ghostntheshell
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- GTA ONTARIO
Ok guy, I'm looking for non-permanent methods of squeezing a little more accuracy and came by this:
I glassed a Type 56 once and it gave good results.However I found an even simpler fix that has worked on every SKS I've tried it on and no chance of getting it locked into the stock with glass! IF your rifle has no drastic side to side play in the bedding, the most common defect is fore and aft play.Grab the barrel and stock and push/pull the barrel back and forth( not up and down).There is generaly some movement and as you use it it gets worse.That heavy bolt assembly slamming back and forth beats up the wood at the rear tang( the stud/spring that the trigger group snaps on to).Hence the additional stock bolts on some rifles.Take some sticky address labels( the kind that every charitable org. sends you) trim for width and start layering them on the back of the tang until the fit is tight.You want the front of the reciever to be hard against the stock bolt.Paper doesn't compress much and it doesn't alter a rifle in any way.This procedure has cut groups in half on most every SKS I've worked on.Its simpler than glass and if it works for you you could then glass it if you wish.Just be VERY careful for lock points such as pin holes etc.Fill them with beeswax.One thing to keep an eye out for is the locking shoulder.Its a seperate piece fitted to the reciever and its the part the bolt bears on when its in battery.Sometimes the ends stick out alittle past the sides of the reciever and if so it will result in the reciever/barrel being locked into the stock when glassed. I know it sounds silly but try the labels.I've yet to be disappointed by the results.Another thing is leave your bayonet on and make sure it fits TIGHT against the nose cap.Also be sure it doesn't contact wood in its mortice.I'm convinced it acts like a tuning fork as the many Yugos,Chicoms,Romy's and Russians I've had all shot better with the bayonet on.You're not taking things too far by any means.The SKS is a fine design hampered by sloppy fitting.I had a Type 56 that shot reloads int 4 inches at 200 yards and a Russian that scared hell out of an inch and a half at 100 all day.Shoot them with the same care and skill as you would a "better" rifle and the humble SKS WILL reward you.
I'm just wondering if anyone knows where exactly this fella is saying to put the paper to get the fit tight. I'd ask him but it was from another board I found, and I didn't want to join just to raise an old thread.
Cheers!
I glassed a Type 56 once and it gave good results.However I found an even simpler fix that has worked on every SKS I've tried it on and no chance of getting it locked into the stock with glass! IF your rifle has no drastic side to side play in the bedding, the most common defect is fore and aft play.Grab the barrel and stock and push/pull the barrel back and forth( not up and down).There is generaly some movement and as you use it it gets worse.That heavy bolt assembly slamming back and forth beats up the wood at the rear tang( the stud/spring that the trigger group snaps on to).Hence the additional stock bolts on some rifles.Take some sticky address labels( the kind that every charitable org. sends you) trim for width and start layering them on the back of the tang until the fit is tight.You want the front of the reciever to be hard against the stock bolt.Paper doesn't compress much and it doesn't alter a rifle in any way.This procedure has cut groups in half on most every SKS I've worked on.Its simpler than glass and if it works for you you could then glass it if you wish.Just be VERY careful for lock points such as pin holes etc.Fill them with beeswax.One thing to keep an eye out for is the locking shoulder.Its a seperate piece fitted to the reciever and its the part the bolt bears on when its in battery.Sometimes the ends stick out alittle past the sides of the reciever and if so it will result in the reciever/barrel being locked into the stock when glassed. I know it sounds silly but try the labels.I've yet to be disappointed by the results.Another thing is leave your bayonet on and make sure it fits TIGHT against the nose cap.Also be sure it doesn't contact wood in its mortice.I'm convinced it acts like a tuning fork as the many Yugos,Chicoms,Romy's and Russians I've had all shot better with the bayonet on.You're not taking things too far by any means.The SKS is a fine design hampered by sloppy fitting.I had a Type 56 that shot reloads int 4 inches at 200 yards and a Russian that scared hell out of an inch and a half at 100 all day.Shoot them with the same care and skill as you would a "better" rifle and the humble SKS WILL reward you.
I'm just wondering if anyone knows where exactly this fella is saying to put the paper to get the fit tight. I'd ask him but it was from another board I found, and I didn't want to join just to raise an old thread.
Cheers!
