Possible Lee Enfield Bolt Problems

bdtyre

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I've had a couple issues feeding my No4 MkI that are probably due to a bad magazine. Today it fed rounds better and so I'm fairly happy, though I noticed two new problems. The rear of the bolt protrudes when the action is readied and when the action is fired, it moves towards the rest of the bolt, bringing the firing pin with it.

The first problem is that sometimes, when working the action, this rear piece stays in and hence, the firing pin is already forward. So when the trigger is pulled, the mechanism "fires" but the firing pin doesn't impact the primer, as it is already forward and "resting" against the primer. To remedy this I've had to pull the bolt to half-way and slam it forward violently. Is this a headspace issue (from what I've read, it doesn't seem to be related to headspace) or a bad bolt?

The other (potential) problem may or may not be related. One of my new shooters that came out with me chambered a round and then asked me about the safety. I told him what the safety was and how to work it. I briefly turned my head as the rifle went off. He swears that all he did was push the safety forward. I can think of only three options: 1. He's telling the truth and there is some issue with the bolt. 2. He did push the safety forward but was clumsy and somehow managed to push the rear of the bolt inwards thereby forcing the firing pin into the primer without pulling the trigger or 3. He had his finger on the trigger and didn't realize how sensitive the trigger was - perhaps he was putting enough pressure on it.

Option 1 seems unlikely since I was the first to use the rifle and didn't have this happen. The second shooter also didn't have this happen. The third shooter had the supposed "ND". The fourth shooter asked me to chamber the round and take the safety off just to be on the safe side. Everything was fine. After that was done, I tested it by loading a single round. Nothing. The weapon operated properly. I should also mention that I've run across the first problem when dry firing, but not the second.

Essentially, is there an issue with my bolt that should be looked at, or does it likely just need a good cleaning? And shoot I talk to the shooter in question about weapons handling (we did go over safe handling before shooting)?
 
The rear of the bolt protrudes? Maybe you need to clarify that statement. If you are referring to the ccocking piece, its supposed to do that.
If the firing pin goes forward when the bolt closes, you have a problem with the sear not catching it.
 
Could be a worn safety, but did you cycle the bolt with the safety partially on?

Sounds to me like the catch on the safety was still partially engaged and slipped out...
 
Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions. That may save you some money before going to a gunsmith.

The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25


2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=3314

Complete Set includes:

- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions


1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=3322

Complete Set includes:

- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions

Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.

Hope this helps... :)

Regards,
Badger
 
"The first problem is that sometimes, when working the action, this rear piece stays in and hence, the firing pin is already forward."

Sounds like the cocking piece is staying with the bolt and is not being held back by the sear when cycled.

"To remedy this I've had to pull the bolt to half-way and slam it forward violently."

Pulling the bolt back to half way will allow the sear to engage the bent on the cocking piece and remain at the cocked position (The bent is the front face of the cocking piece upon which the sear tip acts). Instead of pulling the bolt back half way, grasp just the cocking piece and pull it back gently. You should hear the sear go "click-click" when you pull it back from the fired position.

So I would say that this is a sear problem, not the bolt. Could be due to one or two things.

One would be that the rifle has been assembled incorrectly. Take the bolt out and eyeball the sear. The tip of it should move freely up and down under spring tension when the trigger is pulled. If it doesn't then it may be dirty or in need of oil. Or it could be a weak, broken or incorrectly assembled sear spring.

"I briefly turned my head as the rifle went off. He swears that all he did was push the safety forward."

Once again, this sounds like a sear problem, it wasn't engaged properly. When the bolt is cocked and the safety is applied, the cocking piece is drawn back a fraction of an inch and clears the sear. You can feel this in the trigger travel, it is freed up a bit. If sear is disengaged (finger on the trigger) when the safety is released, the cocking piece will move forward and fire.

I would look to see how the sear engages the bent on the cocking piece. To get a visual, remove the forearm and eyeball things from the side of the receiver. It is a very simple mechanism and pretty obvious how it works once you can see it.

My money is on a sticking sear or it isn't engaging high enough. It might be sitting right on the edge of engagement.

Could be something as simple as gunge or solidified grease in the works, or debris (sand, twig, lady bug) has found its way down into the action. I would take it apart, clean it, put it back together.

Or, if Bubba ever had his hands on it and stoned the bent to tune the trigger let off, then the cocking piece could be buggered for good
 
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"...the firing pin doesn't impact the primer, as it is..." Sounds like a busted firing pin to me. Take off the bolt head and see if anything falls out. There may be some crud in the bolt though.
"...need a good cleaning?..." That's where you start with any failure to fire issue.
"...push the safety forward..." The sear is worn or broken.
 
When I get a chance, I'll do a full strip on the rifle. Last time I cleaned it and did a basic cleaning and I didn't remove the trigger mech. I'll have to go outside on a sunny day and lay everything out and have a look.

Personally, I've only ever had it fail to fire once. This last time out, two out of the four had some problems - but they also seemed to have trouble working the bolt. Maybe its just a question of aggression. As for firing when removing the safety, I'll take a look at the sear. It's only ever happened one time, even when dry firing the rifle, so I'm not entirely convinced my shooter wasn't at fault.
 
I 've seen one bubba'd to fire from the first detent on the cocking piece to reduce lock-time. Worked well but would fire when cocked , made safe and then returned to fire position. Yours only did this once so check for good clean contact at the detents in the cocking piece.
 
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