Price check on some custom rifles

rf2

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Hi, I'm interested in getting into longer range target shooting. and I've found a few custom guns that are interesting.

I really have no idea what they are worth though, so I'm finding it difficult to judge if I should pick one up or move along to something else.
Could someone on here give me some ball park prices for the following set-ups? All are built by a reputable gunsmith

Set-up 1
.308 Improved
M96 Swedish Mauser action, with ####-on-open conversion.
Has:
- Timney Match Trigger, with thumb safety.
- Turned down and relieved bolt handle
- 26" Douglas, Stainless Steel Heavy Match Barrel #5 profile, straight taper
- McMillan Laminated Monte Carlo Stock, with raised cheek piece
- KICK EEZ Butt pad
- Older Bausch & Lomb 6x to 24x BALVAR adjustable scope, with adjustable objective. 50mm Objective

Set-up 2
.22-250 Improved. - rifle is unfinished and never fired
Built on a Winchester 22-250 Varmint Rifle action.
- 26" Douglas Stainless Steel Heavy Match Barrel. #5 profile, straight taper.
- Drilled and tapped for scope bases
- McMillan Laminated Monte Carlo Stock, with raised cheek piece.
- Needs the stock finished, and a butt pad installed.

Set-up 3
.257 Roberts Improved. - rifle is unfinished and never fired
Built on a 98K German Mauser action.
- Timney Match Trigger, with thumb safety.
- Turned down and relieved bolt handle
- ####-on-open conversion
- Thumb safety
- 26" Douglas deep blued Chrome Moly Match Barrel. #6 profile, straight taper.
- McMillan Laminated Monte Carlo Stock, with raised cheek piece.
- Scope bases installed
- Needs the stock finished, and a butt pad installed.

Finally, of these, which would be the best caliber/set-up for someone starting out in long range target shooting. I'd like something that would allow me to shoot higher volumes so that I can practice my shooting skills without developing a flinch. I have a few hunting guns that kick a lot, and I find that after a long session at the range, my shoulder hurts so much that I start to flinch. Also, I don't reload, so ammo cost is important.

Thanks,
rf2
 
If you don't reload NONE of the above as all the calibers you listed are wildcats, meaning there is no such thing as factory ammo for these being as they are "improved"

The other problem is that McMillan does NOT make laminated wood stocks, never have. They were 1 of the pioneers in fiberglass, so someone has their wires crossed in the descriptions.

Your best bet would be to learn on something like a Remington 700 heavy barrel in 308 and once the barrel is worn out have it replaced with a match barrel. By then your skill level will justify it, you will know what you really want for a stock and you will still have a great platform to build from

Long range training can be done with smaller calibers like 223 that is cheap to shoot but are harder to master at ranges beyond 600 yards. The wind is the hardest thing to dope, so a heavier higher BC bullet is helpful in getting out there, so for all round cost and ease of learning 308 would get my vote.
 
If you don't reload NONE of the above as all the calibers you listed are wildcats, meaning there is no such thing as factory ammo for these being as they are "improved"

The other problem is that McMillan does NOT make laminated wood stocks, never have. They were 1 of the pioneers in fiberglass, so someone has their wires crossed in the descriptions.

Your best bet would be to learn on something like a Remington 700 heavy barrel in 308 and once the barrel is worn out have it replaced with a match barrel. By then your skill level will justify it, you will know what you really want for a stock and you will still have a great platform to build from

Long range training can be done with smaller calibers like 223 that is cheap to shoot but are harder to master at ranges beyond 600 yards. The wind is the hardest thing to dope, so a heavier higher BC bullet is helpful in getting out there, so for all round cost and ease of learning 308 would get my vote.

Thanks for the info. I've read and was told that off-the-shelf ammo can be used in place of the "improved" version of the caliber. Is this not the case?
 
Thanks for the info. I've read and was told that off-the-shelf ammo can be used in place of the "improved" version of the caliber. Is this not the case?

Yes technically you can fire non-improved rounds in an improved chamber but why would you want that when you can just get a solid precision rifle in the appropriate round that you want?

ATR is giving you some great advice.
 
Thanks for the info. I've read and was told that off-the-shelf ammo can be used in place of the "improved" version of the caliber. Is this not the case?

This is true, the parent cartridge CAN be used but it is not really practical for the most part unless you are getting the above mentioned rifles nearly for free.
If you plan to shoot much plan to reload. Better ammo at 1/2 the cost even once you figure in the cost of the reloading gear.
 
Yes technically you can fire non-improved rounds in an improved chamber but why would you want that when you can just get a solid precision rifle in the appropriate round that you want?

ATR is giving you some great advice.

Yes, it's true that if I was having a rifle built, that I could select whatever caliber that I wanted. The thing is that the set-ups that I listed above are available to me for what seems to be a very reasonable price (for someone who is new to target shooting). I'm trying to verify if the prices that the guy is asking are indeed reasonable.

This would be a first target rifle, and my main goal would be to improve my shooting skills for the purpose of hunting. I could use my main hunting rifle for practicing, but because of the pretty big recoil (it's a 30-06), I can't comfortably put more than 20 or so rounds through it and still get acceptable accuracy. Also, I understand that target barrels are much more durable, so I could fire quite a lot of rounds without really worrying about the barrel too much. If, after using one of these rifles mentioned above, I find that I enjoy target shooting just for the purpose of shooting, I could then look for a specific caliber.
 
This is true, the parent cartridge CAN be used but it is not really practical for the most part unless you are getting the above mentioned rifles nearly for free.
If you plan to shoot much plan to reload. Better ammo at 1/2 the cost even once you figure in the cost of the reloading gear.

As I said, I don't know much about the price of custom rifles, but the ones I listed seem to be very reasonably priced. I guess the seller just wants to get rid of the rifles for whatever reason. If I pick one up and find that I enjoy target shooting a lot, I would start looking into reloading.

About the .308 caliber you recommended, I understand that the ballistics are quite similar to those of the .30-06. If that's the case, how does the recoil compare to that of the .30-06? I know the .308 cartridge is a bit smaller than that of the .30-06, so I don't really understand why the ballistics are similar. Is the bullet that different?
 
Since you have not provided any of the asking prices of the rifles in question it's difficult to tell you whether they are indeed reasonable. Considering that one can buy a used Rem 700 SPS in .308 for between $500-$600 they would have to be priced pretty well to consider them.
 
Pass up the wildcat chambered mauser & win push feed customs.

Pick up a 1:9" twist .223 chambered Rem 700,stock it,glass it,replace the trigger group & shoot . shoot . shoot.
The other option,as mentioned would be a 308 chambering,but your first response/question regarded recoil compared to a 30-06-install a weed burner to the muzzle.

The caliber,action,barrel,scope won't drive/dope itself-the trigger actuator calls the hits.
 
Since you have not provided any of the asking prices of the rifles in question it's difficult to tell you whether they are indeed reasonable. Considering that one can buy a used Rem 700 SPS in .308 for between $500-$600 they would have to be priced pretty well to consider them.

So how about $350 for each of the unfinished guns (.22-250 improved and .257 Roberts improved) and $525 for the .308 improved with older scope? Are these reasonable prices for a newbie target shooter's first target rifle? I would think the parts alone would be worth more than that, but I'm new to this. I know that compared to my Win Model 70 stainless steel in .30-06, these seem like a steal.
 
Hi guys,
My thread's getting cold, but I'd still like and answer if possible.
Does $350 for each of the unfinished guns (.22-250 improved and .257 Roberts improved) or $525 for the .308 improved sound reasonable? The .22-250 and the .257 Roberts improved have never been fired.
 
It all depends on what sort of barrels they have on them and what sort of condition they are in.

Seriously, the rifle is the cheapest pat of precision shooting. The 257AI and the 22-250AI will wear out barrels VERY fast. In as little as 1000 rounds or less. The Mauser rifle is likely ok, but again, it depends of the barrel, the number of rounds and the quality. FYI, Mauser actions are not a popular choice for precision shooters. They have many shortcomings.

If you do not reload, don't bother. You will not get the accuracy you are likely hoping for anyway. You'd be firther ahead to get a factory rifle, invest in relaoding equipment, practice practice practice.

Precision shooting requires a precise shooter, precise ammo and a precise firearm. Your result will only be as good as the weakest of these three.
 
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