Project Build: .308 Full Length M1 Garand

[tharkhold]

Hello,

This was a project (medium/long term) of building an full length M1 Garand in .308 from the ground up. I like old guns that have history! Putting this here as a resource for others, for prices, parts, etc.

I added prices for everything to compare building a Garand vs buying a complete rifle

What I have as of now:
M1 Receiver FKF/BMR: 70$
Rear NM Sight: 120$
Criterion .308 barrel + headspaced SA WW2 bolt: 794$+30$ship
Beat up stock: 115$
SA14 trigger group, Adjustable gas plug: 210$
Top rear handguard 30$
Misc parts: 405$

Running Total: 1784$

FYI: I was able to source pretty much everything on CGN. I purchased my NM rear sights from a retailer.

Regrets: not really... although I do wish I had an actual SA receiver since I really like to look of used metal.

Let's start!



Found this, which helps to cross out parts:

Receiver + sights

Got my 'new' mangled "Minh Ho" stock and brand new Criterion .308 barrel with headspaced WW2 bolt (thank you Nick @ Vulcan Gun Refinishing)

Just got me some more parts from 375$ for a friendly fellow CGNer!

All I need now is a trigger group, top handguard and adjustable gas block!

Just 'secured' an SA14 trigger and adjustable gas plug

All that's left is the upper handguard!

Finally over!

Now on to the next project.

Lighting test:

 

[tharkhold]

Now the difficult choice... Keep it, sell it to build another garand, or other rifle??

It's a pretty nice feeling to build one of these that works, and set it into the wild to be enjoyed!

 

[Kano]

Keep it and build another. DO something interesting!

 

[bearhunter]

So it begins.

OP, you have the bug. There is a certain thrill to building and shooting your personal firearms that just can't be felt when one is purchased off the shelf, used/new/custom built to your specs.

The learning curve takes away the "have to be a rocket scientist" attitude.

I remember doing such things in the "good ole days" and still have some of them. Things were much easier to obtain back then and a decent M1 T2 could be had for around $100, fresh from the US Navy. You just had to know the right Marine.

Those days are "mostly" long gone.

Putting a consistently reliable/accurate Garand T2 together is a very decent accomplishment, especially for a first attempt. Good on you.

That old stock is an eyesore but somehow suits the project.

Now you have to decide to branch out or become an M1 Garand guru.


TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019

 

[purple]

You have BMR 68. I have PB 68 which is one of the ex-Danish receivers with the welded on brackets for an IR night vision scope.

Used stocks can work out OK, but you need to watch for a rattle fit of the barreled action which is no good for accuracy and, in some cases, functioning. Over time the wood can become compressed in 2 critical areas. The rifle w/o the trigger housing assembly should show no fore and aft movement in the stock. If this exist it can be fixed by gluing in shims on the seating surfaces for the rear action legs. Also, there must be a tight fit when the trigger housing is installed. There should be felt resistance when the trigger guard is closed. If not, this can be fixed by glueing shims on the bottom surfaces of stock on both sides of the mag well. Tight stock fit is always good, even if you have to bop the trigger guard with a rubber mallet or a piece of 2x4 to get it locked.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

You have BMR 68. I have PB 68 which is one of the ex-Danish receivers with the welded on brackets for an IR night vision scope.

Used stocks can work out OK, but you need to watch for a rattle fit of the barreled action which is no good for accuracy and, in some cases, functioning. Over time the wood can become compressed in 2 critical areas. The rifle w/o the trigger housing assembly should show no fore and aft movement in the stock. If this exist it can be fixed by gluing in shims on the seating surfaces for the rear action legs. Also, there must be a tight fit when the trigger housing is installed. There should be felt resistance when the trigger guard is closed. If not, this can be fixed by glueing shims on the bottom surfaces of stock on both sides of the mag well. Tight stock fit is always good, even if you have to bop the trigger guard with a rubber mallet or a piece of 2x4 to get it locked.

Been a while, but SARCO used to have good deals on new Italian stocks. converted back to full length from the shortened version. Nice wood.

Grizz

 

[tharkhold]

Aug/Sept Update... my garand is short stroking with an ajdustable gas plug... will have to try it with the normal issued plug.

It's currently extracting rounds, but lack oomph to pick a new round and chamber it, and can't eject the clip when empty.

Edit: Using LC1 reloads from westermmetal

 

[can14]

$1700.00 in parts to build a great rifle. Finding all the parts will just
keep costing more. But it is worth doing, one can find additional parts to replace the ones you don't like.
In the end, you wi,l have a nice rifle