Parkerizing

gnmontey said:
Do it yourself.

These guys sell a easy to use product that produces v-good results. Have used it myself.

www.pjsproducts.com/radocy.htm

See this thread https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1592613-Big-thanks-to-PJ-s-gun-and-metal-care

M
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X2 It's the SS tank for barrels that is the turn off for most people. Small parts, including actions, should not be a problem at all. You can use a SS cooking pot if necessary. Just don't tell your wife of gf.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i'm going to give it a go. Does one have to worry about the reciever threads getting parked or does a guy just not prep that area to prevent the reaction from happening there?
 
R-von said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i'm going to give it a go. Does one have to worry about the reciever threads getting parked or does a guy just not prep that area to prevent the reaction from happening there?
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I think you will need to protect all of the machined surfaces. How you do that is beyond me. Maybe pose the question on the gunsmithing forum?

One thing I learned is that prep is everything when it comes to producing good results. I just did small stuff, flash hider, sights, screws etc.

M
 
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R-von said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i'm going to give it a go. Does one have to worry about the reciever threads getting parked or does a guy just not prep that area to prevent the reaction from happening there?
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I've done mine by sandblasting them bare. I've done up the parkerizing solution in a stainless pot and brought it up to temperature on the kitchen stove. Was very easy and results were great. I blasted and parkerized everything includeing the machined surfaces and thread. I used the radocy stuff and a cheap wal-mart candy thermometer.
 
You could send it to Nick at Vulcan Gun Refinishing in Southern Ontario.

He's busy but he's been hiring more people lately to keep timing reasonable.

Here's a link to his web site.

http://vulcangun.com/

He seems to specialize in WW1 and WW2 stuff, but that is by no means all he does.

He does a lot of Garands for sure.
 
R-von said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i'm going to give it a go. Does one have to worry about the reciever threads getting parked or does a guy just not prep that area to prevent the reaction from happening there?
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I've parkerized many Garand receivers and there is no concern about the receiver threads or any other area of the receiver being parkerized. Its a good idea to go lightly or avoid sandblasting critical operating surfaces on the interior like the receiver bridge and bolt lug seats. I also go lightly on the elevation pinion serrations on the left side of the receiver.

Use a proper parkerizing solution with instructions and avoid DIY "strange brews". An oblong shaped ceramic crock pot makes and excellent parkerizing vessel for Garand receivers and all other parts except for op rods and barrels. Rust/scale/oil/grease removal and surface blasting are critical for success.
 
BadAsMo said:
You could send it to Nick at Vulcan Gun Refinishing in Southern Ontario.

He's busy but he's been hiring more people lately to keep timing reasonable.

Here's a link to his web site.

http://vulcangun.com/

He seems to specialize in WW1 and WW2 stuff, but that is by no means all he does.

He does a lot of Garands for sure.
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Nick has a few park jobs for me....always top notch work
 
purple said:
I've parkerized many Garand receivers and there is no concern about the receiver threads or any other area of the receiver being parkerized. Its a good idea to go lightly or avoid sandblasting critical operating surfaces on the interior like the receiver bridge and bolt lug seats. I also go lightly on the elevation pinion serrations on the left side of the receiver.

Use a proper parkerizing solution with instructions and avoid DIY "strange brews". An oblong shaped ceramic crock pot makes and excellent parkerizing vessel for Garand receivers and all other parts except for op rods and barrels. Rust/scale/oil/grease removal and surface blasting are critical for success.
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Good advice. I've done several receivers using this product. Don't bother sand blasting and don't leave in the boiling solution for an excessive period of time. Should be done in like 1/2 hour max. The real key is to be certain to degrease the part. Be diligent with this and you will have good results. In the past, I've just use a stainless steel pot. Oil afterwards to avoid flash rusting.
 
What about a chrome lined barrel? The original park on my m305 sucks and I'd love to take a shot at refinishing the barrel/ action myself. Getting a tank for me wouldn't be an issue.
 
SuperJohn said:
What about a chrome lined barrel? The original park on my m305 sucks and I'd love to take a shot at refinishing the barrel/ action myself. Getting a tank for me wouldn't be an issue.
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You can throw it right into the solution. Parkerizing will not adhere to chrome. I do M14 and AR barrels all the time and have never had a problem.
The problem for most people when doing a one-off job is the cost of the tanks and blasting station.
 
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SuperJohn said:
Would a wire wheel on a grinder be a decent substitute for sand blasting? Or does the surface of the steel need to be roughed up slightly?
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Blasting activates the metal and gives a clean, even surface for the parkerizing to react with. The park solution is acid based. Blasting is pretty much SOP prior to parkerizing and should be done just prior to immersion so that the metal doesn't have a chance to oxidize. BTW, I do my parkerizing outdoors and use Vulcan do do this and that for me in the winter months. I highly recommend Nick. He blasts before parkerizing and gets a nice, uniform result.
 
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