Pooched Swedish Mauser bolt?

cyclone

cyclone

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Okay, I think I mucked-up badly (again). :eek:


The extractor of the bolt seems to have been "bent in" to the bolt body, and I'm not quite sure how to free it (without destroying it). :confused:


If anyone has any idiot-proof instructions (and trust me, no set of directions are too simple for me :wave: ), please feel free to throw them at me! :yingyang:


Alternatively, if you're a kind soul in the GTA and are willing to tinker with the bolt in exchange for beer, please do let me know too. :cheers:


Sighing,
Dan
 
Hitzy said:
You want to remove the extractor? Or is something else going on?
Click to expand...


The bolt is not sliding into the receiver, so I was trying to take it apart.


As I started to do so, I saw that the extractor was "bent in" to the bolt body.


I tried not to force anything, b/c with my luck....:eek:
 
It almost sounds like your extractor has moved ahead very slightly and is riding on the lip of the bolt rather than resting in the guide groove.
 
I don't know for sure but I think I remember my dad's 8mm k98 needed to be cocked or the bolt wouldn't slide back into the receiver, I twisted it or something when I was a kid and I had a b!tch of a time recocking it to put it back in
 
With a 98 mauser, if the striker is down, in the position where the bolt would be closed in the rifle, you have to retract the striker, rotate the body/striker shroud to proper position and engage the safety, then put it back in the rifle. The model 96 cocks on closing, this is not the issue.
 
cyclone said:
No, the rear of the bolt is actually recessed.





Quite - what would a remedy be?
Click to expand...



IF that's the issue, align the extractor with the groove it rides in,(even with the right locking lug if you can) place the bolt face on a flat surface, and smack the rear end with the flat of your hand. It should pop right back in.
 
To remove the '96 extractor, rotate it to the right and it should slide out of the groove. Once it's out, just push it up from the bottom and it will slide off the collar. Install the reverse.
 
As mentioned above, the bolt needs to be cocked. Recocking can be easy or difficult depending on the operator. I use a piece of wear resistant plastic that the cocking piece face fits into so that I can pull back on it and easily turn the assembly back to the "cocked" position.

As far as the extractor, it fits onto a couple of lugs on the ring about half way along the bolt which holds it in place while it rotates. I use a plastic mallet to tap it in place but a wooden dowel or plastic handle screwdriver will work just as well.

If you took off the extractor, hopefully you didn't pry it over the guide lip with a metal implement. Sometimes this will bend the extractor. Unless it has a very sharp bend it shouldn't be a problem. I have straightened several on 93/95/96/98s with some very gentle tapping against a relatively soft lead block.
 
Dan sent me a picture of his bolt and as he is not familiar with all the types of Mauser's, he (as many others have in the past) has misidentified his bolt as from a Swedish Mauser when in fact it is a Argentine M1891 Mauser bolt.

This video is for Dan and anybody else who may have a M1891 Mauser and wants to know how to remove the extractor on one -


And this is a Swedish Mauser and M98 Mauser bolt take down video -

 
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I'm genuinely thankful to be part of the excellent CGN community; thanks to mkrnel I now have both an 1891 Mauser and an 1896 Mauser is working order.


Yes, I know it was a dumb mix-up on my part, but I really and sincerely thank everyone for their help and responses.
 
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