PP-73 .303 Berdan brass to straight wall

[kjohn]

I have a small batch of Berdan primed .303 brass marked 303MK8Z PP-73. Once fired, pretty much useless to me in that state. So, I figured I'd give the shotgun primer trick a whirl.

No dimple inside between the two flash holes, rule that out. Drilled the primer cup out, pried what was left of the primer out. Using the primer pocket as a pilot, I drilled 1/4" in. hole right through. Tough to get it centered, but it does a good enough job. Counter sunk the new hole enough to have a shotgun primer sit flush. Apply red Loctite to the sides of the primer, slip it into the hole.

Loaded up approx. 10 gr. 700X, crimped a 185 gr. LEE GC WW bullet. Took the 6 rounds out to my "testing ground, fired them off in my original Lithgow musket. All 6 expanded ok, no cracks.

Knocked out the spent primers, loaded up another 10 gr. 700X, crimped in a LEE WW 210 gr bullet.

Here's what they look like: original brass on the right; primed and ready to shoot middle and left.

 

[spoc]

Cool project!

 

[oldrodder]

I make my 40-60 Maynard brass from .303 Br. Is that what you're doing? I also use it for .410 brass cases.

 

[kjohn]

I make my 40-60 Maynard brass from .303 Br. Is that what you're doing? I also use it for .410 brass cases.

I’ll be using these and the other ones I’ve straightened in an ISHAPORE musket that takes straight wall .303 brass. I also have one that is chambered for regular 3” .410 ammo. I use 444 Marlin brass for that one. No need to fiddle with brass for it. The 444 brass won’t work in the original bore.

 

[Potashminer]

I have a small batch of Berdan primed .303 brass marked 303MK8Z PP-73. Once fired, pretty much useless to me in that state. So, I figured I'd give the shotgun primer trick a whirl.

No dimple inside between the two flash holes, rule that out. Drilled the primer cup out, pried what was left of the primer out. Using the primer pocket as a pilot, I drilled 1/4" in. hole right through. Tough to get it centered, but it does a good enough job. Counter sunk the new hole enough to have a shotgun primer sit flush. Apply red Loctite to the sides of the primer, slip it into the hole.

Loaded up approx. 10 gr. 700X, crimped a 185 gr. LEE GC WW bullet. Took the 6 rounds out to my "testing ground, fired them off in my original Lithgow musket. All 6 expanded ok, no cracks.

Knocked out the spent primers, loaded up another 10 gr. 700X, crimped in a LEE WW 210 gr bullet.

Here's what they look like: original brass on the right; primed and ready to shoot middle and left.

View attachment 666076

I may copycat that idea - to clarify - you used red loctite to anchor that 209 primer in the hole that you made. Fired that round - and then were able to punch out that formerly glued in shotgun primer and replace it?? Did you have to glue in the replacement primer as well?

 

[kjohn]

I had to reglue a couple of them. There was enough residual crap in the others to hold a new primer. I used red Loctite. Probably didn’t have a chance to set properly. I’ll give the reloads a couple of days.

 

[oops]

Try using a loctite for installing loose bushings,can't remember the name off hand,but I use it at work...

 

[kjohn]

I have left the outer sleeve of the shotgun primer a wee bit proud of the base of the brass in order to make a nice snug fit when I close the bolt. The old LE is fairly forgiving, and the primer is definitely not going anywhere when the cartridge is fired.

My next step is to see how (in)accurate these marvels will be. Minute of laundry jug is all I can hope for with a straight through .410ish bore with no rifling, no choke.

Wish me luck!

 

[Ganderite]

I did a similar project for my LE 410. I had to anneal the brass to prevent cracking.

If you use red LokTite, you could deprime the 209, leaving the outer cup of the primer in place, and then just install a new primer, without the cup.

 

[kjohn]

It would leave a bit of an echo chamber from the rifle primer to the hole in the shotgun primer. Would that be okay?

 

[M1-Garand]

It would leave a bit of an echo chamber from the rifle primer to the hole in the shotgun primer. Would that be okay?

I tried it, did not work for me, firing pin hits the primer, primer moves resulting in light primer strike and misfire.

 

[kjohn]

I tried it, did not work for me, firing pin hits the primer, primer moves resulting in light primer strike and misfire.

Yeah. I'll just use shotgun primers. I don't reload shotgun anymore. I have to work on the countersink part. I think I'll try starting the countersink with and inside chamfer tool, then use a large, drill powered chamfer tool. I'm doing the drilling and countersinking handheld. I clamp the brass with a small pair if vice grips, and the countersink part is tough to get it started square to the hole.

 

[antiqueguy]

I wouldn’t go 1/4 inch .209 primers are .239-.241 I’d get a letter b or c drill bit.

 

[kjohn]

I wouldn’t go 1/4 inch .209 primers are .239-.241 I’d get a letter b or c drill bit.

Good advice. I only have 1/4" at the moment. I'll get one or both. Thanks.

Edit: Tried a B & C. C works best, B a bit tight. Now to find bits.