POSP mount for VZ58 project...

There was no way to get a mount that centers over the bore?

Not with a POSP, no. The OSP uses a side mount only and this mount is mounted as flush as humanly possible for a POSP scope. The only way to get it more over the bore would be to not use a POSP as the mount is integral to the scope casting and there's not enough meat to machine it to get closer. It's made of some sort of aluminum (and perhaps magnesium?) alloy.
 
Not to be rude but if you want a dead center mount N.E.A. has already made it for you;
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Yes, that's true, a dead-centre mount is available and I already even have the adaptor. The issue is that a POSP scope cannot be mounted to the NEA adaptor as far as I am aware ;)

I like the NEA mount, but I also enjoy the POSP scopes on VZ58's :)
 
Yes, that's true, a dead-centre mount is available and I already even have the adaptor. The issue is that a POSP scope cannot be mounted to the NEA adaptor as far as I am aware ;)

I like the NEA mount, but I also enjoy the POSP scopes on VZ58's :)

Not true. any POSP with "W" at the end would fit to the rail. W in the name stands for weaver...good example POSP8x42WD mounted on my AR15
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Interesting, I didn't know POSP's came in weaver. That being said, you would not get usable eye relief with that scope on an NEA mount.

And anyhow, I can remove the POSP scope in 3 seconds and use another mount like the NEA - no problem. Only permanent mod is the welded on dragunov mount.

I also sometimes run an aimpoint on the NEA front handguard - the gun is multi-purpose :)
 
Not true. any POSP with "W" at the end would fit to the rail. W in the name stands for weaver...good example POSP8x42WD mounted on my AR15
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b:
OMG! I never new this. Is it possible to get the overall length's off of you? I wouldn't mind some thing 9" or shorter.
 
I've got one of the 8x42W (same as above) and it's great, I actually had it on my SwissArms until recently... that speaks pretty highly of it I'd say. I like to keep my 858's optics free tho, too many problems with optics on a gun that you may have to beat up at some point.

They're something like 9 1\2 -10 1\2 inches as well.

Mike
 
Well I made some progress on fabbing up a new shell deflector.

Started with a chunk of 1018 cold rolled steel and the mill:
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Here it is clipped under the rear sight leaf:
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Next, I cut a piece of 1018 hot-rolled bar stock and milled some lightening cuts into it and MIG welded it to the rear sight wedge:
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Finally, I fabbed up a piece of 1020 colled rolled sheet steel into a deflection shield, drilled some plug weld holes into the tab and then plug welded it to the support arm, then dressed the welds down with an angle grinder and finished dressing it with a file:
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And here it is mocked up:
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I still have to finish it, probably parkerize it or nitro-carburize it. Not sure yet. It fits nice and tight as it's milled with only a couple thou clearance to the slide and the machining on the bottom fits the spring recess for the rear sight perfectly. The spring tension keeps the deflector in place and it has just enough give to it that it should absorb all the shock of being hit by shells without ever getting near the scope :)
 
I've used those $15 ones before. They're not very good and tend to move about a lot. Especially side to side.

This one fits on the rear sight super tight.

I was going to make one that completely replaced the rear sight leaf, but settled on this one instead.

Anyhow, I doubt anyone else will want to make one like I did. It's a lot of machining, filing and welding for what it is.

I guess another way of putting it is that some people will settle for half-@ssed stamped steel crap, other people will toil for a couple hours in the machine shop to make something nice and tight out of milled steel ;)
 
someone pointed out to me the sharp edge in relation to the bolt handle might cause a cut if using the bolt under stress, so I added a nice little rolled edge to the shell deflector:

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Silver solder would be good enough for normal shooting, I should think. I strongly considered it, but three things prevented me from doing so:

1) I'm not sure how it would hold up to a good solid smack.
2) You need to get the mount very hot with an acetylene torch to flow the solder. I was worried the heat might propagate to the left locking lug.
3) I wasn't how the solder would react if I get the gun nitro-carburized.
 
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