Pillar Bedding the Swede

lejarretnoir

lejarretnoir

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Was wondering if anyone has pillar bedded a sporterized M38 Husky Swede 6.5x55 in a Ram-Line synthetic stock?

After getting this rifle, I found the bolt was binding in the action. On closer inspection, someone before had installed a Williams FP rear peep sight and had not cleared enough stock material. After clearing the proper amount of stock material, the bolt returned to smooth operation. Also noticed that the original Mauser steel pillar on the rear was too short causing some stock crushing when torquing the screws. After installing the correct pillar, this helped the bolt become even more smooth.

My question is that would a good pillar glass-bed job improve the whole setup or not in this stock? Since it will only be shot with peep sights, would it be an advantage to pillar bed since the original Mauser loose steel pillars have stopped the stock crushing?

I'd appeciate any tips here.
 
I'd go with the glass bedding - if you can manage it with the plastic stock - this reduces the stresses on the action. I've bedded several Swedes - I dont bother with the front pillar, as the bedding is so rigid, there is little risk of crush - just torque to a known value.
The rear can benefit with a pillar, as any crush here will affect the seating of the action in its bed. Alternatively, glassing the tang area will create the same effect, and eliminate the possibility of the tang shuffling.
 
The Mausers are very flexible and easily bent so it is important than when glass bedding that the action is not stressed by clamps or screws while the glass bedding cures. This is true in any beddding job but more so with more flexible actions.
 
guntech said:
The Mausers are very flexible and easily bent so it is important than when glass bedding that the action is not stressed by clamps or screws while the glass bedding cures. This is true in any beddding job but more so with more flexible actions.
Click to expand...
What do you use then? Surgical tubing wrapped around the action, stock and floorplate?
 
canuckhunter said:
What do you use then? Surgical tubing wrapped around the action, stock and floorplate?
Click to expand...

I will use one screw - loose - just to align the action level, and just squeeze it down with my hands and let it lie there until the glass cures. Obviously this does not work with a pressure point on the barrel.

The problem with tightening screws or clamps or tubing is if the bedding has a high spot to start with, you can easily bend the action around this high spot. If you have inletted it and know there are no high spots between the front of the action and the tang... you can very lightly use two clamps on the action or tubing... but make it extremely light pressure.
 
Your process is logical and thanks.

One thing is for sure, the action is very flexible and sensitive. I was surprised how much it caused the bolt to bind when improperly sitting in the stock. Barrel will be free-floated and for the most part this will be a skin bedding while gluing the pillars in solid.

The Ram-Line stock isn't the best I've seen for customizing, but it's what I have to work with. I noticed where the sling studs screw in, there are cracks at the seam. Any easy fix for this also?
 
If you are going to use acragel, mix it black to match the stock and fill your cracks with it to. Will likely be the strongest part of the stock when you are done.

I have seen 2 Ramline stocks split along the seam, both on Browning A-bolts.
 
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