Parkerized finish removal / blueing finish removal

Plink

Plink

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
54   0   0
Location
Having a boating accident.
Going to do some work on a couple of firearms over the Xmas holidays. One has a park'd finish which I want to re-park, as the finish has been marred pretty good from use.
What have you found to be the most effective way to remove a park'd finish? I've read muriatic acid (don't even know where to get that), and others say sand blast. (I have one of those at least)

:confused:


I also have a gun that is blued and I'm going to parkerize. What can you use to remove gun blue that doesn't involve another trip to Ellwood Epps?? (I NEVER get out of there for under $300, so would like to avoid a trip near Xmas if at all possible.. :D )

What do you guys use for a cleaner de-greaser before adding the new finish?
 
My votes for sandblasting with as light a media as you can find. Thats what we do when we re-blue firearms. Gives a matte finish. If you want semi gloss you can wire wheel afterwards, and if you want shiny buff it. Shinier the metal is, the shinier the blue will turn out. As for the park, just blast and dip.
 
Excellent... Guess I'll be sandblasting this weekend!...

One quick question.. I want to do the outside of a shotgun barrel. What do you guys plug the ends with? Cork or dowel maybe? Expansion plug??
 
clrbasic.jpg


This will strip the blueing off in about 30 seconds. I cleaned a rusted shotgun choke with it and the blueing disappeared as well.
 
Use beadblasting (glass beads). It does not do any dimensional change on your metal. It leaves a smoother finish than sand blasing which is too aggressive. You can get bead blasting media at Princess auto. Did my Garand receiver with it.

Muriatic acid can be found at Canadian Tire.
 
Plink said:
I've in some sports where they say that glass beading is NOT the way to go.
Click to expand...

I think your source got it backwards. The aircraft maintenance industry does not recommended sand blasting because if the pressure is too high the metal will be pitted and the metal actually softens. They use bead blasting because the media is softer than the metal but not the old finish. So it will only take the finish off but not any metal.

You can get this information from googling the topic.
 
All the guns we refinish get bead blasted before parkerizing,and I'd bead blast before bluing too.Then buff it out and reblue.If you have a strong parkerizing solution you may be able to parkerize un blasted metal(ie shiny) but it may turn out uneven.
 
I've had super success removing the old blue'd finish with Muriatic Acid (mixed 1:1), keep the water running in the sink, this stuff is dagerous to work with so be safe! Then when it's stripped off and down to the bare metal, in the parkerizing tank she goes!

Plink, I should show you my parkerized 1911 9mm IMBEL (read : Springfield Armory) the next time I see you at BRSC in Kolapore!

Cheers,
Barney
 
I know that if you want to coat it with Gunkote/Duracoat you will have to blast with aluminium oxide to create a "profile" in the metal. That will allow a much more efficent bonding between the coating and the metal. Bead is too soft and will rather polish than create adherence.

But that is for painting, not blueing and parkerizing, which i have never done so I cant tell.

Another thing, use Acetone to degrease, not varsol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom