Polishing a barrel?

[AdamO]

I did a quick search, and couldn't find anything - if this has been covered, a link would be appreciated.

I'd like to take a couple of my barrels (blued), and get them to a mirror-like stainless finish. I've taken an old test barrel, and let it sit in vinegar for a while, and that removes the black coating - but it's a matte finish. Any recommendations for a product/process (that I can do on my own) that will give it a high shine?

Thanks!

 

[Icefire]

Jewlerer Rouge, or #6 Polishing compound and a buffer wheel.

 

[Mercury0_0]

I used a dremel tool and metal polishing compound. It took about three hours to get it the way I wanted it.

 

[colinjw]

When I have tried polishing , I either wind up with metal that is dull looking or if there is some shine to it there are also a lot of small scratches or swirl marks that make it worse than when I started.

Is there a secret or does it just take a long time to do it properly ??

 

[Mercury0_0]

Did you use sandpaper or something equally abrasive? Metal polish is extremely fine and should not leave marks on the barrel. If you do have marks then you'll have to get rid of them by using emory cloth (wet/dry sandpaper) in more and more fine pieces until all the swirl marks are gone. The cloth should be 1200grit to start, then 1800grit, 2400grit, and then use the polish and a wheel on a dremel tool to finish it off.

 

[AdamO]

Jewlerer Rouge, or #6 Polishing compound and a buffer wheel.

Thanks for the tips so far guys - safe to let a barrel sit in vinegar to remove most, if not all of the bluing first? Will that damage the bore at all?

 

[Icefire]

vinegar will not damage it.
In the industry, they use full strength HCL to remove rush from metal.

 

[HobbyShooter]

Try using finer grit successivly like 320, 400, 600, 1500
then polising coumpound (wich I don't know the progression
or code/color identification)

You can practice on any scrap metal bar...

Jocelyn

 

[John Marshall]

What are you going to do for rust protection?

 

[Mauser98]

The last rifle I blued was an older Savage 110. Besides the factory machine marks in the barrel there was a fair amount of shallow pitting.

I started by giving the barrel a light draw filing to cut the machineing marks and pits off. I then went to 100, 150, 180, 220, 320, 400 and finally 600 grit(the last 5 grits were wet/dry paper used wet with oil). Each grit was used to erase the scratches from the previous grit. After the 600, I was left with a mirror finish.

I then used a medium(purple) 3M Scotch-brite pad to knock back the shine and remove swirls then a extra fine(gray) Scotch-brite for the final finish which was a fairly bright matte - perfect for slow rust bluing.

All sand paper and 3M pads were used with a solid backing. This prevents dips and unevenness from happening during the process.

 

[AdamO]

What are you going to do for rust protection?

I usually run a oil soaked patch through the barrel, and go over the entire surface of it, to coat it very lightly. Is this sufficient, or am I risking buggering something up.

I thought it would be fine, as the 'smiley' marks where the bluing is coming off is very shiny, and is holding up very well. This isn't a duty gun, just want to jazz up my Sig a bit, so it doesn't get exposed to the elements or anything.

 

[Mercury0_0]

Careful with oiling the inside of the barrel. I'm pretty sure that if you are going to do that then you have to remove all of the oil prior to shooting. I would only bother oiling the inside if I was going to store the gun for a long time without use.