Pellet Gun ID Help

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Kagey

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First question: what is this?

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The yellow circle seal thing says Made in the USSR.

It took about 5 shots to get one pellet through the barrel. My second question: is it possible to tear this thing apart and repair it back to full strength?

Thanks!
 
It is an inexpesive Soviet-made pellet rifle. It should state the model on the top of the action. I'm guessing it is some version of an IZH-thirty something (it could be IZH-38). Is the barrel clear? rusty? gummed up with oil? If you can get the bolt undone, you can take it apart. I don't think they were ever very powerful. New versions are not very expensive. I'd be surprised if there ever were parts made for these guns. You may have to improvise.
 
There is no print on the rifle except for a serial number and the USSR stamp. This stamp also says (upside down T)J - 22.

Bore is shiny. No rust on any metal. It feels in good working order except for the fact that it doesn't push the pellet through.

Thanks
 
These things had a leather or felt "wad" in front of the piston that worked as a gas sceal. If that sceal is degraded the gun won't generate any significant pressure.

Unscrew the stock, there should be a cross pin at the back of the action once you take that pin out the spring, piston, and sceal will come out.

Really simple mechanism
 
Here is a picture of the seal. It is currently a little crumbly, although it appeared to be intact along the outside edge. Any reason why it is in 2 pieces?
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Would it be practical to find something to replace this with? Also, everything is coated in black dirty grease. If I cleaned everything off, should I lubricate any parts or just run it dry (assuming I can replace the seal on the end of the piston).

Thanks
 
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Actually the seals are leather, and are in two pieces to keep from deforming.
It is a Baikal airgun, made in the USSR.
You can look forward to 600-700 fps with a new seal and a Macarri spring.
The springs can be bought from Air rifle Headquarters, under tune kits.
Email Jim Macarri about a synthetic seal that will fit the piston, you may have to give exact measurements.
These airguns are fairly accurate and in their day were moderately powerful.

Ps.
If looking for a leather seal, try
http://www.jgairguns.biz/gpage3.html
Look under BSF, You may have to give diameter of original seal and inner piston washer. KD
 
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Just from my experience...the tube should be well cleaned and absolutely shiny smooth. The two opposing leather seals can be carefully home manufactured, if you have the knack and some simple tools. The type or finish to the leather has to be rather soft and smooth on the tube bore face. The middle washer in your pic is absolutely shot, and both should look like the left one - cupped, and are attached with the screw & metal washer, one looking up and the other down. Use the left leather seal to guage leather thickness. Leather seals must be kept well lubricated with light oil that contains no additives that would deteriorate the leather. Synthetic seals may or may not require a lubricant - be aware of that. I'd stay with leather, as synthetic wasn't intended for this gun anyway. That all looks pretty dirty, but you should be able to clean everything up and have it working fine again. Also check the condition of the breech seal for leaking and barrel cleanliness.
 
It's at the end of the barrel where it closes on the receiver.
Yours is leather, I replaced mine with an "O"ring from the Auto parts store.
To test, put a small piece of tissue over the joint where the barrel block meets the receiver,
fire a pellet, if the tissue moves your seal is shot or needs lubing. KD
 
I had one of those as a kid. Put so many pellets through it the barrel hinge eventually wore out. We would soak the seals in silicone when they dried out. I put a new spring in mine as the original shattered after the rifle was fired without a pellet in the breech.
 
You can make your own leather seals pretty easy. A bench vise, some sockets, and a block of wood. Some drills to drill holes about the size of the OD of the seal... Info is posted about the web if you go looking. Basics is to wet the leather, then press it into a hole with an appropriate round object (socket), to form the cup. You then cut it carefully, and go from there.

For a replacement spring and seals, grab a digital caliper (You need one anyways, CTire sells them for way less than $20, on sale, too) and measure the diameters in Millimeters. You want to know the diameter of the bore of the body of the airgun.
You need the Outside and inside diameters of the spring, the coil count, and the wire diameter, and you can pretty much find what you need whether it's listed under a model number or not. Same for the breech seal, around the 'chamber' where the pellet is placed. That black ring, that's leather, and it's probably hard as anything. A little work with a sharp heavy needle, and you may be able to lift it out and loosen the leather up a bit then replace it. I've made a couple. Minor PITA, but can be done without anything special for tools. Finding a thick enough chunk of leather can be a chore. A square of toilet tissue draped over the breech, will move or be blown off when the gun is fired. If the seal is not leaking, don't muck with it! It works.

JM is a decent guy to deal with. Painless.

Cheers
Trev
 
I cut new washers for my Chinese air rifle from an old belt. Got lucky with the size and used one of my spade wood drill bits. Drilled 1/2 way from one side then finished from the other side. The centre point left a pilot hole for the screw.
 
Thanks guys.
I found a 1 inch replacement piston seal at jpairguns, so I'm going with that for now. Trev is correct about the breech seal being hard as a rock. I haven't tissue tested the breech seal as the gun is in pieces right now. It'll be tricky getting it out. I think I will replace the seals first and see how it performs before I go for the spring replacement.

Learning a lot from this thread, thanks.
 
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Kagey said:
Does anyone know if / where I can get a replacement for this missing retaining screw:
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Thanks
Click to expand...

I think you are on your own here, you could try a switch plate receptacle bolt for the thread size.
Shimming the receiver forks is generally a good idea if the utmost accuracy is expected.
A beer can makes good shims, try one side, if it still feels sloppy, do both. KD
 
Update: I replaced both seals. I made a rubber one for the breech seal from a rubber washer. It shoots a little better now, but pellets still remain in the bore 75% of the time (but they make it further down the bore!). I have no breech leak anymore. Looks like I'll have to get a new spring.

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Cheers
 
Soak your leather seals in Neetsfoot oil if you have any.
If you soak them in motor oil, there is a greater chance of dieseling.
After soaking dry with a cloth and install.
Use a rubber o-ring for a breech seal, auto supply store's have a wide assortment. Good luck.KD
 
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