"Straight back" is a great idea. But they can actually see if they are doing this by dry firing and watching the sights to see if they jump to either side when the hammer or striker breaks. When the tension jumps as these things occur the gun will react if they are compensating in any way. It's one thing to tell them that and have them chant the mantra. It's another to actually DO the thing.
Llywelyn, if you think you're slapping the trigger then likely you are. For folks that I've helped I tell them to stop actually pulling the trigger. Instead I tell them to build pressure and let the trigger move or not as it will. Likely as you build pressure you'll feel the trigger move then stop then move again as it goes through the various stages in activating all the internals. The key is to slowly and evenly build up the pressure until it gets to where it goes BANG!
But don't stop there. Keep pulling until it's at the end of the travel. And HOLD it there until the recoil is done. Only once the gun settles back down should you ease up with the same sort of control on the pressure on that trigger.
By focusing on this even and slower pressure build and release you'll avoid slapping at the trigger. It'll also avoid upsetting your grip. If you jerk your trigger finger it's impossible for that nervous impulse to not move the rest of your hands and the gun with it. A trigger is not a mouse button.
On the other had don't do this with glacial slowness either. Work on building the pressure at first so you reach the point of the trigger reaching the rear travel limit after about roughly a second of smooth pressure buildup. Try this first with dry firing so you develop a bit of the feel for moving the trigger THROUGH the hammer or striker break and to the rear travel limit. Do about 20 reps of this to cement it in your mind.
Now try shooting a mag or two at this roughly one second pressure build. Remember, the trigger should be still at the rear limit as the gun finishes recovering from the recoil. You want to learn to commit to a FULL travel stroke. Still holding the trigger fully back confirms that you achieved that commitment.
As you ease off the pressure with the same sort of slow control you'll feel a little click in the trigger travel. That's the reset point. At that point you can reverse the pressure and begin building pressure to move the trigger back to the rear limit again. During dry firing you can simulate this by racking the slide after the hammer/slider drop while holding the trigger back before beginning the release.
Once you're doing well with this drill at around a one second build for a full trigger pull and around a half second for the half pull from the reset point then speed up the pressure build to about a half second for the full pull and a quarter second for the reset and back pull. But work on conciously building pressure instead of jerking in any way.
Someone showed me how you can practice this trigger finger pressure build by pressing against the thumb of your other hand repeatedly. All in all not a bad first step since you can feel for a smooth pressure build and the repititions will build up some muscle memory.
Llywelyn, if you think you're slapping the trigger then likely you are. For folks that I've helped I tell them to stop actually pulling the trigger. Instead I tell them to build pressure and let the trigger move or not as it will. Likely as you build pressure you'll feel the trigger move then stop then move again as it goes through the various stages in activating all the internals. The key is to slowly and evenly build up the pressure until it gets to where it goes BANG!
But don't stop there. Keep pulling until it's at the end of the travel. And HOLD it there until the recoil is done. Only once the gun settles back down should you ease up with the same sort of control on the pressure on that trigger.
By focusing on this even and slower pressure build and release you'll avoid slapping at the trigger. It'll also avoid upsetting your grip. If you jerk your trigger finger it's impossible for that nervous impulse to not move the rest of your hands and the gun with it. A trigger is not a mouse button.
On the other had don't do this with glacial slowness either. Work on building the pressure at first so you reach the point of the trigger reaching the rear travel limit after about roughly a second of smooth pressure buildup. Try this first with dry firing so you develop a bit of the feel for moving the trigger THROUGH the hammer or striker break and to the rear travel limit. Do about 20 reps of this to cement it in your mind.
Now try shooting a mag or two at this roughly one second pressure build. Remember, the trigger should be still at the rear limit as the gun finishes recovering from the recoil. You want to learn to commit to a FULL travel stroke. Still holding the trigger fully back confirms that you achieved that commitment.
As you ease off the pressure with the same sort of slow control you'll feel a little click in the trigger travel. That's the reset point. At that point you can reverse the pressure and begin building pressure to move the trigger back to the rear limit again. During dry firing you can simulate this by racking the slide after the hammer/slider drop while holding the trigger back before beginning the release.
Once you're doing well with this drill at around a one second build for a full trigger pull and around a half second for the half pull from the reset point then speed up the pressure build to about a half second for the full pull and a quarter second for the reset and back pull. But work on conciously building pressure instead of jerking in any way.
Someone showed me how you can practice this trigger finger pressure build by pressing against the thumb of your other hand repeatedly. All in all not a bad first step since you can feel for a smooth pressure build and the repititions will build up some muscle memory.
