- Location
- Good Ol' west
How do you go about parkerizing the barrel of the M-305. I have the M-14 clinic dvd but it did not show a barrel being done. where would a find a heating element and a pan big enough.
Parkerizing the barrel on M305
- Thread starter Sam Thompson
- Start date
I used 2 "mud bud" drywall mud trays from Home Depot welded together and put it across 2 elements on the stove. Plugged both ends of the barrel and the gas port and filled the barrel with water. Dropped it into the solution and a few minutes later it looked black as the ace of spades. You could also use a BBQ but heat control isn't that good.
Gunslinger said it all. His method of using 2 burners on the stove is what works for me. I have a 40" long parkerizing tank that I use for barreled actions.
Now for removing the original finish, I have used Muriatic Acid from Canajun Tire and mixed it 1:1 with water, this solution will remove any bluing from existing surfaces or in the case of the M14, the original parderizing colour... you'll end up with a lightly coloured "gun metal grey" hue. Then you are ready to lower the bbl'ed action into the tank. Hopefully, you remembered to plug the barrel with dowels. :mrgreen:
Cheers,
Barney
Now for removing the original finish, I have used Muriatic Acid from Canajun Tire and mixed it 1:1 with water, this solution will remove any bluing from existing surfaces or in the case of the M14, the original parderizing colour... you'll end up with a lightly coloured "gun metal grey" hue. Then you are ready to lower the bbl'ed action into the tank. Hopefully, you remembered to plug the barrel with dowels. :mrgreen:
Cheers,
Barney
Splatter said:
I don't think it would stand up to the acid used in the parkerizing solution and it definately wouldn't stand up to the muriatic acid. The crome may not take the parkerising, but I think it would be all etched to hell from the acid and you would have an easily fouled bore afterwards.
Hitzy:
That sounds good. Let's just play it safe and plug the holes in the barrel with wooden doweling chunks found at Home Depot / Home Hardware. I'm just used to working with Chrome-Moly match barrels and I've always plugged them in the past.
Cheers,
Barney
That sounds good. Let's just play it safe and plug the holes in the barrel with wooden doweling chunks found at Home Depot / Home Hardware. I'm just used to working with Chrome-Moly match barrels and I've always plugged them in the past.
Cheers,
Barney
- Location
- Good Ol' west
do you have to fill the barrel with water or can you leave it dry?
If you left it dry you'd have to hammer the plugs in very tightly, because even with the moderate temperature rise the air pressure will want to pop out.
On the other paw, if one could heat the barrel to the parkerising bath temp, dry, then plug. It should work.
On the other paw, if one could heat the barrel to the parkerising bath temp, dry, then plug. It should work.
- Location
- South Cariboo, BC
For some reason I always assumed the barrel had to be removed from the action prior to parkerizing. That's why I've never done mine before. I'll have to look into getting a tank and do this for a winter project. Are the home depot trays stainless?
Splatter:
About 2 weeks ago, a buddy of mine needed his Rem M700 ADL .223 re-finished. So we re-parked it in my kitchen.
We simply plugged both ends of the barrel and we were good to go. Not a single problem at the (just under boiling) temperature....
I believe the instructions mentioned 160 = 170 degrees Farenheit... just when the tiny- teeny bubbles sharted to appear.
Cheers,
Barney
About 2 weeks ago, a buddy of mine needed his Rem M700 ADL .223 re-finished. So we re-parked it in my kitchen.
We simply plugged both ends of the barrel and we were good to go. Not a single problem at the (just under boiling) temperature....I believe the instructions mentioned 160 = 170 degrees Farenheit... just when the tiny- teeny bubbles sharted to appear.
Cheers,
Barney
