one quick question
- Thread starter Ammoguy
- Start date
There are three kinds of knobs:
On a hunting scope, I slack off the flat knob and turn it to read "0".
On a target knob I slack off the grub screws, pull it off and then slip it on so that the O line is on the pointer and the edge of the cap is flush with a horizontal line on the turret barrel.
On a ranging knob, I pull it off and slip it on so that the correct range is on the pointer.
In the firtst picture you can see that the "0" on the elevation knob has been set so the the turrret cap is just slightly above a horizontal line. This can be written down and noted as 3-0 (the third horizontal line, and 0) If I came up 2 minutes, it would be noted a 3-2.
You might wonder why 4 horizontal lines are showing, but I call it line 3. Think of a ruler. The first line is 0. I do it this way because some of my scopes have numbered horizontal lines and they number the first line 0.
The wind knob on the Super Sniper is numbered 1 to 14 and then back to 0. 15 minutss to the revolution. This means that 3 minutes of right wind shows as 3, but 3 minutes of left wind shows as 12. In a match I sometimes got confused and then turned the knob the wrong way. As you can see, I wrapped the knob with a piece of paper with the wind adjustemnts going in both directions. Red is for left wind, green for right.
The second scope has an elevation knob calibrated in yards. After zeroing at 300 yards, I just slipped it off and re-installed with it lined up at 300. The parallex knob was also adjusted and then set to read 300.
On any target scope elevation knob and any wind knob it is possible to have the knob set to the right number but be out by a full revolution. This is typically a 10 to 15 minute error and results in a miss and some consternation.
I cheat. Although the lines are not visble in this picture, each of my scopes has a pencilled line drawn on the turret barrel, just under the lip of the knob. A regular pencil leaves a clear line. I draw a line to show where the knob should be for 300 yards and for 0 wind. If I cannot see the line when I think I am on 0 wind, I know my knob is out by a revolution.
On a hunting scope, I slack off the flat knob and turn it to read "0".
On a target knob I slack off the grub screws, pull it off and then slip it on so that the O line is on the pointer and the edge of the cap is flush with a horizontal line on the turret barrel.
On a ranging knob, I pull it off and slip it on so that the correct range is on the pointer.
In the firtst picture you can see that the "0" on the elevation knob has been set so the the turrret cap is just slightly above a horizontal line. This can be written down and noted as 3-0 (the third horizontal line, and 0) If I came up 2 minutes, it would be noted a 3-2.
You might wonder why 4 horizontal lines are showing, but I call it line 3. Think of a ruler. The first line is 0. I do it this way because some of my scopes have numbered horizontal lines and they number the first line 0.
The wind knob on the Super Sniper is numbered 1 to 14 and then back to 0. 15 minutss to the revolution. This means that 3 minutes of right wind shows as 3, but 3 minutes of left wind shows as 12. In a match I sometimes got confused and then turned the knob the wrong way. As you can see, I wrapped the knob with a piece of paper with the wind adjustemnts going in both directions. Red is for left wind, green for right.
The second scope has an elevation knob calibrated in yards. After zeroing at 300 yards, I just slipped it off and re-installed with it lined up at 300. The parallex knob was also adjusted and then set to read 300.
On any target scope elevation knob and any wind knob it is possible to have the knob set to the right number but be out by a full revolution. This is typically a 10 to 15 minute error and results in a miss and some consternation.
I cheat. Although the lines are not visble in this picture, each of my scopes has a pencilled line drawn on the turret barrel, just under the lip of the knob. A regular pencil leaves a clear line. I draw a line to show where the knob should be for 300 yards and for 0 wind. If I cannot see the line when I think I am on 0 wind, I know my knob is out by a revolution.
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Ditto here - your zero is your baseline for making the any further adjustments, since you know that 0/0 on elev/wind turrets (knobs) means bullseye @100m with no crosswind, as is the case with my scope.
Do yourself a favor and test your scope adjustments a the range you shoot. ie if sited for 100m and you crank your scope up to shoot at 300 fire your shots at a target and keep records you may be suprised at the difference between reality and paper ballistics on you rifle.
