Paper Patching for the .303 British

Boolitcaster

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I had been casting bullets for not very long, when I read an article on Texasboars.com. The writer was using a Ruger #1 in some large caliber and he was shooting paper patched cast lead bullets. What caught my attention was that he was shooting cast bullets at jacketed velocity. Right then, I decided that I would have to give paper patching a try.

I had some early successes at bullet casting, but paper patching taught me humility. I visited the paper patching page everyday on Castboolets.com and asked questions. Then I would ignore the advice and go home and try to re-invent the wheel. I have just passed my 5 month anniversary from when I decided to wrap a wet piece of paper around a piece of lead and a few things have changed.

I am now paper patching by the instructions given me by the people who have forged the path before me. No, I still am not getting sub MOA groups at 100 meters. I am, however, getting accuracy that would be perfectly acceptable in deer season, with a bullet that has cost me almost nothing.
I have been paper patching for a No 1Mk 3 Lee Enfield and and Ruger #1, both in .303.

I will continue to refine this skill until I have taken it as far as I can.
I just though I would share this with you and I welcome any questions.

10-Oct-2011

A list of things I tried on my own that worked, kind of worked and didn't work:

1) Trying to shoot paper patched .308 cast bullets, with out sizing them down first.

This was pretty much a fail. I put a lot of effort into this venture, because I am not a metal worker and I did not want to special order a sizing die to match my bore diameter plus .001"

The only paper that I could find around the house was the same shopping receipts that I had successfully used to paper patch .308 jacketed bullets. Even with this thin paper, I could not get two full wraps around a cast bullet or I was close to .319", so patched bullet would not even fit in the cartridge case. I tried to cheat and did one and a half wraps. These loads worked well with a plinking load of 6.5 grains of HS-6, but were grouping at 4 inches with a bhn 25 hard cast bullet at 25 meters and would not even hit the 12" X 12" target most of the time when shooting soft lead in a full power load. I also found the paper wrapping was not surviving the trip down the barrel and I was getting leading at the muzzle when the soft lead bullets were used.

2) By not buying a final sizing die, limiting myself to a few types of paper.

Once, I bought the .304 sizing die, and started patching with a more suitable paper, I began to get reasonable groups. I was now able to patch lined notebook paper to .316". These bullets would fit in the cases for the Ruger but not the Lee Enfield. Now with the hard cast, I was getting 2.5" groups at 50 meters and 4" groups with pure soft lead. With a small game load of HS-6, I was now putting the bullets in the same hole at 50 meters using both soft and hard lead.

3) Once properly sized my paper patched bullets removed residual lead from previous oops, as well as copper fouling and other crud. Shoot enough and you will have a nice shiny bore. A big success!

4) after my initial investment, my only expenses have been powder and primers.

Run down of investment including casting supplies:

Casting pot: $1.00 - bought at second hand store
Ladle: About $9.00 - EBay
Stove: Free - Side burner off a dead barbecue destined for the scrap yard.
Lee .308 diameter mold 180 grain: $34.00 after shipping from a crappy internet store.
Custom .304 die - About $40.00 with shipping from California.
Lee universal neck expanding die - Guessing? around $28.00 from Higginson Powders.
Lee .314 sizing die - $ About $40.00 with shipping.

Total = $152.00

I am not including the reloading press, powder or primers as that would be associated with loading jacketed ammunition as well. (I did buy .303 dies, but I have only used them for loading commercial jacketed ammo. The same is true for my case trimmer.

The Process

paperpatching001.jpg


On the right is the Lee 180 grain .308 bullets as cast.
In the middle the same size bullets after sizing down to .304. Notice that the lead from the raised bands has been pushed back obscuring the gas check recess.
On the left are the sized bullets after paper patching.

paperpatching002.jpg


Cut patches and template with Lee 180 grain bullet for scale.

There are a number of different ways to paper patch. This is what I do.

I take a patch and soak it between two folds of a wet facecloth. Once it is soaked through I place it on a flat board and make sure it is smoothed out so it adheres to the surface a bit. The bullet is wrapped as tight as possible with out the paper tearing. Once wrapped, I twist the tail in the direction of the wrap and set the bullet aside to dry. As the patches dry onto the bullets they will shrink and harden so that they will not unwrap without some determined effort. The next day, when I am sure the paper is dry, I snip the tails off with a set of sharp side cutters.

Here is a good example of patching from Youtube.. He has a slightly different technique than I use, but this is a skill you have to teach your fingers. On my first attempt it took an hour to roll just a few. Now I can patch bullets in front of the TV without too much conscious thought.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1DmoZnYIQE&NR=1
 
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Hi boolitcaster, I myself have been casting for 10 years now and still haven't tried paper patching.

Can you post some instruction on this forum? Others may find it informative as well,
any help is appreciated.

brnolvr
 
Some use teflon plumber's tape to both avoid leading while getting higher velocities.Make sure the direction of wrap tightend with the direction of rifling............never tried it myself but have a chapter in a cast bullet book from Wolff Publishing.Can use .308 jacketed wrapped in a .303.................Harold
 
Hi boolitcaster, I myself have been casting for 10 years now and still haven't tried paper patching.

Can you post some instruction on this forum? Others may find it informative as well,
any help is appreciated.

brnolvr

I will describe what I have learned so far. It has been a long journey, so I will try to keep to the high points. Later, if I can figure out how to post photos, I will add some pics.
 
Some use teflon plumber's tape to both avoid leading while getting higher velocities.Make sure the direction of wrap tightend with the direction of rifling............never tried it myself but have a chapter in a cast bullet book from Wolff Publishing.Can use .308 jacketed wrapped in a .303.................Harold

Your post rang a bell. I have a article/hard copy I got from hs4570, a shooting buddy, on that topic. It's titled Patching Cast Bullets with Teflon by Curtis L. Wilson and from a 1986 publication of Handloader.
 
Some use teflon plumber's tape to both avoid leading while getting higher velocities.Make sure the direction of wrap tightend with the direction of rifling............never tried it myself but have a chapter in a cast bullet book from Wolff Publishing.Can use .308 jacketed wrapped in a .303.................Harold

I have not used teflon tape, but I have wrapped .308 jacketed bullets in the thermal paper from shopping receipts. They measured .315 after wrapping and were just as accurate as my jacketed .313s.
I have heard that residual teflon can remain in the barrel after firing, causing a more difficult cleanup. I don't know if it is true, but I went with the paper. It is very hard to find a paper thin enough to wrap a jacketed .308 bullet. Cast lead is quite forgiving as it will (technical term) squish. I am nervous about the increased pressures involved in wrapping jacketed bullets and would not risk going over the correct bullet size with paper by more than .002"
 
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Hi boolitcaster, I myself have been casting for 10 years now and still haven't tried paper patching.

Can you post some instruction on this forum? Others may find it informative as well,
any help is appreciated.

brnolvr

I am plagiarizing from a recent pp post on Castboolets.com.

Here's a good quote from Pdawg:

"Slug your bore and size the cast bullet to BORE size +.001/.0015. Give it 2 wraps of 16# paper. Let dry overnight. Clip tails, lube, (I use BAC bot most anything will work), size GROOVE diameter or as large as will fit the throat. Load and shoot. Pure lead will work to around 2200fps. WW, air cooled to about 2500fps and a BHN of over 16 will handle 3000fps. You can start with jacketed starting loads and work up from there. Lyman 311414 and 311284 work great. I size min to .304 and load over AA2495 in the 303 Brit."

Everything you need to know in one paragraph for loading the .303 British with PP boolits. The other basics will be a good starting guide for most other calibers as well. Size to about a thousandth or two over bore, two wraps of 16# paper will add about .010" which gives just over groove diameter in most rifles. Size if needed, lube the patch with BAC or similar (I use Felix lube that's about the same consistency as BAC), and load them to engrave the patch firmly when chambering. Not much else to add!

End quote -

It seems every rifle has a personality when it comes to paper patching. You just have to find the right combination of cast bullet, paper and technique.

For my Ruger, I had a special sizing die made to reduce a .309 cast bullet to .304. I then wrap it to approx .316"
I am currently waiting for a Lee .314 sizing kit to arrive so that I can do a final sizing before loading. Up until now, I have been loading patched bullets wrapped for a snug fit in a case fired from the same gun. My Ruger has a large diameter chamber, (.316") so the bullet has had to squish a bit when fired into the .313 bore. Accuracy has been best with harder alloys, but I don't own a chronograph and may be pushing the soft lead bullets a bit fast.
I have not used any .303 reloading dies and have been using an old Lee Loader in 30-06 to neck down the case so that the bullet is snug when hand seated into the case. I use slower powders such as IMR 4350 or 4832 that fill the case to the base of the bullet.
 
Thanks Zuke,

When my .314 sizing die comes in, I will be trying a greater variety of paper types. I will be sure that I give the onionskin a try.

I understand that 25% cotton rag paper is supposed to be much better for paper patching than the straight wood pulp papers. I will try that as well.

Being cheap, I have tried to use paper that I had around the house. This has not worked that well and I have probably spent far more on primers and powder than I would have spent on some good paper. My greatest handicap in the beginning was a lack of the correct sizing dies, which really limits what paper can be used.
 
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A writer from G+A magazine had an oddball .275 H+H that needed .288" diameter bullets and he paper patched .284's to work in it.Good results.I'm thinking .308 220gr wrapped for a .303 for close range moose +bear...........Harold
 
A writer from G+A magazine had an oddball .275 H+H that needed .288" diameter bullets and he paper patched .284's to work in it.Good results.I'm thinking .308 220gr wrapped for a .303 for close range moose +bear...........Harold

With a careful workup to ensure you do not have too much load for your gun,...it should work. If using an Enfield, you would have to be extra careful not to load such a big bullet too hot.

You said close range, so I am thinking that you have already considered those points.
 
Hi boolitcaster, I myself have been casting for 10 years now and still haven't tried paper patching.

Can you post some instruction on this forum? Others may find it informative as well,
any help is appreciated.

brnolvr

Instructions, photos and a video now attached to my first post.
Later I will describe the loading process and spend some time at the range.
 
I'm using the Onion Skin paper that Zuke mentioned with great results in my 45/70 Guide Gun with a 1-4 x 20 Leupold. It is important to cut your patches oriented to the grain of the paper such that the patch tightens onto the bullet as it dries.

I'm using an RCBS 405 gas check bullet that ends up .001" over groove diameter when wrapped and sized. Cast from air cooled WW.

It shoots just at 1 MOA and I can smack the 8" gong at our 200 yard range with it every time. Lots of fun and the bore just gets shinier.

One thing I'll mention is that crimping the cartridge was a big no-no for me. I started off with loads that I crimped (Lee Factory Crimp die) and the groups were huge. I then tried some with no crimp and with the seating die set to just remove the flare from the case mouth and instantly got reliable 1 MOA groups. I assume the crimp was tearing the patch upon firing.

This is with a full power load of 48gn RL 7, the actual weight of the wrapped bullet ends up around 415gn. Velocity is around 1850fps. I also load this same bullet with 14gn of Blue Dot for a very pleasant plinking load moving around 1000fps. This is also quite accurate but I don't recall what size groups I got with it. I usually shoot off hand with this load and haven't shot paper with it in a while.

This is a gas check design but no gas check is used. Also, I'm folding the base of the patch under the base of the bullet with the center of the bullet base left exposed instead of twisting a tail and clipping it (easy to do on a 45 cal). When stood on the base and left to dry, the fold holds nicely while being handled.

By way of comparison, I get .9 MOA groups with Cast Performance 420 gn WLFN's with the same load. This is a lubed / gas checked bullet.

I love the shower of confetti and the smell of burnt paper....
 
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I love the shower of confetti and the smell of burnt paper....

Hi TwoTone,

Yes, I have found anything more than a gentle taper crimp to be a bad thing when paper patching.

Today, I tried out 7 loads, all with IMR 4831. It is probably not the best powder for the application, but it is the powder that I have the most of and I am trying to use it up before getting something better. With the Lee C-309-180R mould I had previously cast a bunch or pure lead bullets. Today, I ran loads from 26 grains through 39 grains. At 39 grains, The projectile was sitting right on the powder when seated. I also shot 3 commercially cast 165 grain .309 bullets which have a BH number of 25. All bullets today were sized down to .304 with dish soap as lube, were washed off and then patched. In all loads except 1, the paper used was lined notebook paper. I did buy some onion skin paper and gave two wraps of that a try. Using the onion skin, the dried patched bullet measured .31284. (Hmmm, a potential paper bullet for the 7.62 X 54R?) I will try the onion skin again later with another wrap, or I will try patching a .309 with onion skin and then sizing it down to .314 using my favorite paste floor wax was as a lube. As expected, the undersized onion skin bullets performed very poorly in my Ruger. Two rounds missed the target completely.
One thing I discovered today, is that the barrel has to be "seasoned" with a couple of paper patched rounds before getting decent groups. If I wiped out the bore, my groups tripled in size. I have no idea why. As the 4831 was leaving unburned powder kernels in the barrel, I satisfied myself with shaking out the loose kernels and kept shooting. Once the barrel was prepared, I averaged 1.25" to 1.5" between the furthest bullets. These results were with the majority of loads at 50 meters, using 180 and 165 grn bullets pp'd with lined notebook paper. I am not a great marksman, so this is close to the results I get with commercial jacketed. Bullets ranged in hardness from pure lead (BHN 5) to BHN 25 (commercial cast). I think, I am going to stick with bullets in the BHN 8-12 range in future as they seem to work well at the mid range loads for the .303 and still give good expansion for hunting.


Here are some pics from today. I forgot to take a photo of all of the confetti in front of the shooting bench.

LoadingTray.jpg


Copyofpaperpatching004.jpg


paperpatching008.jpg


Copyofpaperpatching005.jpg
 
I'm using the Onion Skin paper that Zuke mentioned with great results in my 45/70 Guide Gun with a 1-4 x 20 Leupold. It is important to cut your patches oriented to the grain of the paper such that the patch tightens onto the bullet as it dries.

I'm using an RCBS 405 gas check bullet that ends up .001" over groove diameter when wrapped and sized. Cast from air cooled WW.

It shoots just at 1 MOA and I can smack the 8" gong at our 200 yard range with it every time. Lots of fun and the bore just gets shinier.

One thing I'll mention is that crimping the cartridge was a big no-no for me. I started off with loads that I crimped (Lee Factory Crimp die) and the groups were huge. I then tried some with no crimp and with the seating die set to just remove the flare from the case mouth and instantly got reliable 1 MOA groups. I assume the crimp was tearing the patch upon firing.

This is with a full power load of 48gn RL 7, the actual weight of the wrapped bullet ends up around 415gn. Velocity is around 1850fps. I also load this same bullet with 14gn of Blue Dot for a very pleasant plinking load moving around 1000fps. This is also quite accurate but I don't recall what size groups I got with it. I usually shoot off hand with this load and haven't shot paper with it in a while.

This is a gas check design but no gas check is used. Also, I'm folding the base of the patch under the base of the bullet with the center of the bullet base left exposed instead of twisting a tail and clipping it (easy to do on a 45 cal). When stood on the base and left to dry, the fold holds nicely while being handled.

By way of comparison, I get .9 MOA groups with Cast Performance 420 gn WLFN's with the same load. This is a lubed / gas checked bullet.

I love the shower of confetti and the smell of burnt paper....

OK, after some testing, I am a new convert to the onionskin crowd. The paper wets and stretches far better than ordinary writing paper and it's being so thin lends itself well to patching a variety of thicknesses.

On my original post I listed the problem of not sizing the bullet first before patching, but with onionskin and a .309 bullet the first sizing is not always necessary to get good accuracy as long as the the bullet is soft enough to swage in the barrel, or depending on the gun, has a final sizing to the correct size.
I have also now found that bore rider style bullets accuracy can be improved further by doing a stepped, 3/4 patch. The fun continues!
 
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