- Location
- Ol' North Shore
Hi there! Started to notice my oprod guide on my norc m14 is loose. I know I should simply insert a larger roll pin. I dont have any right now so is there an alternative fix? thanx love the forum
Oprod guide fix
- Thread starter Beaner1976
- Start date
remove the pin, slide the oprod guide forward. dimple the surface all around with a center punch or fine chisel..... couple drops red loctite, slide and tap oprod guide back in place, approximately line up and insert one more drop loctite into pin hole. Insert and drive in pin. instal oprod, ensure that it lines up dead center with piston... tap guide to adjust. Once you have it all lined up..... don't touch it for 24 hours to allow the loctite to set. once complete you have accomplished match conditioning of your oprod guide and proper timing/alignment of your piston to oprod 
.... easy as pie
lil trick when moving the parts on your barrel..... wrap one layer of electricians tape around barrel so as to protect the parkerized finish while handling and mucking about with tools
.... easy as pie lil trick when moving the parts on your barrel..... wrap one layer of electricians tape around barrel so as to protect the parkerized finish while handling and mucking about with tools
- Location
- Ol' North Shore
So I can use the same pin then. Right on lots of loctite kickin around. thankyou!!!
unless the pin gets destroyed while removing.... i have had a few that were brittle and snapped in half length wise..... quick trip to Rona with the part in hand and i was good to go.
I now have a very comprehensive selection of both USGI aresenal roll pin packs and a wack of em from the hard ware store.... never know when yer gonna need a roll pin
just be sure to dimple the surface the oprrod guide sits on, evenly all around, you want to raise the surface evenly so the when you go to re install the guide.... it takes effort to tap it into place. I use a hardwood block on the part, and hit the block with a finishing hammer, manipulating the guide back into position. DO NOT dimple in the slot on the barrel the pin goes into.
I have several rifles here requiring the same fix and will be getting to them in the very near future. This is one of those "do it yerself" jobs that improves the function and reliability of yer chinese m14 .... or any m14 type rifle for that matter. I'll try and get some step by step pics and narrative up and maybe this can become a sticky
I now have a very comprehensive selection of both USGI aresenal roll pin packs and a wack of em from the hard ware store.... never know when yer gonna need a roll pin
just be sure to dimple the surface the oprrod guide sits on, evenly all around, you want to raise the surface evenly so the when you go to re install the guide.... it takes effort to tap it into place. I use a hardwood block on the part, and hit the block with a finishing hammer, manipulating the guide back into position. DO NOT dimple in the slot on the barrel the pin goes into.
I have several rifles here requiring the same fix and will be getting to them in the very near future. This is one of those "do it yerself" jobs that improves the function and reliability of yer chinese m14 .... or any m14 type rifle for that matter. I'll try and get some step by step pics and narrative up and maybe this can become a sticky
- Location
- Ol' North Shore
I'm gonna get a roll pin or two before attempting then. Cant go to bed with my m14 all to pieces lol. peace
After I staked my barrel to make the guide fit tight I re used the norc roll pin and drove a smaller one through the center to tighten it up even more.
I'm not sure what size I used but it came straight out of a princess auto roll pin assortment. None of the roll pins in the kit fit tightly by itself.
I'm not sure what size I used but it came straight out of a princess auto roll pin assortment. None of the roll pins in the kit fit tightly by itself.
Rather than dimpling the barrel, I used steel shim stock. I mic'ed the barrel and the i.d. of the guide, divided by 2 and cut a strip that went about 75% of the way around the diameter of the barrel. I wrapped the shim around the barrel and tapped the guide back down into place. It was super tight before I even put in the roll pin.
Dimpling the barrel IS the approved way to do it. I just couldn't do that to my Fulton Armory NM barrel. My mind would not let my hands do it. Maybe 30 years in the machinist trade has done something to me. I don't like fixing things with a hammer. My alternate approach worked out perfectly for me. I would consider knurling it but didn't have the means to do that.
And once again, dimpling the barrel is the approved way to tighten up the ring.
And once again, dimpling the barrel is the approved way to tighten up the ring.
Likewise
I couldnt do it either even though I knew it was the "accepted way" so I also shimmed - but it worked because the op rod guide is bolted to both sides of the inside of my aluminum sage clone stock. My current build I'm doing for someone is going into a g.i. fiberglass so I will hammer away - at least its not my rifle LOL !
I couldnt do it either even though I knew it was the "accepted way" so I also shimmed - but it worked because the op rod guide is bolted to both sides of the inside of my aluminum sage clone stock. My current build I'm doing for someone is going into a g.i. fiberglass so I will hammer away - at least its not my rifle LOL !
- Location
- Ol' North Shore
Funny theres no other way. Well here I go with the punch. Wish me luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
have no fear....
dimpling or knurling the oprod guide bearing surface is an accepted method.... the recomended method actually. You are in no danger of damaging your rifle.
A tool that works very well for this job is a pen type auto centerpunch. I make lines of 6 punch marks in a muzzle to chamber direction evenly spaced..... and do this in even space "rows" approx 1/16 apart, all the way around the barrel's oprod guide surface. The punch marks don't need to be deep, but they should distort the surface enough that the oprod guide needs effort to re-install.
This dimpling or distorting method can also be safely used in replace of shims for tightening the gas assembly.... I'm not getting into that one hehehe
and for minimalizing or negating rotational play in the gas assembly by applying punch marks or chisel marks along the barrel splines accordingly.
Katana and I have renewed discussions on completing our "home gunsmith" M14 dvd...... hopefully our schedules will permit getting this done before summer rolls in.
dimpling or knurling the oprod guide bearing surface is an accepted method.... the recomended method actually. You are in no danger of damaging your rifle.
A tool that works very well for this job is a pen type auto centerpunch. I make lines of 6 punch marks in a muzzle to chamber direction evenly spaced..... and do this in even space "rows" approx 1/16 apart, all the way around the barrel's oprod guide surface. The punch marks don't need to be deep, but they should distort the surface enough that the oprod guide needs effort to re-install.
This dimpling or distorting method can also be safely used in replace of shims for tightening the gas assembly.... I'm not getting into that one hehehe
and for minimalizing or negating rotational play in the gas assembly by applying punch marks or chisel marks along the barrel splines accordingly.
Katana and I have renewed discussions on completing our "home gunsmith" M14 dvd...... hopefully our schedules will permit getting this done before summer rolls in.
Shim ? - No !
So my shim works in a sage clone -
GOOD !
Do not shim in a normal stock. I tried it - super tight shim on the op rod guide,but after just a few rounds, cycling and recoil torque shifted the guide out of time and caused the op rod to drag on the barrel stopping cycling. Time for the lock tight and punch !
So my shim works in a sage clone -
GOOD !
Do not shim in a normal stock. I tried it - super tight shim on the op rod guide,but after just a few rounds, cycling and recoil torque shifted the guide out of time and caused the op rod to drag on the barrel stopping cycling. Time for the lock tight and punch !
