after 10 firings, which is only 27 cents/round less at 1000 rounds. The bullets, however, are the biggest delta - high BC 338 bullets are $0.70+ more each. If you can find them. 10gr more powder is only ~$0.10/rd more for the 338.

None of these ELR boomers are cheap to shoot, so you should be sure you want one before pulling the trigger.

My opinion - go 300 norma. It's the flattest to a mile, and has less recoil than the 338. If you burn out the barrel and are still bitten by the ELR bug, you have the bolt face to jump up to a 338LM improved or 33XC. Cartridges capable of pushing the 300s to 3k+.
 
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