price check on an Enfield P14

slushee

slushee

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Okay, so I have the option of buying an enfield pattern 14 (Remington, NOT Remington Eddystone or Winchester).

I have learned that the rifle was designed just prior to WWI as the P13, but then retooled to .303 and re-designated the p14 at the onset of the war. Manufactured in the US by three factories, the Remington Eddystones were brittle, and Winchesters were finicky, so out of the three, its good that is it the Remington. Also, they were more accurate then the #3 Enfields of that period but still only ended up either as scoped sniper rifles or issued to the homeguardsmen. Coincidentally, when the US entered the war, 2/3's of them were issued M17's (the P14 in 30-06).

I have been told the bore is good and in an overall good condition, with an asking price of $200 .. Will I regret this purchase?

Thanks for your advice.. I'm a little unsure if I'd be happy with the gun honestly. But for $200 and being an accurate design in a good caliber .. hard to say no .. ya know?
 
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$200 is decent for a good condition rifle. Make sure you know what NRA "good" is before you buy it so there is no confusion. Get pics if you can.
P14's are great rifles. I prefer the M1917's though.
 
slushee said:
Okay, so I have the option of buying an enfield pattern 14 (Remington, NOT Remington Eddystone or Winchester).

I have learned that the rifle was designed just prior to WWI as the P13, but then retooled to .303 and re-designated the p14 at the onset of the war. Manufactured in the US by three factories, the Remington Eddystones were brittle, and Winchesters were finicky, so out of the three, its good that is it the Remington. Also, they were more accurate then the #3 Enfields of that period but still only ended up either as scoped sniper rifles or issued to the homeguardsmen. Coincidentally, when the US entered the war, 2/3's of them were issued M17's (the P14 in 30-06).

I have been told the bore is good and in an overall good condition, with an asking price of $200 .. Will I regret this purchase?

Thanks for your advice.. I'm a little unsure if I'd be happy with the gun honestly. But for $200 and being an accurate design in a good caliber .. hard to say no .. ya know?
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Actually Winchester was the best out of the 3 war time company IMHO

Winchester weren't finicky, Just that their parts were a wee bit different then the other 2 companies.

People will say that Winchester were a wee bit more accurate.
 
A good P14 is easily worth $200. They are really a Mauser designed for a cartridge much more powerfull than a .303. I have two, one in .303 and one in 7mm Rem Mag, it's my long range rifle. They are tack drivers once tweaked.
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RobertMcC said:
Actually Winchester was the best out of the 3 war time company IMHO

Winchester weren't finicky, Just that their parts were a wee bit different then the other 2 companies.

People will say that Winchester were a wee bit more accurate.
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LOL .. I guess I was being lazy with my description but yes, you are absolutly right though, Winchester was determined to keep their own tolerances on their parts, which made it difficult to interchange parts between rifles. I was way more concerned about getting an Eddystone as I have read some people are able to break parts of metal off with a screwdriver (why they would even try is beyond me).

So If i were to buy this rifle, and drop a 3-9x40 scope on it, I'd have myself a really decent hunting rifle? How does this rifle's accuracy stack up to other long distance rifles? (bear in mind i have no frame of referance for this rifles accuracy)
 
I've never heard of the Brittle issue with an Eddystone or had an issue with a Eddystone P-14 or P-17? Fill me in here?
 
slushee said:
LOL .. I guess I was being lazy with my description but yes, you are absolutly right though, Winchester was determined to keep their own tolerances on their parts, which made it difficult to interchange parts between rifles. I was way more concerned about getting an Eddystone as I have read some people are able to break parts of metal off with a screwdriver (why they would even try is beyond me).

So If i were to buy this rifle, and drop a 3-9x40 scope on it, I'd have myself a really decent hunting rifle? How does this rifle's accuracy stack up to other long distance rifles? (bear in mind i have no frame of referance for this rifles accuracy)
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Eddystone aren't as bad as you think. I owned 2 ( Sporter and Mil Surp ) also owned 2 Winchesters P14's. Eddystone's I wouldn't go make them some super MAGNUM cal or hang a 30" tube off them. Hunting Rig they wouldn't be bad for, Most people thats what they use them for, with a shorter cut down barrel, stock and scope.

Problem with P14 is the metal is super strong. So if you wanted a mount there is the non drill and tap method ( Rear Sight ) OR grinding off the sight ears and mounting a base.

Winchester is the best for custom rigs. I want to put a nice wooden stock on it.

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http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_1_53/ai_n16866650/pg_2

I read this article and a few others opinions on web forums .. they seem'ed to think it was an issue to be watched for. Thanks for clearing this up a little as not being as big a deal as I initially thought.

Could you explain the non drill and tap method? As this is probably the way I would end up going if I bought this rifle.

EDIT - ah seems they are just bolt on type weaver .. etc ...I think you all have convinced me this to be a good purchase :) Thanks for all the info!
 
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slushee said:
How does this rifle's accuracy stack up to other long distance rifles?
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A P14 with a floated as new barrel and properly bedded action is a minute of angle rifle with perfect loads. A worn out P14 with crap ammo is a crap rifle, but it has the potential to be a precision rifle with a bit of work and perfect ammo.
 
slushee said:
I have been told the bore is good and in an overall good condition, with an asking price of $200 .. Will I regret this purchase?
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As Hitzy said, make sure you know what NRA condition 'good' means. If the bore is worn or pitted (there may be pitting hiding under years of fouling in the bore), then I wouldn't bother with the P-14, as 'new' surplus barrels are next to impossible to come by.

Wait out for a nice P-14 with a nice bore, and you won't look back. I own three (one of each make), and I'm glad I do. They are very underrated rifles.

Most 'very-good' to 'excellent' examples go for anywhere between $300 and $400, and if you want the volley sights on a nice rifle... add a little more.
 
The brittle eddystone rumor came from gunsmiths while trying to rebarrel. The barrels are torqued on very tight, and I guess a few recevier rings broke while gunsmith was jumping up and down on the barrel wrench.
Eddystone have been turned into 1000's of sporter magnums with no catestophic effects. The trick was to make a releif cut in the barrel before attempting to remove it. I have a 5### ERA someone set up for target shooting. Other then the bubba'd front sight that can easily be replaced, and the M17 stock it has been glass bedded into, she is all there and all ERA p14.
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I picked up my Eddystone P-14 about 6 years ago. The smith I took it to was extremely impressed called a couple others and they were equally impressed with it's condition too. The guy told me he had an American buyer and would give me 500$ for it right there. I kept it:slap:. I only paid 50$ and the old guy selling it included 2 boxes of ammo, a sling and a case. Not bad for a guy's first rifle!!!!:D
 
I have both a P-14 & a P-17, the quality is excellent. Might I suggest you read "Hatchers Notebook", one of the finest reference works on rifle design and manufacture during the first half of the 20th century.
 
6, two of each make, 3 with PH sights and three standard. They all have the dial sight and I have the rear volley sights for each if I want to remove the target sights. plus one M1917, but with a canadian property mark.

Now as to the brittleness:
Unlike other rifles, the P14 and M1917 barrels were installed by MACHINERY NOT by guys using barrel wrenches. This made them EXTREMELY tight. The only proper way to remove the barrels is to stick the barreled action in a lathe and make a relief cut where the barrel joins the reciever.
Failure to do so, puts a lot of stress on the reciever and can cause a crack.
This was found when the rifles were rebarreled by armourers for the second go round with the germans. The workers just used a LONGER cheater bar on the barrel wrench with predictable results.
If it has the original barrel, there will be no crack.

Oh by the way possibly I missed it, but I don't remember a pic of the rifle you were looking at.
If it's as it left the factory, $200 would cause me to grip the rifle tightly in one hand while reaching for my wallet with the other.:D
 
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