I'm going to be loading for a savage FV in .308. I have Norma brass to load for it. What I was wondering from anyone with experience does using a primer pocket uniformer on the brass make an appreciable difference for this type of rifle. The goal is to shoot under 1moa
Primer pockets
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gushulak
CGN frequent flyer
I use a primer tool to deburr all my .308 brass. Side by side, you will not really notice a case that has been primer prepped, but that doesn't stop all of us from doing it. Every little bit helps. Norma brass is held to higher standards than other brass and shouldn't need it, but its nice to get all the cases as uniform as possible to eliminate any case related issues when trying to shrink your groups.
chappy said:
I think that the pockets are punched like the others, only the flash hole is drilled instead of punched. It is good brass as long as you are working below the edge otherwise it will show it's soft side. Otherwise good stuff.
bigbull
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Let's talk about the type of shooting you will be doing. If you restrict yourself to the 100 yard game you may not see an improvment by uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes. If you shoot over a chronograph, or if if you intend to shoot beyond 300 meters you will want to try to achieve single digit variations in round to round velocity. It is often said that European brass is better than American brass due to the fact that the case heads are machined and the flash holes are drilled, however from time to time you might come across poor lots of Euro-brass, or very good lots of American brass.
Uniforming primer pockets and flash holes are only one step of many that lead to super consistant ammo, but if you skip one step towards this goal it may lessen the contributions of the steps you do follow. For example, if you uniform your primer pockets and flasholes but do not cull cases which are out of spec with regards to weight or neck wall thickness it is unlikely that the attention to the primer pockets will benefit you.
When you examine your cases you will see that there is a burr inside the case on one side or the other of the flash hole. This is a sign that the flash hole has been punched. I uniform all the flash holes for all my center fire rifle ammo regardless of whether it it for hunting or target ammo. I just think I get a better product that way, and it only takes a moment per case....the flashole only need attention once in it's life, and I use the primer pocket uniformer to clean the carbon from the primer pocket prior to repriming. Because the primer pocket uniforming tool indexes on a built in shoulder you cannot cut the primer pocket too deeply. You may come across brass...very often Winchester, which will not cut across the entire surface of the primer pocket due to the irregular surface left at the time of manufacture.
If you strive you make the best ammo you can - it will make you a more confident shooter....if there is a flyer you will know why.
Uniforming primer pockets and flash holes are only one step of many that lead to super consistant ammo, but if you skip one step towards this goal it may lessen the contributions of the steps you do follow. For example, if you uniform your primer pockets and flasholes but do not cull cases which are out of spec with regards to weight or neck wall thickness it is unlikely that the attention to the primer pockets will benefit you.
When you examine your cases you will see that there is a burr inside the case on one side or the other of the flash hole. This is a sign that the flash hole has been punched. I uniform all the flash holes for all my center fire rifle ammo regardless of whether it it for hunting or target ammo. I just think I get a better product that way, and it only takes a moment per case....the flashole only need attention once in it's life, and I use the primer pocket uniformer to clean the carbon from the primer pocket prior to repriming. Because the primer pocket uniforming tool indexes on a built in shoulder you cannot cut the primer pocket too deeply. You may come across brass...very often Winchester, which will not cut across the entire surface of the primer pocket due to the irregular surface left at the time of manufacture.
If you strive you make the best ammo you can - it will make you a more confident shooter....if there is a flyer you will know why.
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- Location
- Calgary, AB
When escalating to this level of detail, one should use benchrest or match grade primers as opposed to standard primers, the extra cost in these primers is due to more attention to loading a smaller and more uniform priming charge.
Last year I switched from standard to match primers and deburred flash holes (Winchester brass) in my .308 tactical rifle (changed nothing else) and that shrunk my 100 yd group size from 3/4" to 1/2". Ignition consistency is primary in the group size game. I throw all my powder charges, and I have yet to optimize the charge weight for this combo.......next season.
Last year I switched from standard to match primers and deburred flash holes (Winchester brass) in my .308 tactical rifle (changed nothing else) and that shrunk my 100 yd group size from 3/4" to 1/2". Ignition consistency is primary in the group size game. I throw all my powder charges, and I have yet to optimize the charge weight for this combo.......next season.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
thecollector said:
Collector -
Seeing that you meter all your match powder, I am curious about what powder you burn. I've loaded H-380 and it meters like water - very consistant, but I'm wondering if you meter stick powder as well?
Stick powders don't meter very well, you're better off weighing each charge when using them. - dan
- Location
- Calgary, AB
Boomer said:
Two years ago I switched from extruded powders (eg. IMR 4064) to ball powders because of the metering difficulties with sticks; I am now using WW-748 which meters/throws smooth and consistent. The 748 has demonstrated to be a fine selection for my .22 PPC and .308 Win tack drivers. The .308 load I refered to earlier is: Sierra 168 gr Matchking, a throwen 44 gr of WW-748, Federal Match primer in Winchester brass with deburred flash hole. The launcher is a single shot Omark Sportco target rifle dressed in tactical mode.
The bench rest boys and sites stress the importance of ignition CONSISTANCY as a major precision parameter; hence all the pocket, hole, and match grade igniters. It made an impressive improvement for the minimal extra effort and expense for mysef. Again, this is what all the short, fat, benchrest cases and small flash holes are about, ignition and burn optimization.
http://www.snipersparadise.com/tsmag/sept03/sept03_1.htm
It's easy to do, you only have to do it once, and then you can use the tool to clean the crud out of the pockets when you reload.
You'd be surprised by the variation in Lapua brass primer pockets. Some are just touched by the tool, others reamed out a bit.
Also, the tool squares-up the pocket, which makes it easier to feel when the primer is seated. Ignition is one of the key parts of uniform ammo.
However, you can certainly shoot sub-MOA without doing this. Think of it as insurance.
It's easy to do, you only have to do it once, and then you can use the tool to clean the crud out of the pockets when you reload.
You'd be surprised by the variation in Lapua brass primer pockets. Some are just touched by the tool, others reamed out a bit.
Also, the tool squares-up the pocket, which makes it easier to feel when the primer is seated. Ignition is one of the key parts of uniform ammo.
However, you can certainly shoot sub-MOA without doing this. Think of it as insurance.
