Powder coating system

Shake and bake serves my needs which is mostly for plinking handgun bullets.

I've heard that the electrostatic gun method can give a thinner and more consistent coating but I have never tried. Seems like it would be a bit more work having to stand them up etc. Maybe it would give better results for more serious shooting in rifles.

Castboolits forum has a lot more info than here.
 
Have you guys tried HIGH HEAT PAINT for engines, caliper, oven, bbq grill? (VHT, RUSTOLEUM, DUPLICOLOR) All you have to do is make sure the bullet is clean, Spray evenly, Bake for 2-6 hrs depending on the temperature. I use a 50W halogen lamp over the painted bullets for 6 hrs or overnight. Put the bullets over a baking tray so it resonates heat back. Just make sure the baking tray is not on top of a wooden surface as it will eventually heat up. I use a porcelain tile as base for the baking tray. So far, so good. Takes a little longer to cure using halogen lamp, but it worked for me.

Safe shooting!
 
A # of things to verify the usefulness of your idea need to be considered & tested...if all is well its going to be an option to consider...first being does it stick to the bullet during full bore travel, not much good if the coating all peels off....second is , does the paint coat the bore during firing (I can fire many hundreds of PC coated slugs through a bore & have no evidence of PC residue in the bore at all)....thirdly, can the paint coated slugs be run through a sizing die without scuffing the coating, I can run PC coated slugs through a .003 undersized die without scuffing the PC.

Im not trying to undercut your desertion but just the fact that the bullets take a paint covering doesnt prove the viability of it's use.
 
Do you pc rifle cartridges, pistol or everything?
I got a kit with Eastwood black and would like to try it for 38spl or 3030
 
Do you pc rifle cartridges, pistol or everything?
I got a kit with Eastwood black and would like to try it for 38spl or 3030


 
Have you guys tried HIGH HEAT PAINT for engines, caliper, oven, bbq grill? (VHT, RUSTOLEUM, DUPLICOLOR) All you have to do is make sure the bullet is clean, Spray evenly, Bake for 2-6 hrs depending on the temperature. I use a 50W halogen lamp over the painted bullets for 6 hrs or overnight. Put the bullets over a baking tray so it resonates heat back. Just make sure the baking tray is not on top of a wooden surface as it will eventually heat up. I use a porcelain tile as base for the baking tray. So far, so good. Takes a little longer to cure using halogen lamp, but it worked for me.

Safe shooting!
While I credit you for curiousity and inventiveness I can't see how this would be a better alternative to powder coating. In addition to the potential technical issues raised by fingers284 there are the following to consider:

1. Price: Compared to the price of powder, the various spray paints are going to cost much more money. A pound of Emerald Tool Blue (one of the gold standards when it comes to excellent coverage using shake & bake) goes for about $13 and it will coat MANY thousands of bullets, far more than a can of spray paint which is going to run in the same, if not higher price range.

2. TIME: When I shake & bake using Tool Blue it takes about 15 minutes in the toaster oven to get a full cure so even if I'm only doing 100 bullets at a time that's 400 per hour. A similar amount using spray paint curing would take at least 8 hours. Even if you could do 400 at a time that still at least twice as long to get the coating cured.

3. Does the spray paint have any barrel damaging abrasives in it? That's a consideration that must be taken into account when deciding on a powder coating so it would also be a concern with the paints being used.

Don't get me wrong. I credit you for being inquisitive (that's how things get improved) but in this case I'm not really seeing any up sides to using spray paint as opposed to powder coating.
 
After I cast and size my boollets, I then soak in Acetone (5 min), take outside to dry. Then put in cool whip container and swirl, then right into toaster oven. Once cooled, I resize again. I cast and PC for .30 cal (30-30,308, 30-06 @150/180gr), .223, 45, , 45-70, 9mm, lead balls (no PC) and buckshot PC.
 
I shoot cast/PC 55gr, .224 in my Savage with zero issues of leading (2700fps), they are not match worthy rounds, but plinking and fun rounds. I get about 4" groupings at 100M consistently, just a cheap way to have fun. During load development I would test the coating in milk jugs of water as I had real concerns over friction degrading in barrel and have experienced none of those issue, because I keep them under powered. As for pistol rounds, zero issues as well of PCC or pistols and I am pushing those rounds at 1100FPS for 9mm from PCC. Until primers almost doubled in price in last year I was making cast reloads (9mm), for .08 per round, it has now risen to .13 cents per 9mm as 1K (brick) primers is just under/over $100 now.
A # of things to verify the usefulness of your idea need to be considered & tested...if all is well its going to be an option to consider...first being does it stick to the bullet during full bore travel, not much good if the coating all peels off....second is , does the paint coat the bore during firing (I can fire many hundreds of PC coated slugs through a bore & have no evidence of PC residue in the bore at all)....thirdly, can the paint coated slugs be run through a sizing die without scuffing the coating, I can run PC coated slugs through a .003 undersized die without scuffing the PC.

Im not trying to undercut your desertion but just the fact that the bullets take a paint covering doesnt prove the viability of it's use.
 
put bullet + powder in a ice cream 2L container, put the 2L in my rotary tumbler for 10 min.

Been watching videos on powder coating bullets.

Some throw in plastic air soft bb's. Seems to increase the electrostatic charge and coats the bullets better.
 
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