Pics of pinned Hi-Power magazine?

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millwright

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Howdy all. Bought a few Browning Hi-Power mags awhile back that were pinned on the rear of the mag. Not only is the rivet in the way of full inserting the magazine (wont go in past the rivet) they only hold 8 rds. Since most of my mags are Mec Gar I have no way of finding out (without extra holes through trial and error) what the approx measurement is to drill and rivet on the side of the mag in one of the lower side depressions. Seen a pic from a FEG clone with the rivet approx half way down so kind of a idea.

Thanks for your help.
 
I bought some MecGar 10/13 from a dealer on here, pinned in the 13 round witness hole. Only problem was the pins fell out as soon as I disassembled them for cleaning.
I took a flat aluminum bar and bent it into a square to fit in the bottom of the mag, then marked it where the takedown hole is and drilled it for a 1/8 rivet. Riveted the block to the mag base....it's permanent and can't be disassembled.
 
So a person could build a block for the follower so it only came down for 10 rds then put a rivet in the bottom of the mag so it couldn't be slid off? I tried the welding of the base plate many years ago but of course the welder was set to high and melted more then welded :) Still seems that one can't open up the bottom to flush the dirt out of the mag body after playing in the dirt. Thanks so far for the ideas guys.
 
Mine are original factory full capacity mags modified by someone before I bought the gun secondhand. I haven't dismantled them to find out what's inside, but they are pinned through the bottom plate. It works, but I don't like having even the slight protusion on the bottom.
 
Following a an earlier example. I drilled a pilot hole in the bottom of the aluminum follower and put in a machine screw to limit the capacity. Through trial and error I was able to screw it in and out until I had the 10 rd limit. Once that was done I locked it in place with some JB Weld and assembled the mag. A pop rivet in the floorplate "sealed" it up. I think the screw only had to protrude about 3/8 - 1/2 an inch. It was a while ago.
 
you may want to read the part of the regulations (Part 4 of "Former Cartridge Magazine Control Regulations) that mentions your magazine modification(s) must be done to the case (body) of the magazine BEFORE you start drilling floorplates/followers etc and thinking your mag will stand as a proper conversion in a court room (you know, where you'll be referred to as "the accused").
 
Gotcha. Had a look yesterday. Rivet is the way of the spring so have to take that into consideration as well. Gonna have to take some time for this one.
 
How to locate where to drill hole. Here is how I do it.

Load mag with 10 rounds. Place a piece of tape over the top, so rounds will not fall out.

Hold mag upside down and remove base plate and spring. Spring can stay, if it is attached to the mag follower.

Rivet will go into the back of the mag, so slide a dowel, small ruler, Popsicle stick, or pencil up the mag, at the back, until it touches the follower. mark the stick at the edge of the open bottom. You know have the distance from the bottom of the mag to the bottom of the follower for 10 rounds.

Lay the stick along the backside of the mag and make a mark where the bottom of the follower would be. (Note: You don't drill at that distance, because you need a capacity of 10.5 rounds to allow easy insertion of round 10 and easy insertion into pistol when slide is closed. Drill the hole about 50mm closer to the bottom.)
 
I riveted an empty 9mm case into the floorplate of the mag, which is covered by the base plate.

To quote the act:
(4) A cartridge magazine described in subsection (1) that has been altered or re-manufactured so that it is not capable of containing more than five or ten cartridges, as the case may be, of the type for which it was originally designed is not a prohibited device as prescribed by that subsection if the modification to the magazine cannot be easily removed and the magazine cannot be easily further altered so that it is so capable of containing more than five or ten cartridges, as the case may be.

(5) For the purposes of subsection (4), altering or re-manufacturing a cartridge magazine includes

(a) the indentation of its casing by forging, casting, swaging or impressing;

(b) in the case of a cartridge magazine with a steel or aluminum casing, the insertion and attachment of a plug, sleeve, rod, pin, flange or similar device, made of steel or aluminum, as the case may be, or of a similar material, to the inner surface of its casing by welding, brazing or any other similar method; or

(c) in the case of a cartridge magazine with a casing made of a material other than steel or aluminum, the attachment of a plug, sleeve, rod, pin, flange or similar device, made of steel or of a material similar to that of the magazine casing, to the inner surface of its casing by welding, brazing or any other similar method or by applying a permanent adhesive substance, such as a cement or an epoxy or other glue.
Click to expand...

What I was TOLD long ago was that if you could undo the pin or rivet with hand tools it was insufficient. If you needed POWER tools (drill etc.) the mod was sufficient.
 
Hi Ganderite and others. Thanks for the input much appreciated. With reference to the rivet. The only way I could see it working was if a countersunk rivet was used to be flush with the rear of the magazine. Very little space for clearance, thats why I'm fixing them now, other then the 8 or so rd limitation
 
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