Progress on the Ugartechea side lock

Grouse Man

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I've begun the cleanup process on a Ugartechea side lock shotgun, and wanted to post some pictures for all interested. Surprisingly, there are very few pictures of sidelock internals around the net, so hopefully this will be helpful to many. Specs: 12 ga, built 1964, 27" barrels, choked Mod and Full (0.024" and 0.043"), 70mm chambers.

If you know this gun's history, it lead an abused life to some extent. I call it "Prince Phillip's Land Rover gun". With some trepidation upon initial inspection, my fears of real damage went unfounded. Everything appears to be cosmetic in nature only. The action is tight, barrels ring like bells and are straight & undented, and it mounts beautifully. No screw heads were buggered, and no cracks in the wood.

So after the locks were removed, I found no corrosion on the works, only a crust of very dried lube. The picture doesn't do it justice, it's polished like jewellry. It uses flat springs rather than coil, very British. Double intercepting sears for safety.

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The lock plate has some beautiful engraving on it, and although the colours are fading, the metal is developing a beautiful patina.

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Here's where the lock sits. You can see the two screw holes which anchor the lock plate, and the shiny cocking levers. I'm afraid to try to take the gun down further than this to refinish it, knowing what I know about how much torque can be on the pins holding the stock & action together. The trigger guard is also refusing to unscrew as it should.

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The fore end came apart after several consultations about it's construction. It appears that there can be several very different methods of assembling an Anson-style latch fore end. Remove the single visible screw, unscrew the latch rod, which exposes a hidden screw threaded into the tip cover plate. Then just tap it out.

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The selective ejectors also showed high polish, no corrosion, just gummed up old lube. Soaking in Ed's Red.

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That's progress so far. The wood is being cleaned of the old finish and the barrels are having rust spots removed. I'm not attempting a full restoration, just a thorough cleanup, maybe some bluing touchups, and refinish the wood - I don't even plan on dealing with the little dents and gouges. But this should turn out lovely.
 
You should take all the parts off the action and lockplates then boil the action ( to remove any old coating that might have been present ) then laquer it with diluted metal laquer to protect the cch.
To undo the breechpin there is only one secret and that's to get a properly fitted screwdriver and support the gun properly, if it doesn't budge a tap with a brass punch on the screwhead might be in order. It is rare that I need to take a brace to it, then again I have a strong hand.
If you damage a pin (screw) you can always fireblue it or nitre blue it with some potassium nitrate melted over a fire.
 
ArnoldB, maybe you can confirm this. The trigger guard is just screwed into the action at the front, correct? It's in there tighter than I would have expected. I'm thinking that the dried and hard-caked grease that is visible inside the action, has worked it's way into the trigger guard screw, and the screw through the underside of the action. That stuff is damned hard to remove even when visible; it's probably acting like Loctite right now on any threads. Perhaps I should just let it stay soaking for now with G96 or CLP for a year, and maybe shooting will help it loosen.
 
Yes just screwed in, some guns you won't be able to take the trigger guard off as the triggers will prevent it from swivelling round even on safe off ,you have to take the action of the wood, that's about it.
 
Grouse Man; Not sure about that particular shot gun but I have run across 3 different methods of attaching the trigger guard.
1. front end screws into place- remove rear screws and rotate until unscrewed
2. front end needs a 90 degree rotation and then lifts straight out- has two interuppted lugs like a rifle bolt
3. front end has a hook. Remove rear screws and tilt rear of guard up and lift free.

Once you do get it free you can consider removing the trigger plate and the stock should slide of the top tang to the back. Some of them have a screw through the trigger plate which fits into the extension coming down from the top lever. There may be a massive V-spring which operates off a cam on the top lever extension. With the screw removed the top lever extension gets pushed sideways by the spring and you can't get the screw back through the trigger plate and into the extension again. Some that I have worked on can be realligned by forcing the top lever to the left to re-tension the spring and get things alligned so you can get the screw back in. It will test your patience if you strip it this far but it is a necessity if you are doing major wood re-finish.

It is likely yours trigger guard is screwed in and congealed oil can glue things up pretty tight but check the other methods.
 
Grouse man
Those locks look way better than I would have expected, most modern guns have pretty crappy locks. They had a look at a few english guns before they built that gun. It looks a though you have a very well made shotgun congrats!
 
Coming along nicely, Grouseman. Post some more pics when you get to the next "level". I've got a few projects on the go this winter, myself. So, I know how you have to stop, take a step back, and plot the best way forward, every once in a while. Otherwise, you may forge ahead a little too hastily and regret it later.

In any event, take your time, but do post some pics when you reach the next stage of disassembly or refinishing.
 
Great to see the old Uggie on the way back to life. I admire people with the patience and skill to do that kind of work. Well done.
 
I figured out it's weight last night. Barrels stamped 1,170 gms, fore end weighs 200 gms, action & butt weighed 1,525, total 2,895 gms or 6.4 pounds.

I probably won't add a pad. The butt is simply checkered but has two plugs inserted in the balance-adjusting holes drilled into the butt. Very well done, I'd rather not lose that nice work.
 
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