Pine Tar source
- Thread starter Groverino
- Start date
Thanks. I'm going to try the Feeds and Needs, but is the equine stuff the same as a purpose wood treatment product? I'm assuming I'll need to mix it with turpentine.
you can find Bickmore pine tar at tractor supply store ... its a nice lite pine tar and i thin it down with natural turps when i use it on my wood handles ( shovels,axes,rakes etc ) ... the wood looks kinda dark greyish.. it definitely preserves the wood
if your looking for that dark redish look, i think thats done with a sort of shellac ... sort of like the stuff at lee valley but not orange
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20030&cat=1,190,42942
or maybe a blend ?
if your looking for that dark redish look, i think thats done with a sort of shellac ... sort of like the stuff at lee valley but not orange
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20030&cat=1,190,42942
or maybe a blend ?
I definitely want a pine tar finish like the Finns used on Mosins. I know others have used Bickmore with success.
That's a good link. Thanks!
- Location
- Ottawa origanally Muskoka
Beat me to it.
It will be a warm weather adventure but I'll keep you posted.
The brand I have is Bickmore and it appears to be pure pine tar. It works well when cut with turpentine.
I was on the gunboards site asking about pine tar coatings on Finn rifles. It appears they used pine tar for darn near everything including preserving fish for winter storage as well as other foods.
The texture on those Finnish Mosins is not intended to be shiny. It is intended to be a matte finish. I have a very nice Finn with a lovely factory finish. It is anything but polished.
It seems they used something else other than pine tar and turpentine. So, I went to the Mosin Nagant dot com site and didn't really find out anything definitive. Turns out they used a special mix that was supplied to the armorers and factories by the government so that the finishes would all be relatively standard. Smooth and shiny wasn't desirable other than as a personal preference. They used some sort of oil that was similar to Schaftol along with the turpentine and pine tar.
I have been experimenting with the mix and still don't have it right. I have a very nice NEW Mosin that needs to be properly finished. The fellow I picked it up from told me he did it with the 50-50 mix. It doesn't look anything like my other Finn Mosins with government applied finishes.
The texture on those Finnish Mosins is not intended to be shiny. It is intended to be a matte finish. I have a very nice Finn with a lovely factory finish. It is anything but polished.
It seems they used something else other than pine tar and turpentine. So, I went to the Mosin Nagant dot com site and didn't really find out anything definitive. Turns out they used a special mix that was supplied to the armorers and factories by the government so that the finishes would all be relatively standard. Smooth and shiny wasn't desirable other than as a personal preference. They used some sort of oil that was similar to Schaftol along with the turpentine and pine tar.
I have been experimenting with the mix and still don't have it right. I have a very nice NEW Mosin that needs to be properly finished. The fellow I picked it up from told me he did it with the 50-50 mix. It doesn't look anything like my other Finn Mosins with government applied finishes.
I love the smell of pine tar. You can use it for so many things, tarring ropes and sails, making oakum for caulking boats, painting wood houses and boats. Those 500 year old wood buildings in Scandinavia that are a wonderful shade of brown get a coat of pine tar/ linseed oil paint every once in a while to keep them up. They even make medicated soap and shampoo with it
I've heard the 50/50 mix isn't the way to go for the base coats. It seems like more of an upkeep thing later on. One guy said he had good results using 90/10, and then applying BLO later. I've been research ing it like crazy and have gotten some tips from people. One thing I do know is the shiny varnish finish needs to go.
Did you just collect it from the tree and then boil it down?
That's cool, you made your own. I want to try that some time.
I found the tar from TSC was pretty thick. I thinned a heaping teaspoon of pine tar in 3/4 full mason jar of turpentine. Took a day or 2 to dissolve, stirred every once and a while.
I had a lot left over. This stuff will last forever.
I found the tar from TSC was pretty thick. I thinned a heaping teaspoon of pine tar in 3/4 full mason jar of turpentine. Took a day or 2 to dissolve, stirred every once and a while.
I had a lot left over. This stuff will last forever.
- Location
- Ottawa origanally Muskoka
If the tar is heated it will melt and then once in the liquid state disolves much easier
I have a book called, "The Mosin-Nagant Rifle" by Terence W. Lapin.
On Page 20, in reference to Finnish made Stocks; He states that Stocks made in, or after the late 1930's, were somewhat darker due to being stained with potassium permanganate dye.
On Page 20, in reference to Finnish made Stocks; He states that Stocks made in, or after the late 1930's, were somewhat darker due to being stained with potassium permanganate dye.
