- Location
- Vancouver Island
How do you tell if you've got too much pressure from handloads in a revolver, besides the obvious........KaBoom?
What are the impending signs?
What are the impending signs?
Pressure Sign
- Thread starter Spokerider
- Start date
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
What cartridge, what gun?
Missing Something
Regular
Some classic signs are... sticky cases in chambers.... flattened primers... flowing primers around firing pin... cracked cases... etc..... If this is happening you are WAY over safe pressures and shound not fire any more ammunition. :shock: This is just to give you an idea. You should not go over recommended loads listed in reputable manuals or substitute powder or primers. (I.E. magnum primers in place of standard etc...)
just my 2 cents....
just my 2 cents....
Missing Something
Regular
Some classic signs are... sticky cases in chambers.... flattened primers... flowing primers around firing pin... cracked cases... etc..... If this is happening you are WAY over safe pressures and shound not fire any more ammunition. :shock: This is just to give you an idea. You should not go over recommended loads listed in reputable manuals or substitute powder or primers. (I.E. magnum primers in place of standard etc...)
just my 2 cents....
just my 2 cents....
Missing Something
Regular
Some classic signs are... sticky cases in chambers.... flattened primers... flowing primers around firing pin... cracked cases... etc..... If this is happening you are WAY over safe pressures and shound not fire any more ammunition. :shock: This is just to give you an idea. You should not go over recommended loads listed in reputable manuals or substitute powder or primers. (I.E. magnum primers in place of standard etc...)
just my 2 cents....
just my 2 cents....
Missing Something
Regular
If you have pressure signs you are already way way past safe pressures in anything. :roll:
Some classic signs are... sticky cases in chambers.... flattened primers... flowing primers around firing pin... cracked cases... etc..... If this is happening you are WAY over safe pressures and shound not fire any more ammunition. :shock: This is just to give you an idea. You should not go over recommended loads listed in reputable manuals or substitute powder or primers. (I.E. magnum primers in place of standard etc...)
just my 2 cents....
Some classic signs are... sticky cases in chambers.... flattened primers... flowing primers around firing pin... cracked cases... etc..... If this is happening you are WAY over safe pressures and shound not fire any more ammunition. :shock: This is just to give you an idea. You should not go over recommended loads listed in reputable manuals or substitute powder or primers. (I.E. magnum primers in place of standard etc...)
just my 2 cents....
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Right, thanks. Pretty much the same signs as for rifle cases.
Just want to be sure that I'm not missing any pressure sign when working from a starting load progressing to the published maximun load.
Just want to be sure that I'm not missing any pressure sign when working from a starting load progressing to the published maximun load.
Okay - same question, different gun - I am loading for a stainless Ruger 345 - Dare I load higher than the book says? What if I use rifle cases shortened and thinned to fit. Are there any early signs of overpressure - or is it really too late by the time I start to see primer-flattening? I really dont expect to have cases sticking in an auto. Appreciate any info. ------ Rod ------
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
When you are working up a load it is very helpful to shoot over a chronograph. These things are cheap enough now that there is little reason not to have one.
When you reach what the book says is maximum velocity you should stop, regardless of what your load is compared to the book load. Pressure creates velocity, and if you are at the maximum velocity with your component combination, you must be very close to the maximum pressure.
When you are working up a load, and the velocity plateaus, you know that you have gone about as far as you should, and dropping back to the previous load should be considered maximum for that combination in that firearm. This is a particularly useful technique when you are loading a combination for which there is no published data available.
When you reach what the book says is maximum velocity you should stop, regardless of what your load is compared to the book load. Pressure creates velocity, and if you are at the maximum velocity with your component combination, you must be very close to the maximum pressure.
When you are working up a load, and the velocity plateaus, you know that you have gone about as far as you should, and dropping back to the previous load should be considered maximum for that combination in that firearm. This is a particularly useful technique when you are loading a combination for which there is no published data available.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
Guys, a little warning from a guy that's been there. Handgun rounds are much quicker to react than rifle rounds. What I mean to say is that if you see ANY pressure sign from a handgun round, consider yourself lucky, it's a lot closer to the kaboom threshold than you might think.
And obviously back OFF
And obviously back OFF
