Over timed muzzle device... What next?

Canadiankeeper

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Im thinking just order a new crush washer? I dont want to over torque the specs of the threads. It is only about 5 Deg over timed...

I dont think I will feel it or notice it... My ocd is tripping though.
 
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Get a new crush washer, or double up?

I had to buy a non-indexable device one time cause my OCD hated the double crush washer fix.


PS... Inside arms heathen.... awesome....
 
Definitely new crush washer. They're cheaper than dirt! Lol if your OCD is tingling now, would just adding a second crush washer make things any better?

Definitely don't just heave it around another full rev...
 
Get a new crush washer, or double up?

I had to buy a non-indexable device one time cause my OCD hated the double crush washer fix.


PS... Inside arms heathen.... awesome....

Ok time to order up some peel washers I think.

I know! I have seen it but the whole reason I went with the muzzle device I did was for a blast shield so I dont piss off my hunting buddies and range pals lol
 
Orderd 3 crush washers. Should be able to get it perfect with 3 lol

If I shoot with a slightly off timed muzzle device what negatives am I looking at ?
 
Orderd 3 crush washers. Should be able to get it perfect with 3 lol

If I shoot with a slightly off timed muzzle device what negatives am I looking at ?

Depends on the muzzle device... If it only directs gasses sideways/back (Equally on both sides), none really. If it directs gasses upwards, it would cause a likely un-noticeable lateral movement opposite the direction the ports are pointing.

10 degrees is not much...
 
Depends on the muzzle device... If it only directs gasses sideways/back (Equally on both sides), none really. If it directs gasses upwards, it would cause a likely un-noticeable lateral movement opposite the direction the ports are pointing.

10 degrees is not much...

Got out the laser line... Its about 5 degree or less... its just not PERFECTLY centered with the top circular ports of my device...
 
Got out the laser line... Its about 5 degree or less... its just not PERFECTLY centered with the top circular ports of my device...

For reference- The Accu-Washer system uses a series of 18 solid washers, with varying thickness (about .002" increments), so that each washer allows the brake to be tightened to a different orientation.

The spacing between them works out to 20 degrees of rotation...
 
I used the Accuwasher set on my AR before getting a Surefire brake that came with shims. They worked great and weren't hard to use.

In industry we use shim washers for critical adjustments like this on die-sets and molds. This is the correct way to do it.
 
A quick fix would be to remove the brake and set it on a bench or on top of a vice. Take a hammer and a center punch and mark the end that will screw up against the barrel. If you put 3 or 4 punch marks on it, you should be able to re-install the brake with out any problems.
 
For reference- The Accu-Washer system uses a series of 18 solid washers, with varying thickness (about .002" increments), so that each washer allows the brake to be tightened to a different orientation.

The spacing between them works out to 20 degrees of rotation...

While it pains me to spend that much for a glorified pack of washers the PA accu-washer sets are worth it.
 
Im thinking just order a new crush washer? I dont want to over torque the specs of the threads. It is only about 5 Deg over timed...

I dont think I will feel it or notice it... My ocd is tripping though.

What do you mean by "over-timed"?

I tested my AR and found I had to set the top of the brake to about 1;30 to keep the sight picture. (Right handed)

If your brake is at 11:00, that is not good.
 
Ok. If you want the brake to keep the sights on target, brake should be at around 20 degrees.

Is it a semi-auto?

If so, it is easy to find the correct setting for the way you hold and shoulder your rifle.

Put an aiming mark on a large shoot of paper. (newspaper will work) Fire two shots at the aiming mark as fast as you can pull the trigger.

The second shot will show where the muzzle goes, on recoil.

Fire a few at 12:00 and mark shot #2 with a 12.

Then set it to 1:00 and repeat. Mark the #2s with a 1:00

Then set it to 2:00 and repeat. Mark the #2s with a 2:00


From this you may decide to test 12;30 or 1:30.

When you are done, use the setting that gets the shot#2 closest to the aiming mark. For me it is around 1;30.

Have you looked at the muzzle of Russian guns? The muzzle brake has a detent for either 11 or 1.
 
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