Precision build

O

Ozzi

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Hey all,

I've been considering building a precision rifle for sometime, and I'm curious to hear some feedback on caliber selection.

I do already own a Savage 110 in 6.5, which is 100 percent stock. Being a southpaw I'm finding the aftermarket stock support for the savage is quite limited, but Remington seems to be a little better.

Are .308, and 6.5 Creedmoor the way to go? Or would I be crazy to even consider 30-06?

Right now I'm debating between long action, and short action, and getting a pre built remington, and stripping it down, or buying the action on it's own (which seems to be more than a fully built rifle).
 
Compete in what? What would be the point of a 30-06? Short action would make more sense if you are shooting prs. If you're building a boomer, then a long action makes sense but not in 30-06. What is your budget? Going right to a defiance, kelbly, or bighorn would be the best way to start a build on a budget
 
Do you reload? If you are practising alot, consider the cost of ammo AND the consumption of barrels.

Prefit barrels is the easiest way to get a steady flow of barrels at better pricing... lots of factory and custom actions use prefits now.

Chamber to consider... 223 Rem.... If you want to get good at positional shooting, you better be prepared to put lead downrange. In fact, a 22LR might be a great place to start and the community for rimfire PRS is massive in ON.

If you want a nice fancy rifle for show and tell, just figure out your budget, furniture you prefer and have at it. Lots of great gear nowadays.

If you actually want to learn, practise and train, consider the per bang cost of whatever direction you want to go. Centerfire barrels do not last all that long... cost per bang can be quite spicy depending on direction you want to go AND availability of components can be frustrating.

I shoot both centerfire and rimfire PRS but I am leaning heavily to rimfire these days. Even if cost was not a concern, having enough components to practise 100 to 200rds per outing is a royal PITA these days... rimfire, I just crack open another box.

Jerry

If you decide to try the rimfire route, may be a semi auto might solve the LH choices? 10/22 can compete in Open easily and you might be able to adapt a chassis easier vs a stock?

Of course, there are LH rimfires with the CZ457 (if it exists) top of the pile.... but stock options will be limited.
 
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Jerry's post is good advice IMO.

I recently built a center fire rifle for PRS even though I may never get to compete because I live over a thousand km's from the nearest PRS match I have heard of, and my local range is not possible to host one because its too small and too short. So I might only just practice.

My research indicated that the PRS guys are shooting mostly 6mm calibers (high velocity, low recoil, relatively good BC). There is wide assortment to choose from these days, with wildcats becoming commercialized with dies and brass. You may want to check out https://www.accurateshooter.com/ for many articles on 6mm options. Also https://precisionrifleblog.com/

However, I chose to build my "PRS" wannabee rifle in 6.5x47 Lapua. I wanted the bigger 6.5 bullet for better bullet splash (when missing the steel gong) over the smaller 6mm bullets, because the only medium long range I can find (500-600m) is logging cutovers on crown land to the north of me. And most times sight lines in cuts are maxed out at about 400m. Vegetation on the ground makes it difficult enough to see bullet splash, and sometimes impossible so that you need a spotter, or video through your spotting scope, to see the bullet trace.

And if I never get to compete and only shoot long range in cutovers, hopefully up to 1000m (if I can ever find those sight lines in the cutovers, which is not likely around here), the heavier 6.5 bullet might give me more wind bucking power than a 6mm (but that is debatable because the 6mm's can be loaded to higher velocity).

6.5x47 L ammo is not available, so its all reloading....but if you are into precision rifle shooting I am guessing you will be reloading.

If you are thinking about F-class, you will be wanting a long action. I read that the .284 Win and its variants (.284 Shehane) are doing very well in that discipline. There are several 7mm (.284) magnums doing well too. F-class from what I read (never done it so I may be wrong), is dominated by the long high BC 7mm match bullets. F-class is by regulation single feed only so there is no need for a magazine cut out. Its a long action cartridge from what I read. I don't know if it can be single fed from a short action?

For LH stocks/chassis, you first have to decide on the action inlet. I went with a Rem 700 clone (Bighorn Origin) short action for my 6.5x47L, and there are many brands and models to choose from in the 700 clones. (I chose an MDT XRS).
 
I was shooting F class on the weekend with my 26" 223 and 88 ELDMs. A buddy was there with his 30" 6 BR with Berger 105s.

At 1000 yards, I was 1 MOA flatter with my 223 than he was with the 6BR.

I was up 29.25 MOA from 100 yards and he was up 30.25 MOA.

The only performance advantage of something like a 6 BR would be the larger bullet creates more atmospheric disturbance which would make trace ~ slightly ~ easier to see.

The 6MM bullet is also slightly heavier so there is a little more splash on steel plates, but that is quite minor. (for PRS)

I would say the 6 BR with 105s would not require as much precision in the loading and chambering process and would be slightly more fault tolerant because the bullets are shorter relatively speaking.

Between the two, the 6BR does have quite a bit more recoil, but he man types would dismiss the difference, but there is a significant difference if you are used to the 223 with 88s.

At some point I will get out there with the 90 grain ATips and that will flatten out the 223 quite a bit.

Just the same the 6BR could use the 110 ATip and pick up some performance there as well.

If the OP is interested in F Class, I would not recommend the 223, but would not wave you off the idea either, as long as you hand load and have a custom barrel throated long.

As for Rem 700 or clone short action or long action, I would only recommend the short action for 223. For all others including 308 Win, use the long action. When seating long heavy VLDs in a short action 308 Win, you will not be able to eject a live round without removing the bolt, so use a long action.
 
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In .223 Rem 85.5 grain Bergers are the proven ticket with appropriate chamber such as the ISSF spec used by some top TR shooters. Bob Pitcairn had about 10 reamers and his research is available.
 
Go buy the most expensive stuff out there, Schmidt and Bender, Theta Tangent, get a AI or something tasty , drop 20 grand, brag to your friends, attention whore the #### out of it on gunnutz. Go to two matches, get bored and then finally sell for a loss. Wait a few years to pass and start all over again It’s a vicious cycle:p.
 
Haven't stated if you plan on eventually competing in something like F Class or PRS.

If you are looking at F Class (T/R in particular) I'll share what I had learned through my mistakes.

Go 308 Winchester, don't bother considering a 223 Rem F Class gun because you'll just be converting money, time, and effort into noise and aroma therapy.
With a really good 223 Rem rifle, using 80.5 or 90 VLD Bergers, an "exemplary day of your performance" may only translate into placing "in the middle of the pack" after a tournament.
In short, doing F T/R with a 223 Remington, means that you're competing with yourself.... likely everyone else is using a 308 Win.

A 308 Winchester in a Remington 700 means typically short action will do... but you don't necessarily have to have a short action.
My current build uses a Defiance Elite (its a short action)... but knowing (now) how long my reloaded 308s are, I wish that ordered something else in a long action with a 308 bolt face.... just make life a bit easier extracting unfired rounds on a cease fire.


If you want to persue the F Open route, most guys I know use a basic SAAMI 284 Winchester chamber.
 
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