pietta 1860 army

Brentn

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Out of the box when I bought this from marstar a couple years back, the cylinder lock is peening the edges of the lock holes on the cylinder. It's locking up just before the cyclinder is in the right position, and slowly damaging the cylinder.

I have looked up this issue and it's in regards to the revolver timing.

How do you adjust something like this?

It's really bugging me because sooner or later theirs going to be no more cylinder lockup left and the cylinder will rotate even though the hammer is fully cocked.

Has anyone else had this issue with pietta?
 
I've read that what you need is to run a bore sized rod down the barrel and see if it slides right into the opening of the cylinder. Alternately if it's far enough out then shining a bright light down into the cylinder gap will allow you to sight down the barrel and see the lineup. However if you can see that they are not axial then it's way too much.

The way I understand it (still learning) the hand pushes the cylinder against the stop. If the stop isn't letting the cylinder rotate fully into alignment then the stop itself needs to be reshaped or the receiver requires some reshaping to alter the engagement lock point.

The other thought is that since this is an open top revolver it relies on the alignment of the barrel provided by the locking wedge. If the cylinder axle is out of kilter then it may be holding the barrel out of alignment to some small degree that is affecting the timing. Not sure how to deal with that since I don't know how the cylinder axle is held in.

Either way I'd suggest it's gunsmith visit time. None of these options are something that a regular user can deal with unless you're very comfy working with metal working machines, guages and other bits and peices used for metal working. But if you are OK with this sort of work and would be doing this work yourself I'd say start by assuming nothing and check the basics of the barrel to frame alignment first. Gauge everything off a known flat plate and check for flatness and centered barrel to frame alignment to increments of a fraction of an angle or thou's of runout per inch. Only once you know for sure that the barrel axis is centered and axial to the centerline can you begin to study why the cylinder isn't lining up. As you find errors note them down and then stufy them to see how they interact. The last thing you want to do is compensate for one error by adding another when all that was needed was to fix the first.

Best of luck with it which ever option you go with.
 
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BRENT N;
Have your local gunsmith look at it....

Should he find it is out of tolerance let me know, we can either supply the required part(s) or repair it.... Either way at no cost to you

John
 
BRENT N;
Have your local gunsmith look at it....

Should he find it is out of tolerance let me know, we can either supply the required part(s) or repair it.... Either way at no cost to you

John

It defenitely is out of tolerance, but I'll probably bring it to pro-line shooters and I'll go from there. John, I just wanted to say thanks and to also note that in no way was this post a cry for help from marstar. This was a cry for help for info from the gun community, I was fully willing to pay for parts and labor for the repair.
 
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