opinions on what is fouled vs. clean

marlin60

marlin60

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We all appreciate a little fouling will settle down center fire rifles when it comes to consistency.

But if I shoot 10-50 rounds at the range, and then run a few patches of CLP through the barrel when I get home, does that constitute removing the fouling.

I hate the thought of the residue left in the barrel to suck up moisture. I don't brush or use any copper solvents.. just 2 or 3 light CLP patches.

Would you still consider this bore 'fouled'.
 
Yes.
You removed a little powder residue, but, assuming you're shooting a modern cartridge with jacketed bullets, you still have copper fouling, possibly layers of it from previous sessions, and powder fouling between.
 
This topic comes up a lot for good reason.
I used to be a cleaning machine, however i realized more and more its not needed as much as i once did it.
I have rifles that will shoot 300 plus rounds before accuracy suffers and some more.
I also have percision rifles 6mm PPC's that perfer a clean bore vs a slightly fouled one.
My verdict right or wrong shoot your rifles until you see a huge difference in accuracy.
I simply wet patch a few and dry patch a few give it a coat of oil and a few more dry patches, and put the gun away.
Next time out a few shots into the bank and your ready to go!

If its really fouled I used to scrub, bt i have not done that for some time I use a real strong cleaner like sweets!7.61 and soak it, and than patch it out over until the blue is gone.
I just do not see the point of bruching and scrubbing a barrel down anymore!!
But i used to.
Whats right or wrong!!! but, this is what i do.
 
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you still need the copper solvents to remove the traces of copper that EACH bullet LEAVES IN THE RIFLING- why you're cleaning without something like HOPPES 9 or sweets , or any of the "standard " bore cleaners is beyond me- THEY'RE BUILT FOR A PURPOSE, and that purpose is to remove fouling- hoppes does copper, lead and nitro-powder- typically, what i'll do after a session- doesn't matter how many rounds, as you're going to put the gun away, is mop with bore cleaner, then bore brush and patch till it comes clean- then oil
 
Cleaning is over-rated. If the accuracy starts to fall off then it is time to clean. Each barrel is different. CLP will not remove copper fouling and there are much better products out there than Hoppe's.
A good quality one piece cleaning rod and proper fitting brass jag and patches with a good solvent works wonders. If you feel the need to use a bore brush get a nylon one.
 
t-star said:
you still need the copper solvents to remove the traces of copper that EACH bullet LEAVES IN THE RIFLING- why you're cleaning without something like HOPPES 9 or sweets , or any of the "standard " bore cleaners is beyond me- THEY'RE BUILT FOR A PURPOSE, and that purpose is to remove fouling- hoppes does copper, lead and nitro-powder- typically, what i'll do after a session- doesn't matter how many rounds, as you're going to put the gun away, is mop with bore cleaner, then bore brush and patch till it comes clean- then oil
Click to expand...

But I don't want to clean it to the metal every time.

I do that on occasion, after a substantial number of rounds (don't shoot it often, or more than 30-40 rounds at a time.. sometimes much fewer).

I just want to keep it from rusting, and maintain the fouling so each session is consistent.

I am wondering if this light cleaning affects groups.

The first few rounds are not as tight as the last few rounds for each range visit, but I blame myself, and the time it takes to get in the 'groove', as I don't shoot it often enough.
 
Any rust preventative will affect the 'fouling' in the bore. There is no way to get around that.

My solution would be to do as you have but take some powder solvent and run a couple of patches through the next time out. This solvent is to get rid of the rust preventive NOT to clean the bore. Dry patch well. Take a couple of fouling shots and then shoot for group.

I shoot in a very dry climate so I can store my rifles without any preservative without fear of rust. That allows me to have an in group cold barrel shot. If you need to keep rust away, fouling shots will be necessary.

Jerry

PS as for amount of cleaning, clean until accuracy is restored. It is alot less then many think. Then clean only when accuracy is lost. For many pipes, that can easily go over 50rds. YMMV
 
I read somewhere...I think it was on the Pacnor site ... it is recommended to follow any use of copper solvents with a couple of patches of rubbing alcohol...to neutralize the ammonia....dry...and oil. Any "chemist" out there that can comment on "neutalizing agents"?
A clean barrel can't hurt...
 
Set up 5 targets like this 1 2 3 4 5 .
Clean rifle and lightly oil.
Fire one shot at each of the 5 targets.
Clean rifle and lightly oil.
Fire one shot at each of the 5 targets.
Clean rifle and lightly oil.
Fire one shot at each of the 5 targets.
Clean rifle and lightly oil.


Now you know the poi of your rifle from cold oiled barrel to a fouled 5th shot.




(I got this out of this months F-F-G)
 
I used to clean with chemicals like Sweets after each day's shooting. After switching to stainless barrels i found that not much came out, which spoiled the fun.

Now I clean only after serveral hundred shots, and cannot be sure it helps anything.

If a rifle takes a number of shots to get back in the groove, cleaning may cost a few points. I like putting the rifle away warm and dirty and taking it out the next day to pick up where I left off.

The other problem with claning is that there is a danger of getting some solvent under the action, on the bedding. This will open groups.

I think it important that rifle be stored muzzle down, so any solvent or oil runs out the muzzle, not back into the action, bedding and trigger.

When noting the feedback on this issue, note that blue barels foul more than stainless, and need to be cleaned more often.
 
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